look ok for my first time anealling ?
Collapse
X
-
Looks good, how did you do yours? I have a way I do mine, but it is a little strange, I wait to do mine when I am going to cast bullets. I will dip the necks into the molten lead and if I hold it with my bare fingers by the base I can tell when they start to get hot, that way I can pull them out, tap them off then toss them into a small bucket of water that I use when casting to water quench my bullets.
Greg
-
-
this is the first time i have done this so only time will tell but i know i gut here local that has 30-40 on his...so it seems good laupa brass comes anealled already but they still need it redone at some point .some people dont do this at all. but with as precious as grendel brass is i figured it was worth a shot
Comment
-
-
I made this to ease annealing by hand. No need to rotate the case & it speeds up the process a bit. Now I just need to incorporate it into a machine like the new Giraud annealer.
dual torch.jpgNRA life, GOA life, SAF, and TSRA
"I ask, Sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people, except for a few public officials. To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."
George Mason, co-author, 2nd Amendment.
Comment
-
-
I chuck my rounds into one of those Lee case trimming lock studs and while spinning at low RPM, I hit the shoulder just below where the neck meets it with a tight focused, medium heat, torch tip. I watch the heat travel toward the mouth and stop when it gets there. FWIW, I do not anneal my Grendel brass, but I do anneal those miserable .25 WSSM cases before fire forming them up to .300 OSSM. Anyway, the lock stud works fine for my small scale jobs (<=50 cases). My experience has been that a broader, hot, swirl torch just heats everything so fast, it's hard to react in time to prevent over softening the necks, which what happens when I try to heat the neck and wait for the color line to move down to the shoulder. The necks having so much less mass than the shoulder area. Much easier to start in the middle and let it work backwards. I have a lead casting furnace and tried that, but wound up with a mess when some spots on the necks wanted to tin and others didn't. I've soldered for over 30 years and have a good feel for it. Just couldn't project that experience base upon hot dipping them. Perhaps a coat of solder mask would help, but then you'd have to clean that off after you were done.
Even if I weren't using it to anneal, I still like the look of txgunner00's opposing flame torch arrangement. Too cool!
Hoot
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by sneaky one View PostSo it's probably true - I posted a while back -that priv-p--wolf is probably the company, (according to the guy from A1 ammo, that I met this summer) making hornadys brass== good lorde.......here we go again.
Hoot
Comment
-
-
As far as I know, Hornady is producing their own brass, not contracting. Privi makes the Wolf brass, but I'm pretty confident that Hornady is producing their own.
IF Privi was making the brass, I can't imagine why they would continue to make large primer AND small primer brass.
Also, comparing the brass, the coloring is visibly different. Consistent across runs of Hornady, consistent across runs of Privi large primer, but not consistent between the two. They look like two slightly different recipes to me.Last edited by bwaites; 09-07-2011, 02:33 AM.
Comment
-
-
agreed
Originally posted by bwaites View PostAs far as I know, Hornady is producing their own brass, not contracting. Privi makes the Wolf brass, but I'm pretty confident that Hornady is producing their own.
IF Privi was making the brass, I can't imagine why they would continue to make large primer AND small primer brass.
Also, comparing the brass, the coloring is visibly different. Consistent across runs of Hornady, consistent across runs of Privi large primer, but not consistent between the two. They look like two slightly different recipes to me.
Comment
-
Comment