AA composite handguard weight question

[BlueOvalBruin]

How much does the AA rifle-length composite handguard weigh? I know G10 isn’t the lightest material out there but I’m hoping it’s less than a pound. I’ve been using JP handguards (about 1lb) but after I picked up a used clark custom .223 upper with a carbon fiber clark handguard (6 oz) I’m sold on light handguards. The clark handguard is glued to the barrel nut however so if you ever need to remove the barrel, the handguard will be indexed wrong after reinstallation. It seems like the AA handguard doesn’t have that problem.

[madcratebuilder]

I'm a fan of light hand guards and have looked at several different brands. While gluing a carbon fiber is probably the lightest setup I don't like the fact it can't be removed easily. I ended up with a MI SS series tube, it's aluminum, uses a proprietary barrel nut, you can mount individual short rails as needed. I'll weigh it next time I have it off.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/65Grendel/MIparts01.jpg

[Bill Alexander]

The Mk10+ which is our rifle length hand guard and which has threaded inserts for rail sections tips the scales at 0.58 lbs les the aluminum barrel nut

Bill Alexander

[warped]

The MK10+ is a really good FF tube, it does not transmit heat or cold and allows the use of railed sections.

Many times we like to use the railed sections but when not needed they are in the way or can be damaged.

I have not seen anything stronger or lighter than this FF tube.

I also like the fact that we do not need to use a rail for a sling point, use a 8-32 swivel stud and you are done.

[Goju]

I guess Bill answered the question; I also used a JP tube on my Grendel hunting set up and decided I did not want to live with 1) the very cold aluminum surface and 2) the potentially very noisy aluminum material. I did not want one of the new models with the rail attachment points so I got an XL length G10 tube for my carbine....It will work perfectly

[noone]

I run ventilated aluminum guards on almost all my rifles because of the heat transfer issue. When I got the G10 handguard from Alexander Arms, my first suspicion was that I would have problems with excessive heat on the handguard. I was really surprised that after a long string of rapid fire shooting, the G10 handguard simply didn't seem to transmit heat like the aluminum ones. I quickly discarded my initial idea about needing to ventilate the G10 handguard.

[Hoot]

I run ventilated aluminum guards on almost all my rifles because of the heat transfer issue. When I got the G10 handguard from Alexander Arms, my first suspicion was that I would have problems with excessive heat on the handguard. I was really surprised that after a long string of rapid fire shooting, the G10 handguard simply didn't seem to transmit heat like the aluminum ones. I quickly discarded my initial idea about needing to ventilate the G10 handguard.

Isn't that a double-edged sword though? If the handguard is not ventilated, nor warm to the touch, then is the heat in the covered part of the barrel not radiating efficiently?

Hoot

[warped]

Isn't that a double-edged sword though? If the handguard is not ventilated, nor warm to the touch, then is the heat in the covered part of the barrel not radiating efficiently?

Hoot

A G10 has holes in it, they are positioned so that as the heat escapes it does not interfere.

I have shot mine until the bbl was smoking and the G10 was comfortable.

[Hoot]

A G10 has holes in it, they are positioned so that as the heat escapes it does not interfere.

I have shot mine until the bbl was smoking and the G10 was comfortable.

Copy. My mind was on non-ventilated composite ones I've seen.

Hoot

[noone]

Maybe the handguard I have isn't G-10 then. It sure isn't aluminum, steel, or carbon fiber, I just presumed I had a non ventilated G-10 handguard. What non ventilated synthetic plastic like material does Alexander Arms use if mine isn't G-10? I have had it for about a year or year and a half.

The ventilated dark earth colored handguard shown in the photo above is very well done. Without the gas block showing, it gives the forend a really clean slick look.

[Bill Alexander]

It might be a non ventilated G10, we do occasionally sell them but generally people want vents or inserts so we rarely get asked.

On heat the gap between the barrel and the handguard is dominant in allowing the radiation and convection of heat. Vents if positioned correctly simply act to stop a heat haze running out of the upper front of the tube straight in front of the scope. This is of course a relative statement. Barrels are in effect a thermal mass which acts to absorb the heat from the inner surface. If the capacity is saturated or the input rate exceeds the ability to output heat energy, then ventilating to help with cooling is advantageous. This requirement is rare. 400F is not hot for steel even if it will sear the flesh from exposed parts that accidentally toouch the part. 650F becomes a minor problem but at these temperatures cannot be achieved within civilian weapon system.

Bill Alexander

[WillD]

The MI handguard pictured above has the optional trim ring. Can someone explain to me it's function? Is the barrel still free floated?

TIA, Will

[Brian]

Check out carbon arms they have a carbon tube that replaces the jp tube while retaining the jp barrel nut setup

[BlueOvalBruin]

Check out carbon arms they have a carbon tube that replaces the jp tube while retaining the jp barrel nut setup

I looked into that too, but with the JP and Firebirds you still have that heavy aluminum receiver extension and steel barrel nut. Their carbon tube rifle-length forearm assemblies are still 12oz vs the 16oz regular aluminum ones. The clark custom and DPMS ones (are they the same?) are 6oz total by comparison.

[AndrewX]

The MK10+ is a really good FF tube, it does not transmit heat or cold and allows the use of railed sections.

Many times we like to use the railed sections but when not needed they are in the way or can be damaged.

I have not seen anything stronger or lighter than this FF tube.

I also like the fact that we do not need to use a rail for a sling point, use a 8-32 swivel stud and you are done.

Warped -

I have an AA upper with a Mk10 tube incoming. All the swivel studs I've been able to find (Brownells & Midway) are 10-32. Any suggestions on finding the 8-32?

Thanks for any input.

[Variable]

Warped -

I have an AA upper with a Mk10 tube incoming. All the swivel studs I've been able to find (Brownells & Midway) are 10-32. Any suggestions on finding the 8-32?

Thanks for any input.
Warped has been AWOL for a good while, and I haven't been able to contact him.

This:http://www.midwayusa.com/product/944377/gear-sector-sopmod-quick-detach-sling-swivel-socket-kit-ar-15-steel-black may be adaptable to work nicely, depending on what you are wanting to do...

[AndrewX]

Thanks!

[Bill Alexander]

The insert thread size is 10-32, standard for Brownells, Midway and Birchwood-Casey studs.

I need to finish the 6 " rails and get with Impact Weapons Components to get accessories matched up. Also need a QD near the barrel nut.

[bwaites]

The insert thread size is 10-32, standard for Brownells, Midway and Birchwood-Casey studs.

I need to finish the 6 " rails and get with Impact Weapons Components to get accessories matched up. Also need a QD near the barrel nut.

Also need to get them in stock!!

Hurry up, hurry up!