Redding bushings, neck diameters

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  • Redding bushings, neck diameters

    Are you guys finding that as your AA brass gets older and more used, you have to use smaller bushings to maintain neck tension? I started at .289" a couple years ago but changed to .288 last Fall; This year my resized AA casings using 0.288 don't seem tight enough..... in fact bullets slide right into the resized neck with a little finger tension. now I've just changed to 0.287. Is this your experience?

    Also finding that I don't have to bump shoulders back that little extra bit by "camming" over a bit on my press.... the shoulder is just fine where it is without camming over; in fact when I do cam over on these the base of the casing is slightly lower than the minimum on my case gauge, plus I have just a small amount of neck length than the case gauge is happy with.

    Also, an embarassing question....... Shouldn't the outside neck diamater of a resized casing equal the size of the bushing? If the answer is yes I have an issue somewhere.....

    Thank you
  • LR1955
    Super Moderator
    • Mar 2011
    • 3355

    #2
    Originally posted by mpstan View Post
    Are you guys finding that as your AA brass gets older and more used, you have to use smaller bushings to maintain neck tension? I started at .289" a couple years ago but changed to .288 last Fall; This year my resized AA casings using 0.288 don't seem tight enough..... in fact bullets slide right into the resized neck with a little finger tension. now I've just changed to 0.287. Is this your experience?

    Also finding that I don't have to bump shoulders back that little extra bit by "camming" over a bit on my press.... the shoulder is just fine where it is without camming over; in fact when I do cam over on these the base of the casing is slightly lower than the minimum on my case gauge, plus I have just a small amount of neck length than the case gauge is happy with.

    Also, an embarassing question....... Shouldn't the outside neck diamater of a resized casing equal the size of the bushing? If the answer is yes I have an issue somewhere.....

    Thank you
    Stan:

    I started with a .288 bushing and it wasn't tight enough for new brass so I went to a .286 for the Lapua / AA / Hornady brass and haven't needed to go smaller. I use the .284 for the Wolf brass. Sometimes those bushings aren't perfect and sometimes they wear out.

    Bottom line is that if what you are doing works, you are doing the right thing.

    LR55

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah I don't have the Redding that uses bushings, I just have the one I got through AA and it has been working really well.

      I love that die, it seems so much better than my Hornady or RCBS dies.

      Sometimes things just work really well and I can live with that.

      I just wish everything else in life were the same way, like my Audi A6 Quattro, I wish I could get re-manufactured heads for far less than $1600.

      I realize there are 4 cams and 30 valves though.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by mpstan View Post
        Are you guys finding that as your AA brass gets older and more used, you have to use smaller bushings to maintain neck tension?
        I haven't shot mine enough to experience this personally, but it sounds like you're describing work hardening/loss of elasticity of the neck. Annealing might bring them back to spec without needing different bushings?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by mpstan View Post
          Are you guys finding that as your AA brass gets older and more used, you have to use smaller bushings to maintain neck tension? I started at .289" a couple years ago but changed to .288 last Fall; This year my resized AA casings using 0.288 don't seem tight enough..... in fact bullets slide right into the resized neck with a little finger tension. now I've just changed to 0.287. Is this your experience?

          Also finding that I don't have to bump shoulders back that little extra bit by "camming" over a bit on my press.... the shoulder is just fine where it is without camming over; in fact when I do cam over on these the base of the casing is slightly lower than the minimum on my case gauge, plus I have just a small amount of neck length than the case gauge is happy with.

          Also, an embarassing question....... Shouldn't the outside neck diamater of a resized casing equal the size of the bushing? If the answer is yes I have an issue somewhere.....

          Thank you
          What you are seeing is the brass refusing to stay squeezed down by the bushing and springing back more. The tighter bushing overcomes the hard springiness. A dead soft neck will stay closer to the size you pick and won't have that issue.

          The sized neck is probably going to be a tad bigger than that bushing you just went down to. A 0.287 bushing will probably come out just around 0.2875.

          Like was mentioned annealing is the best way to get it soft again. You will extend your brass life somewhat with that operation.

          The shoulders are getting hard and they are not moving quite as much as before so you aren't having to shove them back as much. They will slowly grow on you though and you will have to resort to cranking that die down for a FL size of the case. YMMV

          Greg

          Comment


          • #6
            A quick search provided two good articles on annealing and a link to a cheap but effective Hornady system. It looks pretty easy, but reading the 6mmbr article makes you realize that it is easy to screw up. It can be dangerous if done without learning a little about the makeup of the brass in a cartrige and how overheating the wrong parts can lead to catostrophic failure. Still the Hornady meathod looks pretty easy.
            6mmBR.com is the best guide for 6mm BR Benchrest precision shooting, complete with 6BR FAQ, Reloading Data, Shooter Message Boards, Reader Polls, and Photo Gallery. Match event calendar and rifle competition accuracy training tips. Equipment reviews (.243 bullets, 30BR cartridge, 6mm Norma Improved, gun barrels, powders, primers, gunstocks, dies), accurizing, 1000yd ranges, ballistics, component sales, tools, gunsmiths. Articles archive for reloading, marksmanship, gunsmithing, and varminting.


            Comment

            • sneaky one
              Chieftain
              • Mar 2011
              • 3077

              #7
              Steel, as always- Great info,, but after 10-20 reload cycles- Isn't it better and otherwise, safer, less tedious and more cost effective to buy some new brass? That's my plan to minimize my chores! I'm too busy for annealing., I thought about doing that , I realize it's a way cool proccess yet time consuming,. , so are you stating the fact, that in your heart you are too cheap to let a brass go to the recycle bin- after 10-20 shots? hee-hee Is it worth it ?? I'm approaching the 8-9th loading of my first AA brass. All is well, yet I won't go for too many more reloads on these . I've been very impressed with them, for a gas gun. They will get brittle and fail, I don't need that to happen where I hunt.

              Comment

              • sneaky one
                Chieftain
                • Mar 2011
                • 3077

                #8
                woops, a bit off of the start topic.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by sneaky one View Post
                  so are you stating the fact, that in your heart you are too cheap to let a brass go to the recycle bin- after 10-20 shots? hee-hee Is it worth it ??
                  That isn't the only benefit of annealing. It also prevents neck tension from changing as the brass "ages". From what I've read, it isn't uncommon for those who anneal for consistency to do so after every two firings. Increased case life is more of a side benefit.

                  Naysayers, please note I haven't said annealing is necessary, or that you'd be guaranteed to see improved accuracy in a gas gun. However, the brass will definitely harden and change elasticity through use either way.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sneaky
                    Hey, it's easy why not. If I can run 100 cases five more times - or more - why not? After looking at the Hornady set up I realized a deepwell 7/16"socket with a 2" - 1/4" drive extension would do the same thing in my drill. That leaves the Tempilaq @ $14 from midwayusa ( forget the Tempilstik -$129). A pretty minimal investment for keeping the brass in good shape.

                    Comment

                    • sneaky one
                      Chieftain
                      • Mar 2011
                      • 3077

                      #11
                      Hmmm... got a photo, and a how to, the way you do this Steel ? I am frugal, according to my wife, who frowns when I tell her I have some new brass enroute. Hmmmmm....... I have an article in a gun rag that describes another high tech , ( probably what the brass case manuf. use) , technique. I guess I could throw another hobby onto the oversized pile......geez.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sorry about the poor photo quality. Drop the nut (any 7/16" nut) into the deep well to space the shell up a little and you are set. You can heat and dump the hot shell into water to quench it without dumping the nut. Its not cast aluminum, but if you cool the socket with the water every few it shouldn't get hot enough to cause problems. Remember you are only heating the neck to the recommended temp - 650deg TempiLaq is what was recommended in the article.
                        BTW you're not frugal you're cheap (LOL).
                        Attached Files

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                        • sneaky one
                          Chieftain
                          • Mar 2011
                          • 3077

                          #13
                          Mal., and steel. Interesting ideas . Steel , do you have the socket size, and brass caliber - correct? Also- again..- Is it really worth it? The good and cheap- brass is out there .. Some of us need to recycle the brass , and actually keep it in our country ,,,, otherwise.. guess what? China- dina - will eat it all up.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by sneaky one View Post
                            Also- again..- Is it really worth it?
                            Individual's choice; no one can answer that but you. There are multiple potential benefits, from case life to consistency/accuracy, but I don't think anyone will argue that it's a terribly fun process. Even with a $500 mostly-automated setup, it takes time.

                            I fairly recently on the AccurateShooter forum that someone is offering aluminum case holders for annealing. Similar to the socket idea, but the aluminum is machined for a closer fit, and is a more efficient heat sink than steel. http://forum.accurateshooter.com/ind...opic=3766287.0

                            Comment

                            • sneaky one
                              Chieftain
                              • Mar 2011
                              • 3077

                              #15
                              Thanks Malc. I'll look into it. My wife hates it when I get into another project,and it doesn't involve her. This is one that she could help in (flame-fire, and lots of heat!), and she could see the hot,- end- benefit from it. Thanks.

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