Need a load for a 142gr projectile.....let me explain.

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  • gophernuts

    Need a load for a 142gr projectile.....let me explain.

    So I got a David Tubbs final finish for my Grendel and the bullets they have that are .264 are in a 142gr projectile. The powder I have on hand is 8208. The load needs to be a "starting" load or you're "ideal" load (-)10%. Anybody have any tips. I was just going to throw in about 24.8 and call it good but I figured I should ask the pros.

  • #2
    I love 8208, but it may be a little too fast for a 142gr bullet. Don't get me wrong, you can find a load that will work, but not necessarily in the sweet zone. As I said in my range report a few days ago, if you can get your hands on some Alliant AR-Comp, I'd bet a dollar to a donut, it would be near perfect for your bullet. If you want to pay the shipping and hasmat fee, I can send you some to try. I'd try it but the heaviest bullets I have are 123 Amax and it was just starting to shine with them as I ran out of case capacity. 8202 really shines with 100 or 109gr bullets, even 120s and 123s, though not so brightly.

    Hoot
    Last edited by Guest; 08-13-2011, 09:48 PM.

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    • LR1955
      Super Moderator
      • Mar 2011
      • 3355

      #3
      Originally posted by gophernuts View Post
      So I got a David Tubbs final finish for my Grendel and the bullets they have that are .264 are in a 142gr projectile. The powder I have on hand is 8208. The load needs to be a "starting" load or you're "ideal" load (-)10%. Anybody have any tips. I was just going to throw in about 24.8 and call it good but I figured I should ask the pros.
      GN:

      True. The Tubb Final Finish uses long and thus heavy bullets and the instructions call for the fastest safe powder at the lowest safe loads. This time, you are not after accuracy. Only something to propel the bullet out of the barrel without blowing up the rifle in the process.

      If all I had was 8208 XBR I would use 25 grains. It may not cycle the upper but that doesn't matter in this case. I also don't really think it matters if you used a slower powder either.

      I have used Final Finish bullets but haven't noted them to really offer anything worth the cost. Maybe with a worn out barrel you can get another five hundred rounds but the cost of the bullets doesn't make up for that extra five hundred rounds.

      No need for them with a button rifled or lapped barrel either. I believe they are more intended for cut rifling.

      You can do just as well using JB bore compound. Costs a lot less too.

      LR1955

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      • gophernuts

        #4
        That is rock solid info. Much appreciated LR1955. I'm just kind of curious about the system. I hear mostly good things. I'm getting about 3in groups at 200 yards but I only have about 120 rounds through the pipe. Maybe a a few more will polish it down a bit more and improve my accuracy.

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        • #5
          Ok, that was this week's DUH moment. I started reading , my eyes saw Tubbs and my brain saw applied the Tubbs process. Now what should I use for 142gr bullets?

          I could never bring myself to shoot sandpaper coated bullets down my barrel. I know, I know, lots of folks do.

          Like LR1955, I swear by JB compound and JB Bore Brite. Yes, it takes more work, but in the case of a barrel, I'd just as soon go slow anyway.

          Like my family barbor used to say, "I can always take more off, but I can't put it back on."

          Hoot

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          • gophernuts

            #6
            So what is the story on this bore polish you speak of? I want to hear both sides.

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