Which bullet for long range and hunting?

[Slinkz]

I have an 18" BHW build that I'm considering reloading for to increase accuracy and bring down my cost per trigger pull. I would like accuracy out to 1000 if possible and hunting will be pigs and deer from 50-400. I'm thinking either the SST or AMAZ 123gr would be good, but any other considerations would also be much appreciated.


Also, I don't really want to make another thread for this, so I thought I'd post my shopping list to see what y'all think about it for a complete reloading setup for a new reloader (outside of brass, powder, bullets and primers):

1. Lee Challenger Breech lock single stage anniversary kit
2. Hornady Powder Trickler
3. Hornady Hamdbook of cartridge reloading 9th Ed.
4. Hornady Custom grade new dimension 2-die 6.5 Grendel set
5. Frankford Arsenal digital calipers
6. Frankford Arsenal reloading tray #4
7. Frankford case tumbler
8. Frankford impact bullet puller
9. Lee case length gage and shell holder

Finally, how important is a chronograph? Can I get around not having access to one?

Help would be greatly appreciated!

[Slinkz]

Welp, I went ahead and bought everything to take advantage of the 4th deals. Hopefully I made the right choices

[JASmith]

The chronograph is important when one is looking for long range load optimization.

Access to known distance range and a good range finder to support getting the sights set for those longer shots will partially offset a lack precise knowledge of muzzle velocity.

The LabRadar is still a bit pricey but the Magnetospeed gives excellent results and is a lot more convenient thatn the classic versions that use screens.

Is item #9 the one that trims when chucked up to drill? If so, using a VLD chamfering tool will compliment it by helping avoid scraping copper off of bullets during seating.

[Slinkz]

Unfortunately I don't have $200 at the moment to spend on a Chrono. Any less expensive ones worth getting?

Item #9 is an accessory to something else in the kit that does what you're describing. The kit comes with a chamfering tool as well

[JASmith]

Most of the time, muzzle velocity is not particularly far from what others get with your barrel length.

That is good enough to establish a preliminary trajectory. Zero at whatever range you prefer and call it your "standard zero."

Then you can shoot groups at longer ranges and determine what elevation adjustment off of the theoretical drop for the new range and your "standard" zero.

One benefits from this exercise by swapping the chrono for more trigger time. Some might view that as a win.

Regarding the chrono, one could try sighting in at the longest range you have access to.

[cory]

First Muzzle Velocity is everything when determining max pressure for this round. Observing the brass can be very deceiving.

Here's a little advice. Frankford is a great option in some of the side stuff until you can afford dillon. However, I'm not a fan of lee at all, buy once cry once. You'll thank me later.

1. Forster CoAx, Redding T-7, or RCBS (I'd highly suggest one of these in this order)
2. Save your money at least for now
3. The Hornady book is great, but your money would be better spent on the Grendel Handbooks, as far as reloading for the Grendel goes.
4. I'm a big fan of Redding dies. I feel like they're well worth the money.
5. You can get a hornady set off of amazon for about $20. Works great as long as you keep it dust free. I trust Hornady a little more than frankford.

9. Make sure you get a shellholder from the same company as your dies or you'll likely run into problems. I'd suggest a sheridan case gage.

[JASmith]

While Cory's advice is absolutely on the money for someone who has developed some handloading experience in this cartridge, it is entirely possible to be overwhelmed by apparent complexity.

Best advice -- get a box of 123 grain SST bullets and load them to the Hornady manual or the Grendel Handbook specs. Go with the lower maximum charge weight from the two references if you have them both and work up to that level to get an accuracy node.

If you find a load you like, go with it for the rest of the box, and perhaps with a second box.

At this point, the handloading addiction will have bitten hard and the $200.00 or so for a good chronograph will seem reasonable, natural and affordable!

[JASmith]

PS,

Referring again to Cory's comment about pressure, seating depth is important and you will want to chamber and eject a dummy round to allow a check to see if the lands are engaged. Compare that with a factory round you have also chambered and ejected.

There are lots of discussions about the implications of land engagement and what, if anything, one should change if you get some engagement.

In brief, a tiny bit of engagement or "light kiss" per Bill Alexander, is tolerable and gives what many of us think is the best chance for excellent accuracy. More aggressive engagement can drive pressures to uncomfortable levels.

Cheers!

[Slinkz]

Great info.

Is a case gage necessary? I haven't really seen them mentioned until now and I wtas under the impression that calipers would work to measure COAL and as long as that was kept within the handbooks specifications, I should be good to go.

Here's a link to my number 9: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/413...der-65-grendel

It's just used in conjunction with the case trimmer of the Lee set but doesn't look at all like the Sheridan

[wheelguner]

The MagnetoSpeed Sporter Chrono can be had from several suppliers for $179.00. I have included link to Midway:

http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/896627/magnetospeed-sporter-chronograph

Amazon has them as well if you a prime member you get free shipping. I was checking prices for a friend of mine that chooses not to connect to the internet.
I let him try mine and he was sold on it. I personally like it better than any I have owned. I sold my Oehler, Chrony and Pact after I used the MagnetoSpeed a couple of times.

[JASmith]

Great info.

Is a case gage necessary? I haven't really seen them mentioned until now and I wtas under the impression that calipers would work to measure COAL and as long as that was kept within the handbooks specifications, I should be good to go...

The calipers and length to tip are a good start -- PROVIDED one verifies that the bullet does not heavily engage the lands at the chosen length.

The case gage provides an excellent step forward in terms of precision and repeatability but is not necessary during the steep part of one's learning curve.

I have used the Lee case trimmer shown but in other calibers. It is a good choice as long as one is OK with the trim length it produces.

[Slinkz]

Awesome. Thanks so much for your help

[6.5 mm Shoot]

Slinkz the Lee trimmer you picked will do the job. The only problem with it is you can't adjust your length. One of the up grades to my equipment was to replace it with a Forster case trimmer.

It looks like a little lath that has a hand crank. It works great and is much easer on the hand to use. The only draw back is they go for around $80.

The other up grade I have made was I picked up a RCBS priming tool. It works great and keeps you from touching them with your fingers. Again the down side is the cost. They go for around $80.

As for the chronograph I use the the Master Chrony . They go for around $100. They work and have been around for years. Are they the best? No, but they do work and give you the information you need.

Yes you do need a chronograph. It's the only way you are going to know what your reloads are doing.

[cory]

You'll likely never need a trimmer for this caliber using Hornady, Lapua, of Nosler/Norma Brass. If you're set on a trimmer I'm a big fan of the WFT trimmer. I'm able to chuck it into my drill and go to town on a lot of brass in a short amount of time.

[JASmith]

I use it also.

Sometimes one wants to mess with the length setting. It is much easier to do if one keeps a case with the desired length to use as a template.