Pressure signs

[motoxxx_ryder]

well i ran my OCW test last night and i was a bit more stable since i had a bipod vs a front bag that was too low (cause me to have to get uncomfortable to get into position).

Everything but 1/2 groups shot 1moa or better, 28.6 looks like its my money load. Next up with be chronoing the load and also testing graphited necks. I have 10 with necks graphited if its more consistant hello one more step to reloading!

[motoxxx_ryder]

Anyone ever notice rather large changes in accuracy when adding a brake? I added a 51t mount so i could run suppressed and that group above turned into about 3-4 inches, only change was the brake...

this is getting frustrating lol

[Jakal]

Sounds like your barrel harmonics have changed. Pull the break and re-shoot your accuracy load. Does it group back to original point of aim and group well?

If so, put the break back on and re-run your charge ladder. I would do this when the rifle is in it's final configuration.

If not, check your scope and mount.

[motoxxx_ryder]

Sounds like your barrel harmonics have changed. Pull the break and re-shoot your accuracy load. Does it group back to original point of aim and group well?

If so, put the break back on and re-run your charge ladder. I would do this when the rifle is in it's final configuration.

If not, check your scope and mount.

scope and mount were the first spot i checked, pepr mount is still at 65lbs and the rings are at 25, break is rocksetted in so would be a PITA to remove. Im going to run another OCW to find the accurate node with the brake. if it happens again ill pull the upper apart and verify all the torque specs since i didn't build it. Just wanted to see if that is common when adding a brake.

Also noticed my LGS has h335 in stock and hodgdon has that as a good pow. might test it out and see what happens.

never did load testing with 2 different powders, do you clean between powders typically if doing so?

[Jakal]

[VASCAR2]

I use H-335 powder for lighter 100- 107 grain bullets for the 6.5 Grendel but I use CFE 223 for 120,123, 125 grain bullets. I have gotten good accuracy with 29.0 grains of H-335 with several different 100 grain bullets.

[lwminton]

Has the value of cleaning ever been methodically tested by the group? How often, how much, does it make a difference, better or worse?

[Jakal]

Not sure if the Horde has ever examined cleaning in detail. I keep hearing about the effect of carbon and copper in layers, then add moisture and now you have a battery for a barrel. This is why the benchrest shooters clean after every session.

I am more in line with the thinking of a cold-bore dirty-barrel first shot hitting where you expect it to.

If I got in a firefight, I would not want to have to stop and break down my weapon in the middle of it to clean and gain my accuracy back.

I take from the benchrest group things that are useful like prepping all my brass from the start. Full length size, trim, chamfer and uniform primer pockets, even on new Lapua brass.

I would rather put on a new barrel then spend the money on cleaning and always having to expend rounds just to get back to PoA/PoI.
You spend alot of money and barrel life just running charge ladders. Why shoot just to shoot unless that is the goal?

Light reading... http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/i.../t-647867.html

There was a Marine officer (can't remember rank, Major to General) that had a good write up on a light cleaning VS a clean it and store it long term and the effects of barrel life and accuracy but I can't find it right now. Will have to do that later.

[cory]

... I have gotten good accuracy with 29.0 grains of H-335 with several different 100 grain bullets.

What velocity at what barrel length?

[motoxxx_ryder]

Not sure if the Horde has ever examined cleaning in detail. I keep hearing about the effect of carbon and copper in layers, then add moisture and now you have a battery for a barrel. This is why the benchrest shooters clean after every session.

I am more in line with the thinking of a cold-bore dirty-barrel first shot hitting where you expect it to.

If I got in a firefight, I would not want to have to stop and break down my weapon in the middle of it to clean and gain my accuracy back.

I take from the benchrest group things that are useful like prepping all my brass from the start. Full length size, trim, chamfer and uniform primer pockets, even on new Lapua brass.

I would rather put on a new barrel then spend the money on cleaning and always having to expend rounds just to get back to PoA/PoI.
You spend alot of money and barrel life just running charge ladders. Why shoot just to shoot unless that is the goal?

Light reading... http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/i.../t-647867.html

There was a Marine officer (can't remember rank, Major to General) that had a good write up on a light cleaning VS a clean it and store it long term and the effects of barrel life and accuracy but I can't find it right now. Will have to do that later.

there was alot of detail on the hide about cleaning. The old timers who shoot competitive steel NOT benchrest like the copper fouling. The theory was it builds up a slick layer of copper and eventually gets to much. you want to knock the copper layer down JUST a hint to get back to the good layers. You dont need to clean it out 100% or you have to refoul with 50-60 shots.

They also keep detailed notes on when a barrel opens up IE fouled at 48 shot out at 410, then they will clean it as close to 410 as they can with a light cleaning.

im not that good at cleaning so its either foaming bore cleaner or sweets in mine followed by slip lube.

I just wasnt sure if swapping powders made a difference at all in load data and the worst thing in the world is data that is thrown off by a variable that is not repeatable.

[VASCAR2]

What velocity at what barrel length?

16" Shaw chrome moley barrel at 350 ASL around 90 degrees average velocity 2566 FPS with 100 grain Nosler BT. I use the same charge with 100 grain Sierra Varmint and 100 grain Barnes TTSX. This is not a fast load but has proven accurate and is easy on brass. I loaded this in Hornady and PPU brass.