Cool Video on Cerakote

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  • montana
    Chieftain
    • Jun 2011
    • 3209

    #16

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    • Klem
      Chieftain
      • Aug 2013
      • 3507

      #17
      Originally posted by rabiddawg View Post
      Wow, what yall got in the water out there? I have had guns out in wet weather and never had a problem like that. They fo get wiped off back at the camp.

      When i was a kid I had a Remington 1100 spend the night under water after a boat accident and it faired better than the gun in those photos. The blueing held up fine. The only permant damage was the stock cracked a bit from swelling.
      Probably salt, and you will end up in a corrosion situation eventually.

      Where I live near the coast insurance premiums go up if you live 1.5km or closer to the beach. Salt in the air will eventually corrode everything that is unprotected. Zerust corrosion management vapour capsules are a popular addition to firearm cabinets here. Brownells sells corrosion tabs for smaller containers and you see them sometimes in manufacturer boxes like dies. If you are going to cache anything underground for the long term don't use metal boxes like ammo liners.

      The inside of barrels are a corrosion magnet, especially non stainless barrels. Fire a few function/check-zero rounds prior to leaving your holding area and head out into the bush. The carbon now on the inside of the barrel soon attracts moisture in a humid environment. It then becomes a dilemma as to whether to go out with the accuracy and reliability of a fouled barrel or oiled with no function test. You can even swim with your gun as long as the optics and ammo are sealed and you let all the water out of the barrel before pulling the trigger. But, spend a few days and nights out in the rain...

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      • Variable
        Chieftain
        • Mar 2011
        • 2403

        #18
        Originally posted by rabiddawg View Post
        I assume to paint one and do it right, each and every piece has to be removed and painted separately?

        How do you keep from cracking the finish when torquing the screws down or driving in pins?
        I'm wondering what would happen if you took a complete rifle and just degreased it well externally, then went ahead and sprayed it. I'm not overly concerned with the corrosion resistance, I just want a durable camouflage that'll look decent.
        Life member NRA, SAF, GOA, WVSRPA (and VFW). Also member WVCDL. Join NOW!!!!!
        We either hang together on this, or we'll certainly HANG separately.....

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        • LRRPF52
          Super Moderator
          • Sep 2014
          • 8569

          #19
          Originally posted by Variable View Post
          I'm wondering what would happen if you took a complete rifle and just degreased it well externally, then went ahead and sprayed it. I'm not overly concerned with the corrosion resistance, I just want a durable camouflage that'll look decent.
          The oil inside will seep towards the degreased outside, and will not support a durable finish. You want to sandblast with aluminum oxide or sand with large grit the surface to get a good purchase of the Cerakote.

          This is why I prefer to start with new parts, which I still wash, blast or sand, then acetone bathe, then coat. I just built a new spray booth yesterday that will make things easier on me.
          NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

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          • bwaites
            Moderator
            • Mar 2011
            • 4445

            #20
            Originally posted by Variable View Post
            I'm wondering what would happen if you took a complete rifle and just degreased it well externally, then went ahead and sprayed it. I'm not overly concerned with the corrosion resistance, I just want a durable camouflage that'll look decent.
            You would be AMAZED at how hard it can be to get oil out of parts. We degrease, aluminum oxide blast, acetone bathe, then heat to 250 degrees, then recheck for any grease or oil. The current record is 7 rewashes on a shotgun receiver.

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            • montana
              Chieftain
              • Jun 2011
              • 3209

              #21
              If nothing on a firearm is loc-tite shut like the barrel nut to the upper receiver, dis assembly is not too bad. It is a good time to up grade any parts if a person decides to Cerakote. It is important to degrease as I missed a spot on a camouflage hand guard I spent a lot of time on and had to sandblast and start over. Cerakote will not adhere to any oil contaminated parts. Used Glock pistols frames and AR ejection covers seem to hold on to oil like my wife holds on to our savings. I have seen AR rifles that were Cerakoted only on the outside and I didn't care for the look. I would spend the extra time and disassemble it and do it right if it was my rifle.

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              • Variable
                Chieftain
                • Mar 2011
                • 2403

                #22
                Okay, thanks for the advice guys.

                I've blasted and helped blue/park stuff at my buddy's shop before, I know what you mean about oil wicking out of crevices.

                I could do it myself over at my buddy's place, but it's been almost impossible to get over there for a good while due to work and scheduling conflicts.

                Maybe I could just have someone cerakote it FDE, and then apply the other colors as just paint over the cerakote. That way if I screw up the paint/pattern, I could remove it and then repaint again over the cerakote.
                Life member NRA, SAF, GOA, WVSRPA (and VFW). Also member WVCDL. Join NOW!!!!!
                We either hang together on this, or we'll certainly HANG separately.....

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                • biodsl
                  Chieftain
                  • Aug 2011
                  • 1714

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Variable View Post
                  Maybe I could just have someone cerakote it FDE, and then apply the other colors as just paint over the cerakote. That way if I screw up the paint/pattern, I could remove it and then repaint again over the cerakote.
                  I like this idea Variable. This approach also would allow you to adjust you're camo pattern and colors to your area of operations. Frank used this approach in a Hide video
                  Paul Peloquin

                  Did government credibility die of Covid or with Covid?

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                  • sneaky one
                    Chieftain
                    • Mar 2011
                    • 3077

                    #24
                    IMG_5213.jpgHmmmm,, after an acetone bath-wipedown, some sprays with non chlorinated brake cleaner-- it leaves no residue, same as acetone.- All went well after the mini sandblast gun let loose upon the items to be coated.

                    Then another blasting with aerosol brake cleaner, wipe it quick- then spray it with compressed air----Clean air! Make sure its dry dry.

                    Wait for a bit- fire it up! 2 thin coats are fine. Just enuff to cover, as needed. Less is more.
                    Last edited by sneaky one; 10-05-2015, 03:24 AM.

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                    • montana
                      Chieftain
                      • Jun 2011
                      • 3209

                      #25
                      Originally posted by sneaky one View Post
                      [ATTACH=CONFIG]6959[/ATTACH]Hmmmm,, after an acetone bath-wipedown, some sprays with non chlorinated brake cleaner-- it leaves no residue, same as acetone.- All went well after the mini sandblast gun let loose upon the items to be coated.

                      Then another blasting with aerosol brake cleaner, wipe it quick- then spray it with compressed air----Clean air! Make sure its dry dry.

                      Wait for a bit- fire it up! 2 thin coats are fine. Just enuff to cover, as needed. Less is more.
                      Interesting way to prop up your upper to Cerakote. It turned out great Sneaky.

                      Comment

                      • sneaky one
                        Chieftain
                        • Mar 2011
                        • 3077

                        #26
                        Thanks montana.

                        Make sure that tape is on the rod ends that go into muzzle- and receiver. Think rotisserie. Easy stuff.

                        I may do all my AR's now, with this cool paint.

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                        • Variable
                          Chieftain
                          • Mar 2011
                          • 2403

                          #27
                          Looks like a good way to do it.

                          I like the color too.
                          Life member NRA, SAF, GOA, WVSRPA (and VFW). Also member WVCDL. Join NOW!!!!!
                          We either hang together on this, or we'll certainly HANG separately.....

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                          • sneaky one
                            Chieftain
                            • Mar 2011
                            • 3077

                            #28
                            Thanks, Vari. I'll camo it a bit next year, after I find a subtle pattern.

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                            • am4966
                              Chieftain
                              • Jul 2014
                              • 1036

                              #29
                              After you cerakote a base coat and it fully cures, That you will not be able to apply cerakote since it won't take or stick. Or what ever you want to call it when you do more b then one layer
                              12.5" SBR Grendel - Need Barrel
                              Surge - Rugged Suppressor
                              Been a fan of the Grendel from the very beginning and haven't second guessed that choice one time.

                              Aim small, miss small!

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                              • The Profit Joseph Sith
                                Warrior
                                • Nov 2016
                                • 596

                                #30
                                Or you could be doing this alot, would be perfectly suited... Hopefully link works im on a mobile.



                                Just a little pertinent background on me. I have worked as a professional painter for years, for both residential interior/exterior (doesn't count) but counter tops bathtubs/surrounds tiles etc., 3 years as a bodyman/prepper painter for automotive industry. And did a little painting surface CIC corrosion inhibiting while working at Boeing Everett on the 787 as a electrician and mechanic. Which mainly pertains to certified cleaning and prep of substrates for processes like bond and ground, wet install fastener, cic (alodine) and re applying primers and paints removed to perform operations on aluminum, Corrosion resistant S.S.(CRES), and carbon fiber. Im no expert, but i have a very good foundation and am pretty comfortable in the coatings field.

                                I'd actually like to do semi pro home cerakote tutorial. I have some ideas id like to bounce off people here and get some feedback. I think other will agree the hardest part of cerakoting is the degrease and the oven for those of us who dont have the money or space really for a normal oven which in most cases isn't large enough for some barrelled actions anyway...

                                I have a hunch the oven will be somewhat easy and cheap (compared to commercial $800 ovens) for those with a welder and angle grinder. Take two steel drums weld them end to end (length wise) cut the top, or clamshell them to drop in or hang parts. This might sound a little shady but buy some harbor frieght heat guns (with warranty) and blow them in top or bottom across parts again length wise and out opposite end. Of course you'd want a filter the incoming air for particulates. And IF needed or more efficient. Buy some cheap crock pots from the thrift stores to disect and wrap the NiCr wires insulated with fibreglass sleeves around the oven body since its not insulated. If anyone beats me to this project I'd LOVE to know how it works or any good input is welcome.

                                Where I'm out of my depth would be the degreasing tank. If any of you have seen the shooting gallery episode i think it was where they toured the NIC/ cerakote facility. They don't just rinse (or soak) the parts in solvent, they use a professional heated solvent tank. And probably even a step above that would be a vapor (vapour?) Degreaser.

                                I'm curious if it would also be possible to buy some large serving trays from Costco cut the one end off each and tig weld them together to make a long SS tank and use the same method i mentioned above using a surplus crock pot rheostat/controller and heating element. This would pretty much HAVE to have a lid as it would evap. Very quickly in the case of hot solvents like acetone.
                                Another method of heating might be a good ol' fashioned scientific hotplate/stirrer. Bonus points if you can stir the solution!
                                The last method im kinda apprehensive to even suggest is a heated ultrasonic tank. Just used with heat not ultrasonic as i would be worried this would be TOO exciting!

                                Any ideas, pointers, pointers, cautions?

                                I'm sure like alot of you, i could either spend thousands to pay someone else to do it and only paint half your collection. Or pay thousands to buy the equipment if your fully capable. Or pay MAYBE a few hundred and spend the rest on colors and product.

                                Also for those interested, email NIC/Cerakote. They are a awesome co. Both in products and service. They will send anyone a bunch of free swatches many times over they make sure your well informed before you make decisions. You can also do destructive tests on these as well. (Very durable)

                                One last question...and this will probably seem weird aksed here but since im on the topic. Has anyone cerakoted between steel tensioned parts such as between AK trunnions before assembly? I've hammered the aluminum swatches with ball peen hammer (ball end) and seem to do insanely well given the alum deforms and peens out the sides but even then the surface bond seems to hold. Steel shoukdnt have this isshe at all. I'd prefer to coat everything inside snd out because i do all my own work and can take as much time as i need. My main concern (esp. With a PSL, AK,Saiga12) is that over 10-20k rounds of flexing between those parts it will break down, the ceramics (solids) with seperate from the polymers and retain moister and actually end up doing the opposite of what i intended which is to prevent corrosion where i cant get to it.

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