new glass for my 18" Grendel

[Rsager757]

I am in the market for a new optic for Mr. Grendel. I was looking at Burris Veracity 3x15x50mm. Its a FFP scope with MOA reticle and MOA adjustments. If my logic prevails wouldnt this make my simple mind of inches of hold over etc. process quicker than trying to process MIL to inches? The advantage of FFP with the convience of my INCH thought process that Ive been using for 30 plus years? Any insight is welcome.

[Klem]

If you are going to have stadia lines on your reticle then it behoves you to have them in the same units of measure as your turrets. As you say, to avoid having to do the mental conversion between Imperial and Metric every time. So, either Mils/Mils or MOA/MOA. I prefer Mils/Mils, because Metric uses the decimal system; meaning everything is in factors of 10. For example, 1 Mil subtends 1 metre at 1,000 metres. Or 1Mil subtends 10cm at 100 Metres. I find this more intuitive than Imperial, especially when under stress. All my serious scopes are Mils/Mils.

In your shoes I would be weighing up the more intuitive metric/decimal system against the Imperial system that you are more familiar with.

[kmon]

MOA/MOA or Mil/Mil doesn't really matter that much as long as you learn how to use it. Those of us that have been using the Imperial system for many years might not want to have to forget about inches like you need to for using the Mil/Mil scopes. I don't understand why scope manufactures make scopes with MOA turrets with Mil reticles but some still do which IMO causes confusion and lots of conversion that it not necessary if both are on the same system.

Actually MOA isn't inches either but is close. MOA is Minute of Angle. One degree of a 360 degree arc is then divided by 60 to get one minute of angle which comes close to an inch at 100 yards and 10 inches at 1000 yards but in reality one MOA is 1.047 inches at 100 yards but close enough to call one inch for practical purposes.

[RicosRevenge]

Agree with everything above... as to scope options in the $700-ish range that are FFP:

- Vortex PST FFP
- Sig Tango 4 (I went with this one and I'm very pleased)
- Athlon (never used one but I figured I would throw it out there because someone will eventually) - you would save some money?

[Klem]

[QUOTE=kmon;137499]...Those of us that have been using the Imperial system for many years might not want to have to forget about inches like you need to for using the Mil/Mil scopes. QUOTE]

I live in a part of the world that is metric. The conversions I am stuck with are fps (muzzle velocity), and the occasional rifle range still in Yards from the old days. Grains weight I leave as well. I convert my measurements sometimes before posting.

Like I said, if you are more familiar with Imperial then whatever works.

[diddlyv]

I sure cannot hold the .047 difference between 1 moa and 1 inch, out at 1000 yards it is nearly a half inch difference. Guess one might hit the upper or lower lip when aiming for the other at 1000 yards.

Will have to get used to the .1 mil clicks on my new AR MOD1 a little more that 3/8 inches per click at 100 yards. Not in the army anymore so my local shooting range is marked off in yards. The silhouette range is in meters but not able to access that and shoot at paper.

Should I go hunting my range finder is set to yards 10 mils being approx 3.6 inches at 100 yards vs 3.9 at 100 meters even out to 500 meters the difference is really only about 1.5 inches. Pretty sure I can't hold 1.5 inches at 500 yards or meters.

If we are punching paper on a range, pretty easy to get the elevation dope figured out.

If we are hunting I sort of subscribe to the 9 inch paper plate theory. Figure out the max range you can hit the paper plate 100% of the time with the first shot from a hunting shooting position, and shoot at game no further than that.

Long range shooting is hard. The easiest part is the elevation adjustment. Range finders, Chronographs and ballistic calculators with give you that dope, which can then be verified on the range.

Doping the wind is more of an art than a science. We shooting a 6.5 we are fortunate that most of the bullets are pretty high in BC and are not affected by the wind as much as other calibers unless shooting pretty heavy bullets. Somewhat minimizing the difference between what the actual wind will do to the bullet between muzzle and target and what we think will happen, if we are not to much in error on or estimated wind speed. In real life the wind can be coming from multiple directions and many different velocities between the gun and the target. The longer the range the more likely this is to occur.

Mirage is also a factor the heat waves actually can bend the light causing the target to appear to be where it is not.

The one variable we can best control is our wobble area. Practice practice practice if done correctly will help us to get a good tight position that will reduce the wobble and lead to more accurate shooting. It is amazing how fast a stationary target can be moving around thru a 20 x scope

Triggers and optics can also help us to shoot more accurately. The heavier the trigger pull the more likely we are to move the gun while pulling the trigger.

[Kilco]

I continue to be amazed with my little redfield revolution TAC model. 3-9x40, 1/4 Target turrets, nice reticle with hash marks every 2 moa, VERY good low light clarity, and redfield "no excuse" lifetime warrenty. Haven't had an issue with mine, and returns to zero everytime.

[BoxofRox]

I'm a huge Vortex fan, they have a PST 4-16 in ffp, might be worth a look.

[xlcc]

I second that.Revolution Tac,just right for me

[Maddvaper]

Veracity

Veracity now with a $100 mail in rebate and Sportoptics.com selling them a $100 off ontop of that as well I snatched up one in 4-20x50 ,freaking amaxing piece of glass if I say so myself.

[Rickc]

I put the PRS 2.5 to 10 on my 18

Of course this is a hog hunter not a target gun

Really like it. Wide field of view at 2.5 for those fast moving pigs

The lighted reticle is very nice.

[Chrazy-Chris]

Personally I don't think ffp is necessary on a scope less than 20 power. If you're shooting far enough away that you need to use holdovers, you will probably have the scope maxed out on magnification anyways. I opted to save some money and went with the SFP 4 - 16 for my Grendel.