A1 vs A2 Flash Hider

[85_Ranger4x4]

I ordered an A2 FH with my barrel from Classic, they are all I have ever had on my builds. They shipped an A1 FH which they don't even show on their site. I know the story goes that the open bottom is supposed to kick up more stuff when shooting prone (like hunting) Is it that big of a deal? As in should I fuss for a replacement or will the new and different one be ok?

[LR1955]

I ordered an A2 FH with my barrel from Classic, they are all I have ever had on my builds. They shipped an A1 FH which they don't even show on their site. I know the story goes that the open bottom is supposed to kick up more stuff when shooting prone (like hunting) Is it that big of a deal? As in should I fuss for a replacement or will the new and different one be ok?

85R:

Yes, they will kick up more dust.

No, it is not a big deal.

I would speculate that you will never notice the difference. Unless you were trying to break open ammo crates that were bound with metal binding straps. Then the A-1 flash hider will show its true value!

Now, if you had a break that blew downwards, I would say that it wasn't a good idea. I have a couple that are omni-directional and they really do blow enough stuff around to cause some problems.

LR55

[85_Ranger4x4]

I would speculate that you will never notice the difference. Unless you were trying to break open ammo crates that were bound with metal binding straps. Then the A-1 flash hider will show its true value!

Ok, now I am curious how you do that with a flash hider?

[Greg_R]

The original flash hider was a 3 prong. You could break the wires holding a case of c-rations together by sliding the wire in the prongs and twisting. The A1 was a full birdcage style. The A2 is a birdcage with the closed bottom. I think he confused the original flash hider with the A1 flash hider.

[Klem]

Never knew about the trick with the ammo tins. You learn something everyday.

Another good thing about the A1 omnidirectional cage is that they use a split washer, not a crush washer. No need for timing. This means you can do them up hand tight on your personal build and take them off regularly to clean and inspect the crown. There's more than enough friction on the meaty MILSPEC split washers that they never come loose when hand tight.

That said, hiding the flash is of no use in my shooting and it's arguable how much flash those cages hide anyway. I get more utility from mitigating the recoil or lessening the sound. Or shooting with no muzzle device at all.

[Lastrites]

The three prong SP1 and A-1 do mitigate flash decently enough, have them both on 556 barreled uppers. The A-1, I've never noticed much dust kick up when prone but I do like that no timing is involved. Really want to do a comp or muzzle break but really don't want the rifle to be obnoxious at the range and have a nice fireball in low light hunting.

[LR1955]

The original flash hider was a 3 prong. You could break the wires holding a case of c-rations together by sliding the wire in the prongs and twisting. The A1 was a full birdcage style. The A2 is a birdcage with the closed bottom. I think he confused the original flash hider with the A1 flash hider.

When someone says 'A-1' and flash hider, in the context of AR-15's, I have always interpreted it to mean the three prong flash hider on the M-16 A-1. Never knew there was another 'A-1' style!

I obviously didn't confuse everyone but am not a historian of flash hiders, either.

LR-55

[bj139]

I never thought the flash hider was of much use to civilian shooters.

The only advantage I can see is if you rest your muzzle in the dirt it prevents dirt from getting in the bore.

[85_Ranger4x4]

I never thought the flash hider was of much use to civilian shooters.

The only advantage I can see is if you rest your muzzle in the dirt it prevents dirt from getting in the bore.

I look at them as a neat looking and not overly expensive thread protector.

[bj139]

I have not put a thread protector on my 16" BCA Grendel barrel and have shot it a few times. It does have a cone shaped crown already.

I did notice BCA is now selling 24" Grendel barrels with no thread at all. I kind of like that look and extra length on a long barrel becomes unwieldy.

[Greg_R]

The M16 had the 3 prong, the M16 A1, which is what I was issued, had the birdcage, the A2 had the birdcage with the closed bottom.

[LR1955]

The M16 had the 3 prong, the M16 A1, which is what I was issued, had the birdcage, the A2 had the birdcage with the closed bottom.

GR:

You are correct and I stand corrected again. Mine was stamped 'XM-16' and had the three prong flash suppressor. No forward assist. Kind of strange for a TOE unit in the late 70's I believe.

LR55

[Greg_R]

I have not put a thread protector on my 16" BCA Grendel barrel and have shot it a few times. It does have a cone shaped crown already.

I did notice BCA is now selling 24" Grendel barrels with no thread at all. I kind of like that look and extra length on a long barrel becomes unwieldy.

Most of the "target" barrels come unthreaded. The muzzle devices can have an effect on accuracy.

[ah1whiskey]

the GI three prong required a special tool to install IIRC.

the A1 is a birdcage-- the a2 is a birdcage with a filled in bottom that has to be timed.

lots of folks prefer the a1 as it goes on and off without much fuss.

all of the old school FH work well --

if it was me i would just run the a1 .

[Steamburn]

I look at them as a neat looking and not overly expensive thread protector.

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