Anyone interested in a Damascus knife build?

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  • Cuppednlocked
    Bloodstained
    • Nov 2016
    • 33

    #31
    The blade on the right was my favorite of the two. Was looking forward to seeing it finished.

    Comment

    • bldsmith
      Bloodstained
      • Apr 2017
      • 66

      #32
      Not a good day. A little back story.

      I have always preached the downfalls off using found steel. One big drawback is not knowing what it is made up of. Damascus relies on differing steel to develop the pattern during the etch. The material I used was heavy duty steel strapping which I had tested out to 1070. The second steel was a 1 1/4" bandsaw blade u got from a wood supplier. Normally bandsaw has 2-3% nickle. That is sufficient to provide great contrast. During the forging I did some etch testing and it was looking good. However after heat treating steel reacts differently in the etch.

      I went to etch the blade after 4 hours of finish sanding. Normally the pattern pops right away. After a few minutes there was very little pattern if any. Well cheap. I let it etch for a few hours and still no contrast. I had filled the gullets of the database with powdered 1095. It etched away. Here is what the blade looks like.



      Here is what good contrast looks like.



      So I guess I will just have to finish the twist blade in stead.

      Just goes to show I need to practice what I preach. Don't use found materials esp on a WIP! At least do one before to make sure it works.
      A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

      ABS Journeyman Smith

      http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

      Comment

      • bldsmith
        Bloodstained
        • Apr 2017
        • 66

        #33
        Finally dug out of the hole and am able to start my next project. This one will be a Turkish twist hunter, an order.
        Start with 23 alternating layers of 1070 and 15n20.



        Stack them getting ready to weld up billet.



        I do a dry weld method. First seal up the ends.

        ie

        Then I create a box by welding a sheet metal plate to the exposed sides.

        A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

        ABS Journeyman Smith

        http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

        Comment

        • bldsmith
          Bloodstained
          • Apr 2017
          • 66

          #34
          Now weld up all the seams.



          This provides for an o2 free environment and eliminates the need for flux.

          Now get it hot.



          Will post more later.
          A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

          ABS Journeyman Smith

          http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

          Comment

          • bldsmith
            Bloodstained
            • Apr 2017
            • 66

            #35
            Getting warmed up.

            [IMG]c2dfc42c-d93d-4add-9cd2-80400fa178df[/IMG]

            Using a little pressure to get things stuck.



            Need to take that piece of sheet metal off the sides.



            Here is a little better shot showing how clean things are from no O2 intrusions. Yes the layers are now welded together.

            A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

            ABS Journeyman Smith

            http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

            Comment

            • bldsmith
              Bloodstained
              • Apr 2017
              • 66

              #36
              Now it's time to move some material. I need 2 of these for this project. Here it is reduced from 1.25x1.75x6 to approx 3/4x3/4x18"



              Now they are ready for the next step. 1/2x1/2x40" Will do more work on Monday.

              A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

              ABS Journeyman Smith

              http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

              Comment

              • bldsmith
                Bloodstained
                • Apr 2017
                • 66

                #37
                Ok. More progress this week. I need to do right and left twists on the drawn out bars. First cut them into 4 pieces each and weld on 3/4 square stock.


                Now into the twisting jig.



                I made this to allow for a more uniform twist by myself.


                Just heat with a rose bud and twist .
                For some reason the second billet did not like being twisted. I had a few shear planes develope. I did get enough for this project though.

                A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

                ABS Journeyman Smith

                http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

                Comment

                • bldsmith
                  Bloodstained
                  • Apr 2017
                  • 66

                  #38
                  Cut ready to forge square.



                  Note they alternate right left twist.
                  Forged to 3/8 square and scale ground off.



                  Next is one of those steps I take just to add a little more security of good welds. I run weld all the seams to seal the billet. Over 50" of welds. Used stainless rod since it is easier to see when grinding it off.


                  It is forged from a 2x5x3/8 to 1.25x14x1/4.

                  A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

                  ABS Journeyman Smith

                  http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

                  Comment

                  • bldsmith
                    Bloodstained
                    • Apr 2017
                    • 66

                    #39
                    Now to forge the blades.



                    Here is a little close up. You can start to make out some patterning.



                    That is very rough forged and things are smoothed out more once final forging is done.

                    Now into profiling and surface grinding. That's not tomorrow.
                    A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

                    ABS Journeyman Smith

                    http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

                    Comment

                    • rabiddawg
                      Chieftain
                      • Feb 2013
                      • 1664

                      #40
                      Awe man. You left us hanging

                      Can’t wait for the next update!
                      Knowing everthing isnt as important as knowing where to find it.

                      Mark Twain

                      http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showt...2-Yd-Whitetail

                      Comment

                      • BluntForceTrauma
                        Administrator
                        • Feb 2011
                        • 3897

                        #41
                        Wow. Fascinating!
                        :: 6.5 GRENDEL Deer and Targets :: 6mmARC Targets and Varmints and Deer :: 22 ARC Varmints and Targets

                        :: I Drank the Water :: Revelation 21:6 ::

                        Comment

                        • Von Gruff
                          Chieftain
                          • Apr 2012
                          • 1078

                          #42
                          Interesting to see that in the one instance you have welded sheetmetal to the sides of the bilet to keep out the o2 and in the second you have welded each seam. Is there a specific reason or required result for each of the two techniques as I have seen the welded seams done but not the sheetmetal approach.
                          http://www.vongruffknives.com/

                          sigpic Von Gruff



                          Grendel-Max

                          Exodus 20:1-17
                          Acts 4:10-12

                          Comment

                          • bldsmith
                            Bloodstained
                            • Apr 2017
                            • 66

                            #43
                            Sorry to keep you hanging. Been so busy and got behind. Needed to get caught up. Actually this project will get me to were I need to be.

                            To answer the question, I weld the sheet metal to cut down on the # of welds I need to do. It is also much easier to remove. Also on the last weld I want it as perfect as possible. Making sure everything has intimate contact just helps the forge welding take better.

                            Here you can see some residual stainless weldment.



                            I did not get a whole lot done today. It did take 4 hours to surface grind off 50 thousands per side of all 3 blades. Got them profiled and ready for final grinding.



                            As you can see on the center blade, I got a little carried away a bit on the tip removing the scale. Makes no difference as I will be grinding most of that away making the distal taper. This particular pattern needs to have a lot of material removed to get the right look. I lose 60-70%. That is why I wanted to take the 50 thou off each side also.

                            Grinding and heat treat tomorrow.
                            A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

                            ABS Journeyman Smith

                            http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

                            Comment

                            • bldsmith
                              Bloodstained
                              • Apr 2017
                              • 66

                              #44
                              I just realized I never went through the heat treat process on the previous blades.

                              I use high temp salts. Heated with propane and controlled by gas pressure and stream deflection. No mechanical control of any kind on my salt pot.


                              First I need to do a series of thermocycles. I start at 1650, soak for 15 minutes then air cool. I then repeat at 1550, 1450 and 1350. This helps refine grain structure. Then get the salt to 1475f soak for 15 minutes then quench in a fast oil. After quench it now is very hard. So hard in fact it could chip easily. It needs to be tempered. Tempering stress relieves and softens the steel to a usable hardness. I want these blades a bit on the harder side. They will be used for dressing game and not chopping. I temper at 375f for 2 hours twice.

                              Here are the 3 knives i need to finish heat treated ready to finish.




                              This is where I spend a majority of my time. I use the disc grinder to remove the residual salt and any heavy scratches. This is also the time to address any shape issues and edge thickness. Now lots of elbow grease and sandpaper.

                              A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

                              ABS Journeyman Smith

                              http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

                              Comment

                              • bldsmith
                                Bloodstained
                                • Apr 2017
                                • 66

                                #45
                                Takes about 2-3 hours to hand sand a blade this size. Start with 220, 400, 500 then finally 800 grit. This gives a good base for the etch.



                                Now the magic happens. I use ferric chloride to etch. It is not nearly as caustic as acids but still does a good lob. I etch for an hour or longer depending on the pattern and depth desired.

                                Into the FECL.


                                After about an hour getting a good deep etch. I check periodically to see progress scrubbing it of with 2000 grit paper.



                                Now I do a parkerizing step. I use the manganese phosphate to get a nice black park. Heat the solution to 200f and soak until the bubbles stop.

                                A. C. Richards OTAC USN RET

                                ABS Journeyman Smith

                                http://acrichardscustomknives.com/

                                Comment

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