Hello Gman, welcome. Also from New Yorkistan. You'll love this caliber. Deer season is coming!
Hello from Newyorkastan
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Is your upper forged or billet? You have not stated in the posts above. If forged, did you true the extension sleeve and then use loctite ( or similar ) to secure the barrel before you tightened the barrel nut? Looking at the uppers on the Phase 5 web site, they appear to be forged but that is not stated.
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Originally posted by just_john View PostIs your upper forged or billet? You have not stated in the posts above. If forged, did you true the extension sleeve and then use loctite ( or similar ) to secure the barrel before you tightened the barrel nut? Looking at the uppers on the Phase 5 web site, they appear to be forged but that is not stated.
I did not use loctite. I never use that and just greased the threads and torque to 30 fp a couple of times, than final 40-80 fp depending on the timing. I am going to try some red high temp RTV this time when the new rail comes in.
Checked on quite a few forums and that seemed to make a difference on most cases.
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Just an update.
Fitted the barrel to another upper (Spikes billet) and it is tight as a drum. I also noticed on the phase 5 receiver that there is a blem on the inside of the barrel nut area. A big gouge right down to the bare metal. Pretty sure I didn't do this myself as the barrel slid right in very easy and it is actually loose fitting with allot of play which may explain the erratic grouping.
Contacted ar15goa and they have a 10 day return so I'm SOL with them and will be contacting phase 5 or selling it cheap as a blem if they won't help either. They have a lifetime warranty so keeping my fingers crossed.
Looks like I will be remounting the barrel in the Spikes billet receiver when the MI rail gets here.
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GM - cannot emphasize enough, if the upper is forged, get "the tool" and true it up - be sure that the mounting face of the upper is square to the bore. This is a simple process, only takes a few minutes and is well worth it. Let me also inject - forged is much stronger than billet so it is a better choice ( I hear gunfire in my direction - but, did you ever see a billet barrel? There is a reason why they are forged !! ). Then loctite the barrel in place and you will have a very solid unit.
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Originally posted by just_john View PostGM - cannot emphasize enough, if the upper is forged, get "the tool" and true it up - be sure that the mounting face of the upper is square to the bore. This is a simple process, only takes a few minutes and is well worth it. Let me also inject - forged is much stronger than billet so it is a better choice ( I hear gunfire in my direction - but, did you ever see a billet barrel? There is a reason why they are forged !! ). Then loctite the barrel in place and you will have a very solid unit.
I also thought that CNC machining a Forged Billet block which is very different than milling a conventional forging would be just as strong?
I'm no expert at metal of course.
I also experienced the billet by spikes being more true and tight to the barrel than just about every upper I have used in the past.
Anyway thanks for the advice, either way I may just get that tool and make sure everything is trued up no matter what upper I end up using.
ETA: I also wonder, should I continue this thread in the regular area, being that this is the intro section? Don't want to hog this area up too much for my posting!Last edited by Gman6.5; 09-13-2017, 12:27 AM.
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