Tools for the job

[Irbuff]

I almost have all the parts for my grendel build then it hit me... I have not purchased any of the tools for it! I do have a vice and a standard mechanics set with punches however I will be getting a set of roll pin punches as well. I've looked at a vice block for the lower but does anyone make something that works for the upper as well? I plan on doing a few builds in the future so I want something that will last. Thanks guys!

[Drillboss]

I very much prefer the Geissele reaction rod https://geissele.com/reaction-rod.html to the clamshell type upper receiver vise blocks. I think Brownell's may also have something similar. That and a set of vice jaw inserts should do what you need.

The lower vice block is a must have.

[Torquaholic]

I use the No-Mar stuff for the upper and a standard vise block lower piece,https://www.plastixrevolution.net/co...bo-smith-tools.
Will your upper and Handguard need the barrel nut to be indexed? Will you need a tool for that? (The Aero Precision M4E1 barrel nut does not need indexing, as an example).


Don't forget a torque wrench.

[Irbuff]

Yeah I went with the aero precision builder kit so I'm good to go there. And yes I do already have a torque wrench as well. Is there any company that makes 1 block for the upper and lower or are they not as good?

[Lastrites]

Magpul Bev-block seems to work very well for me and it can indeed hold an upper and lower as well.

[Frontier Gear]

Be forewarned that the clam shell style upper vice blocks don't work for all uppers. Examples would be some billet and side charging uppers. Reaction rods are good for muzzle devices as they don't put side pressure on the barrel index pin. It can (not always) however cause problems with installing/removing the barrel nut since the torque is going through the barrel index pin into the reaction rod. For barrel installation/removal I either use a clam shell style vice block or with the BCA side charging uppers I simply use a bench vice with non-marring UHMW jaws.

[Irbuff]

Thanks for all the choices guys! Looks like I have some reading to do now!

[bj139]

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-m16-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx

Klem likes these for roll pin starter punches. I haven't tried them yet.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-6-Piece-Screwdriver-Bit-Set/50056365

Locking Pliers
Wrap some duct tape around the jaws of the largest plier and you have a roll pin press.
The most mechanical advantage is just before the plier locks.
Start with the pin in the hole and adjust the plier so it pushes in the pin a bit just before it locks.
Open plier and advance the adjusting screw 1/4 turn in then push again. Repeat until pin is seated.
I bought a set of roll pin punches and tried them last night. The pin started opening. I got out the vise grip and pressed it in easy peezy.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-Pack-Locking-Plier-Set/50029420

[Irbuff]

Hmm that's a good idea BJ. Might try that instead of roll pin punches considering I have a bunch of vice grips.

[tracker12]

I purchased the BEV Block and it worked well for me on the first build. I don't have anything to compare with thou.

[Klem]

Be forewarned that the clam shell style upper vice blocks don't work for all uppers. Examples would be some billet and side charging uppers. Reaction rods are good for muzzle devices as they don't put side pressure on the barrel index pin. It can (not always) however cause problems with installing/removing the barrel nut since the torque is going through the barrel index pin into the reaction rod. For barrel installation/removal I either use a clam shell style vice block or with the BCA side charging uppers I simply use a bench vice with non-marring UHMW jaws.

A couple of ideas here have alternate opinions.

The reason many of us prefer reaction rods to the clamshells is that any friction-torque experienced by the steel barrel index pin while the barrel nut is being torqued-up is less potentially damaging than the stresses experienced by the aluminium upper while being held in a clamshell. Let's also be realistic when we're talking about friction-torque. As the barrel nut is being torqued up it is in a bind so we're not talking about 60ftLbs of naked torque on the index pin. The friction of the bind is absorbing a lot of that tangential shearing force and acting like a brake. I prefer the Brownells reaction rod, only because it's half the price of the Gieselle.

I don't attach or detach muzzle devices without isolating the torque as close as possible to the muzzle with a barrel vise. If the barrel is being held by the barrel extension while you crank up the torque all the way down at the other end you will be putting unhelpful twisting stress on your barrel. I use a Davidson barrel vise however you can source cheaper dedicated clamps, or for a one-off job make clamping jaws out of wood.