First Build, Looking for Recomendations

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  • Jasunderland
    Unwashed
    • Jan 2018
    • 11

    First Build, Looking for Recomendations

    Piecing together parts for my first AR and (obviously) first 6.5 Grendel build. Looking for a flash hider and low profile gas block (mainly want to know whether clamp on or set screw).

    I hate when people post these kind of posts because of all of the different answers so I apologize for asking.

    Please tell me what flash hider you went with and why.

    Same thing with the gas block. Looking for why you like clamp on or set screw.

    I am putting together my upper with a 20" Faxon Match Fluted Heavy, 15" Midwest Industries G3M MLOK, Aero Precision upper with a Nickel Boron BCG, Vortex HS-T 6-24x50.

    I am wanting to use this rifle for Deer and Varmint as well as punching paper and hitting steel at long range. My goal is next year to take a White tail out to 400 yards (which is where they all were this year and my old 35 Remington just cant make it that far).

    Thanks guys!
  • Dcommoncents
    Warrior
    • Jul 2017
    • 164

    #2
    Welcome to the forum and world of AR building. I have never used a clamp on gb, only those secured with set screws, taper pins that mate with the barrel, or a combination of both. The taper pins aren't practical since I assume the faxon barrel doesn't come with the corresponding channel machined on the bottom.

    My thought is that set screw gb's are superior to clamp on style gb's. I say that because: a) you are dealing with a single piece of metal which must be stronger/lighter than one split down the middle; b) the part of clamp gb's where the screws pass through must be larger than the threaded bottom of a set screw gb, increasing weight and decreasing clearance from the bottom part of a low profile handguard; and c) a set screw gb can be made more secure by dimpling the bottom of the barrel where the set screws hit, which prevents the gb from moving unless the set screws back out of the threads somehow even with loctite applied. I'm not aware of a similar technique to secure a clamp gb. I think clamp gb's are really primarily advantageous if you have a pinned muzzle device that has a larger outer diameter than the gas block journal on the barrel such that the gb couldn't be installed or removed with the muzzle device in place.

    Comment

    • VASCAR2
      Chieftain
      • Mar 2011
      • 6219

      #3
      I have mostly A-2 Flash Hiders and one Phantom Flash Hider. You’ll need a 5/8 X 24 TPI muzzle device so most any 7.62/308 are the same thread pitch. I’ve never seen any significant difference in A-2 FH so I just buy from a reputable retailer. On a 20” barrel with no suppressor either clamp on or set screw will work. If you buy a low profile set screw model fixed gas block they are more likely to fit inside the handguard, are usually cheaper and easier to find. My last two fixed .750 gas blocks were set screw models, one from CMMG and one from YHM. I always bed my gas blocks with thread locker like Loktite/Permatex. I usually use blue thread locker on the set screws for my Gas Block. So far all of mine have been gtg.

      I personally don’t like muzzle breaks because of the noise and blast. To me the recoil is light on the 6.5 Grendel I see no need for a muzzle break. If I were to try something different I might try a 3 prong flash hider but if your moving through thick brush these style of FH can more easily snag than an A-2 FH.
      Last edited by VASCAR2; 02-13-2018, 02:34 PM.

      Comment

      • Kswhitetails
        Chieftain
        • Oct 2016
        • 1914

        #4
        Originally posted by Jasunderland View Post
        My goal is next year to take a White tail out to 400 yards (which is where they all were this year and my old 35 Remington just cant make it that far).

        Thanks guys!
        Welcome aboard! Your story is almost identical to my own. The best buck I've ever seen was a few years ago on WIHA public hunting here in KS. He stood at ~400 yards staring at me when I had my 3-9 scoped BCM 5.56 in hand and I couldn't ethically take the shot.

        Are you asking about flash hiders specifically, or muzzle devices generally? I've personally used a 7.62 A2, and a SiCO tri-prong, for flash hiders. I've also used a SiCO ASR brake, and more recently the Larue Tranquillo 65 brake. I intend on using the Larue suppressor which drove the change. I found the tri-prong to work well, slightly better than the A2. Both were satisfactory. The Larue seems to out perform the ASR in both muzzle taming and back blast. I would recommend it even if one was not using the suppressor. If I wasn't using a suppressor, but wanted a good piece for both purposes, I've been looking toward the Aero Gamma. I may go ahead and put one on my BCM to replace the A2 on it. I really like the aesthetics and quality of the piece. My buddy has on on his 7.62, and it seems to do a very good job at both FH and brake functions, though it is intended as more of a brake than a FH.

        As far as a gas block, the Grendel is really low pressure, so I would say any quality piece would suffice well. Are you wanting an adjustable? You never mentioned budget, but from your list of parts, there are several brands that guys have mentioned they get good use from. JP makes a good clamp style block, SLR is a quality block as well, Superlative makes a great adjustable. To keep the costs down on my builds I used a Seekins adjustable (which turned out to be overkill, I never closed it down), and more recently have used a DiamondHead steel nitride set screw block and it works perfectly. If it wasn't for that block being on sale for $15, I would have bought a BCM low profile set-screw with confidence. I personally wouldn't start with an adjustable block unless you intend on your build being run suppressed with cans known to increase or change the system pressures and timing significantly. I don't think the clamp/set screw is much of a fight for Grendel due to the low pressures and typically lower rates of fire over the other caliber ARs; and both types work well if assembled correctly. I personally bed with blue, set the screws with red, and have never had an issue with my set screw pieces. I buy from known brands and like Nitrided blocks, personally I think the finish of the blocks is more important than the way they are affixed to the barrel. Grendel was designed to work well with typical gas systems and lengths similar to the 5.56/223 systems and works well in my experience wide open with a carbine buffer on all three of the main gas lengths. Given the barrel you mention, I am assuming rifle length gas? Is it dimpled for a set screw style from Faxon?

        My BCM Recce uses a set screw style, and personally I think if those guys trust them, I probably would do fine doing the same...

        My two cents, take it with what salt you feel it's worth. I am excited to see your build take shape, and your impression of the Grendel. Take your time, you seem well researched as far as parts. Honestly the Grendel typically performs so well that these two parts are minor in the long run. Grendel is easy to build well; read here on the forum about truing your receiver, bedding your barrel and gas block, and ask questions as you have done here. Again, welcome - and sit down and stay a while!
        Nothing kills the incentive of men faster than a healthy sense of entitlement. Nothing kills entitlement faster than a healthy sense of achievement.

        Comment

        • Tex Nomex
          Warrior
          • Dec 2017
          • 185

          #5
          I'm now into low profile clamp-on adjustable gas blocks. The lighter the better. Current favorite: Master of Arms Titanium. Might be able to pick one up cheaper under the manufacturer name "Next Intent Tactical." Also good: Superlative Arms. Clamp-on because "dimpling" . If you needed "operator reliability", you'd be pinning it.

          Flash hider/compensator/brake is so personal there's no right answer. Since you're hunting and it's a heavy barrel, start with a thread protector. Long range brake: APA Fat Bastard because it's regarded as one of the best out there and you are made of money.
          Last edited by Tex Nomex; 02-12-2018, 06:56 PM. Reason: sp
          "The best we can hope for concerning the people at large is that they be properly armed."
          -- Alexander Hamilton, The Federalist Papers at 184-188

          Comment

          • Dcommoncents
            Warrior
            • Jul 2017
            • 164

            #6
            Yeah, I should add that the gas block really isn't of too much concern in case my reply suggested otherwise. I was just trying to point out the pros and cons of different block styles as I seem them. Just align it with the barrel gas port properly and you'll be gtg. Shorter barrels can be finicky as I'm finding with my 12" 6.5G pistol build, but with a 20" barrel and what I presume is a rifle length gas system you shouldn't have any problems. I haven't even bothered with dimpling barrels for my set screw gas blocks and they haven't gone anywhere; just use loctite.

            I concur on the muzzle devices. You won't need anything fancy to have a soft shooting rifle with Grendel's low recoil and particularly that barrel length and gas system. In my opinion a brake will make the muzzle blast more uncomfortable than any recoil you would experience without it. Just make sure you get the correct thread size and pitch as the others mentioned.

            Comment

            • Jasunderland
              Unwashed
              • Jan 2018
              • 11

              #7
              Wow. Thanks guys. A lot of great info here! Can't wait to get it all put together and get out and Shoot!

              Comment

              • Jasunderland
                Unwashed
                • Jan 2018
                • 11

                #8
                Originally posted by Kswhitetails View Post
                read here on the forum about truing your receiver, bedding your barrel and gas block, and ask questions as you have done here. Again, welcome - and sit down and stay a while!
                Thanks man. I have the Brownells Lapping tool and plan to hand lap the upper. I have also read about different people bedding their barrel extension but have yet to find a solid how to... So if you can point me in a good direction! Thanks! And I know the feeling of having a deer just look at you knowing you can't do anything... I've taken a couple doe at 180 yards with my Level 35 Remington, but anything past that and the ethics and ballistics are questionable at best!

                Comment

                • Jasunderland
                  Unwashed
                  • Jan 2018
                  • 11

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Dcommoncents View Post
                  Yeah, I should add that the gas block really isn't of too much concern in case my reply suggested otherwise. I was just trying to point out the pros and cons of different block styles as I seem them. Just align it with the barrel gas port properly and you'll be gtg. Shorter barrels can be finicky as I'm finding with my 12" 6.5G pistol build, but with a 20" barrel and what I presume is a rifle length gas system you shouldn't have any problems. I haven't even bothered with dimpling barrels for my set screw gas blocks and they haven't gone anywhere; just use loctite.

                  I concur on the muzzle devices. You won't need anything fancy to have a soft shooting rifle with Grendel's low recoil and particularly that barrel length and gas system. In my opinion a brake will make the muzzle blast more uncomfortable than any recoil you would experience without it. Just make sure you get the correct thread size and pitch as the others mentioned.
                  I appreciate all the info from both posts! This place is a great resource! Thanks a lot!

                  Comment

                  • Jasunderland
                    Unwashed
                    • Jan 2018
                    • 11

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Tex Nomex View Post
                    Long range brake: APA Fat Bastard because it's regarded as one of the best out there and you are made of money.
                    $180... wow! I like the idea of the thread protector first and see!

                    Comment

                    • Bigs28
                      Chieftain
                      • Feb 2016
                      • 1786

                      #11
                      If you ever plan on getting a suppressor, get the muzzle device for that suppressor.

                      Comment

                      • ClutchAutomatic
                        Warrior
                        • Jan 2018
                        • 121

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Bigs28 View Post
                        If you ever plan on getting a suppressor, get the muzzle device for that suppressor.
                        I agree with this, buying nothing but dead air keymount brakes and flash hiders now that I've converted my omega can to this mount system. But my favorite flash hider is the be meyers pinned on a 13.7 barrel to make it legal.

                        Comment

                        • Keef
                          Warrior
                          • Jun 2017
                          • 296

                          #13
                          I like no muzzle device on my hunting rifles.

                          Comment

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