Loc-tite and gas block

[johnjohn]

Should loc-tite be utilized to secure the gas block to the barrel? I have screw type gas block. How much torque should I use to torque the screws?

Thanks

[LRRPF52]

You'll want to ensure your gas ports are lined up first. I use Red loc-tite to secure set screw gas blocks. Torque should not be crazy, like maybe 15-20 inch pounds, just enough to be snug. Do you have a dimpled or flattened barrel for the set screws?

When using Loc-tite, make sure it doesn't get inside the gas ports. To remove it, apply heat from a heat gun until you smell the Loc-tite going back to a liquid, and pull the block.

[Ridz]

What's the procedure to ensure the loctite doesn't get into the gas port when using a clamp on gas block? What's the best way to check that none got into the port, and how do you get it out if some did get into the port?

[johnjohn]

LRRPF52 - I have a Lilja AR740 barrel. It has a flattened barrel on the bottom side (opposite side of gas port). I was hesitant to use loc-tite just in case I get it in the gas port.

Ridz - very nice question. Hopefully someone can provide more info so we all can be better off.

Thanks

[Joseph5]

I put the lock tite in a U shape with the open end facing the muzzle. The bottom of the U is behind the gas port looking from chamber to muzzle so the gas block will not drag any loc time into the gas port when placed on the barrel. If you are really worried about the Loctite you can put a wax plug into the gas port on the barrel and the block and then after the Lactate has set/cured you can melt the wax out with a little heat.

[johnjohn]

Joseph5 - that's a brilliant idea.

Is all of this done with Red loc-tite or will blue work just fine? I don't want to go buy red loc-tite when I already have blue laying around in my garage.

[babue]

After I put the loctite on and install the block I run a patch into the barrel to the gas port area then put the straw on a can of spray carb cleaner and flush it through the gas block or gas tube and block. That will rinse out any loctite that gets into the port. I wipe out the barrel again after doing the flush.

[Klem]

Loctite-ing gas blocks...Overkill in my opinion.

If it won't work without it something is unusually wrong.

[LRRPF52]

Hi-power smiths have been doing it for years and years. Across a fleet of samples, it has proven to increase accuracy as well for some reason. Also helps prevent gas leakage. The other way is to approach it with a mechanical seal if you can.

[Klem]

Hi-power smiths have been doing it for years and years. Across a fleet of samples, it has proven to increase accuracy as well for some reason. Also helps prevent gas leakage. The other way is to approach it with a mechanical seal if you can.

Have they? First I've heard of it in 30 years ('and years').

My opinion is that you should use glue sparingly on AR's. If you are worried about a loose seal, get a tighter fitting block that taps on with a hammer or clamps. If it leaks slightly and the system still functions it's probably a blessing that you're not having to cope with that excess pressure at the receiver. If you think glue on blocks improves accuracy ('for some reason') then I have no counter argument for you here. That one is a non sequitur.

Sorry mate but I have to call it when I see it. I won't lose any sleep if you want to use glue on your block seal or advise others accordingly but the only glue on my guns are gas block screws and sometimes handguard screws.

[montana]

Have they? First I've heard of it in 30 years ('and years').

My opinion is that you should use glue sparingly on AR's. If you are worried about a loose seal, get a tighter fitting block that taps on with a hammer or clamps. If it leaks slightly and the system still functions it's probably a blessing that you're not having to cope with that excess pressure at the receiver. If you think glue on blocks improves accuracy ('for some reason') then I have no counter argument for you here. That one is a non sequitur.

Sorry mate but I have to call it when I see it. I won't lose any sleep if you want to use glue on your block seal or advise others accordingly but the only glue on my guns are gas block screws and sometimes handguard screws.

I have never had to use any glue on my gas blocks to seal them. They have functioned perfectly with out it. That said I can't see how it would do any harm if it doesnt get into the port. Something to think about for us anal types, I always used red loc-tite on my gas block screws. I wouldn't use blue loc-tite on my gas block screws because of the high heat being generated could render it useless.

[jurassic]

I use green loctite on the gas tubes, I haven't had a gas block leak around the barrel yet.

[Klem]

I use green loctite on the gas tubes, I haven't had a gas block leak around the barrel yet.

How do you know they have never leaked? And my point is, so what if they do?

If you decide your rifle needs a heavy buffer then surely you don't need every pound of (over) pressure available. I agree, it can't hurt to do this...until you decide to change barrels or blocks using a blowtorch and hammer. And I accept the idea that leaking gas does not sit right with the type of person that frequents these forums; precise personalities with expensive precision rigs.

I can also understand a situation where you need all the gas you can get to be reliable, for example a 300Blackout with carbine-length gas tube. However in other systems why maximize the gas return, only to then mitigate it with heavy buffers and expensive adjustable blocks?

[lead chucker]

How do you know they have never leaked? And my point is, so what if they do?

If you decide your rifle needs a heavy buffer then surely you don't need every pound of (over) pressure available. I agree, it can't hurt to do this...until you decide to change barrels or blocks using a blowtorch and hammer. And I accept the idea that leaking gas does not sit right with the type of person that frequents these forums; precise personalities with expensive precision rigs.

I can also understand a situation where you need all the gas you can get to be reliable, for example a 300Blackout with carbine-length gas tube. However in other systems why maximize the gas return, only to then mitigate it with heavy buffers and expensive adjustable blocks?

I agree it cant hurt but i have built a number of ARs from 556, 300blkout and grendel and have never used loctite on a gas block. Just made sure they are aligned properly and go.

[NugginFutz]

I agree it cant hurt but i have built a number of ARs from 556, 300blkout and grendel and have never used loctite on a gas block. Just made sure they are aligned properly and go.

My fellings, as well. A good fitting gas block will sometimes leak for a while, until carbon forms a seal.