Good load for 22" CSS barrel...any suggestions

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  • LR1955
    Super Moderator
    • Mar 2011
    • 3355

    #16
    Originally posted by drbs View Post
    LR55...again wow...thx for the reply and info...I hit the wheel of the tandem in front of me... totally my fault...no one hit me...the pavement did enough damage...but didn't break the collar bone.
    New concept for me that accuracy is not linear...Had my best MOA group at 300yds today.
    Sry but I have to ask...what is your opinion on best barrel or upper for Grendel?
    The flash suppressor is a result of drinking the cool aide of the precision rifle class...not giving away ur position...silly but...??
    I understand KISS...but sometimes forget
    DRBS:

    Tough accident. Those Peletons are unforgiving. Guys inches from each other going 20 plus MPH. I am always amazed that guys don't get killed on the various professional bike tours when someone touches another wheel in one of their Peletons. Injuries due to bicycle accidents are pretty severe.

    I don't really have an opinion on upper combinations other than having a high quality barrel and that the upper was made by someone who I trust to do a excellent job. The LW barrel you have from CSS has always been a good performer for guys here on the forum. I had two LW 28 inch barrels and they both were outstanding to 300 but performance really degraded past 300. From what I have learned, it is common for LW barrels but no one really knows why since they are well made. So, Lilja, Krieger, Hart, are a couple of the better companies. Satern if you can get them to follow through with the barrel. Get the top end barrel and the barrel no longer becomes something to question if you run into problems. The cartridge doesn't mean anything when it comes to quality barrels. Having the chamber cut properly does which is why a person ought to get the thing made by someone they trust to do a good job.

    I am not sure how a flash suppressor can improve performance unless you are shooting in limited visibility where it reduces flash. It reduces flash, doesn't get rid of it. US military powders use a bunch of chemicals designed to reduce flash. Civilian powders may or may not produce a bunch of flash. Single base powders really do light things up. Double base, not as much. Short barrels tend to light things up with longer barrels not so much. And I don't think a .223 bolt rifle made to shoot 40 grain varmint bullets is an ideal choice for a combat rifle. He, he, he. If the suppressor improves performance, or you have a need to reduce flash, by all means use one.

    300 is a challenging but ideal range to evaluate performance.

    LR55

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    • drbs
      Bloodstained
      • Dec 2014
      • 27

      #17
      thx for the reply LR55. I'm heading to the range tomorrow. I'll set up at 300yd and see what happens. I bought some 100 gr and 140 gr Vmax's. Do you have an opinion on which one I should try next?

      Comment

      • LR1955
        Super Moderator
        • Mar 2011
        • 3355

        #18
        Originally posted by drbs View Post
        thx for the reply LR55. I'm heading to the range tomorrow. I'll set up at 300yd and see what happens. I bought some 100 gr and 140 gr Vmax's. Do you have an opinion on which one I should try next?
        DR:

        You mean A MAX? The only VMAX 6.5 I saw on their web site was a 95 grain model.

        Both of the AMAX bullets are target bullets so they ought to shoot well. If you have a 8 turn twist, and winds that are hard to handle, the 140's will probably give you an edge. If you have a slower twist, like some Grendel barrels, then the 100 grain bullets may do better. It will be close, either way. At 300 given both bullets are target bullets with boat tails, things may be equal in the winds simply because the velocity of the 100 grain bullets will be much faster.

        Also, the lighter bullets give less recoil and that normally equates to less position movement during a string and higher confidence levels of the shooter.

        So, load both and see what happens.

        If you do have winds that are hard to stay on top of, evaluate the accuracy based on vertical spreads more than horizontal.

        You will have a zero change when you change bullets so expect it.

        Do call your shots as best as you can.

        LR55

        Comment

        • drbs
          Bloodstained
          • Dec 2014
          • 27

          #19
          Vmax is what I ment...
          again really good info...
          thx
          Last edited by drbs; 03-28-2015, 08:25 PM.

          Comment

          • drbs
            Bloodstained
            • Dec 2014
            • 27

            #20
            Ok another question...any suggestion for starting load for CFE223 and the 140 grainer. I see there's not that load combo in the Grendel load matrix
            Last edited by drbs; 03-28-2015, 08:25 PM.

            Comment

            • LRRPF52
              Super Moderator
              • Sep 2014
              • 8569

              #21
              If you built the upper yourself, and want the best accuracy you can get, you need a square receiver face for starters.

              You also want the barrel firmly bedded into the upper, using something like Blue Loc-tite.

              Also, it takes a bit of work to drive a larger caliber AR15 to get it to shoot well.

              Additionally, I would install the flash hider with little or no torque at all with thread locker, after de-greasing both sets of threads on the muzzle and muzzle device if you're set on that particular device.

              You will also want to mount a your optic with balanced torque loads on the cross bolts and ring screws, using a torque wrench with inch pound adjustments. I personally use the Wheeler FAT Wrench.
              NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

              CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor

              6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:

              www.AR15buildbox.com

              Comment

              • drbs
                Bloodstained
                • Dec 2014
                • 27

                #22
                LRRPR52...thanks for the info. I'm good to go on the scope mount. Everything is evenly torqued. The flash suppressor I'll work on. But I don't know much about bedding the barrel into the receiver. And squaring the receiver face I'm not 100% sure about. I assumed that the surface in front of the threads that needs to be exactly perpendicular the line of the bore...? I read one thread that by getting a high end upper receiver (Mega) they usually come pretty square. Am I getting this correct or am I showing my ignorance??

                Comment

                • drbs
                  Bloodstained
                  • Dec 2014
                  • 27

                  #23
                  well I went ahead and ordered a lapping tool

                  Comment

                  • NugginFutz
                    Chieftain
                    • Aug 2013
                    • 2622

                    #24
                    Originally posted by drbs View Post
                    ... I assumed that the surface in front of the threads that needs to be exactly perpendicular the line of the bore...? I read one thread that by getting a high end upper receiver (Mega) they usually come pretty square. Am I getting this correct or am I showing my ignorance??
                    That's pretty much the deal, drbs. Squaring the receiver thread face to the bore line reduces most off-axis alignment problems and creates a more solid union between barrel and upper. Due to the nature of the beast, most forged uppers will be be non-true, whereas a CNC machined upper is going to be much closer to true than a forged upper will likely ever be.

                    When you get your lapping tool, take your time. Remember that it will be a very tight fit, requiring the use of some light machine oil to get it to slide in. Lap in stages, checking your progress at each stage. You will see the shiny segment of the thread face work it's way around to the low spot as you progress. Make sure to remove any lapping compound from the work surfaces between stages to prevent any from getting inside the receiver.
                    If it's true that we are here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?

                    Comment

                    • drbs
                      Bloodstained
                      • Dec 2014
                      • 27

                      #25
                      Thx NugginFutz...again good info

                      Comment

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