Ejector Modification

[wheelguner]

Another tidbit from Accurate Shooter:

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2013/08/ar-ejector-mod-for-improved-reliability-with-larger-cartridges/

This is a mod that I have been doing because as a mechanical designer and machinist I hate sharp edges. I hadn't considered this benefit having never experienced the problem since I always do this as soon as I get a new AR.

Thought you all might find it of interest.

[Tedward]

I just compared this info to AA Hard Use Bolt, LBC, and all my others and none are like this. One Persons opinion I guess and everyone is entitled to one.

I haven't had feeding issues with my bolts so not sure why they are saying this too.

[LRRPF52]

I do it as a standard modification on the Grendel bolt face for the reasons the article describes. The author is Robert Whitley, who is well-known in the AR15 competitive and varminting community.

Here's another good article on accuracy: http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...ffers-answers/

[Tedward]

I do it as a standard modification on the Grendel bolt face for the reasons the article describes. The author is Robert Whitley, who is well-known in the AR15 competitive and varminting community.

Here's another good article on accuracy: http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...ffers-answers/

Very good article LRRPF52! There are quite of few good things I've been doing in my set ups and a few bad I might change.

A couple good points he posted: # 1 is a given so were on that path with the Lilja buy.

1) As we have on the Group Buy and note #7 he states a few things to consider on your order. Heavy barrel between the upper receiver and gas block, the Lilja buyers should read this. The 310, 311 and AR24 fit this criteria.

2) Upper Receiver on points 2,3 and 4: He recommends the tight fit upper as I have a few of that are Mega Arms SBU's. His looks just like them in the side charge model but I have the non side charge. The upper needs heated to expand the aluminum for the barrel extension to fit in and then when it cools, it clamps and holds the barrel even without the barrel nut. This takes care of items 2,3 and 4

3) Gas block like a JP or other clamp on's. No need for the notch like Lilja is providing if you use this type as recommended.

4) Comp should be symmetrical. I have JP's on my match 223 Wylde and is not symmetrical. Been having flyers, wonder if that's my issue. I think I'll try a few groups without the comp to see if that improves the groups. I have a Muzzle Break from Brownells on my 24" Grendel with good groups. I might get one of these to see if there is a difference in my groups on my Wylde. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...prod13070.aspx

All of his topics need to be considered for a good build and again, a great article for a great rifle.

[frank]

Thanks for the articles. I think that I will perform the ejector mod while I'm waiting on my barrel to come back. I've never taken the ejector out of a bolt. Is there anything to it, or is it as straight-forward as knocking out the roll pin?

[LRRPF52]

Thanks for the articles. I think that I will perform the ejector mod while I'm waiting on my barrel to come back. I've never taken the ejector out of a bolt. Is there anything to it, or is it as straight-forward as knocking out the roll pin?

It's best done with a special tool specifically for ejector removal (the hard, but easier part), and ejector installation (the really hard part). I have the tool, and it's a breeze with it. I just did one yesterday:

[sneaky one]

Make sure to polish the ejector end to a mirror like finish.

While disassembled you can cut 1-1.5 coils off of the ejector spring also.

[frank]

OK- So it sounds like it is a pain without the proper tool. Luckily, it looks like I can make the tool pretty easily. I'm too cheap to pay $50 for a tool that I likely won't use very often.

[frank]

Ejector mod done! It was easier than I thought, but I can see how hard it would be without a tool to compress the ejector spring. I ended up drilling a 1/2" hole into a scrap piece of 2x4 to hold the bolt. Put the 2x4 into my vice and used a .38spl case and a Quick Clamp to compress the ejector spring. Worked great!

[jurassic]

Why do you cut coils off the ejector spring?

Make sure to polish the ejector end to a mirror like finish.

While disassembled you can cut 1-1.5 coils off of the ejector spring also.

[NugginFutz]

Why do you cut coils off the ejector spring?

To reduce the force exerted on the ejected brass. This helps minimize dinged case mouths.

[LRRPF52]

The service rifle guys like it when their brass lands in one nice little pile right next to them, hence the reduced ejector spring power. A little bit of AR15 useful info:

The ejector spring and selector detent spring are supposed to be the same part #, so mark them when installing, and consider the one in your pistol grip as a replacement for the ejector spring when you change it out at around 4000rds. The main reason to service the ejector is due to brass shavings accumulation in the ejector channel, which will defeat the springs ability to compress eventually, causing FTEject malfs. A sharp extractor will make this happen more than a tuned extractor.

[frank]

Is the ejector the same part on the 6.5 bolt as the 5.56? After reviewing the photos in the ejector mod link, I didn't round the edge to the same extent. I really just knocked the sharp edge off and polished it as opposed to rounding it. I've got a couple of extra 5.56 bolts that I can mess around with and have a nicely rounded ejector ready if needed as long as they are the same part.

[LRRPF52]

Same parts. The part that is different as far as bolts go is the extractor.

[jurassic]

The tool from Brownells works well, I changed the ejector in my bolt that was jamming rounds into the feed ramps, and now the gun feeds perfectly. I replaced my ejector with a new on that did not have any machining marks on it, but when I get an extractor for my stripped Grendel Bolt, I'll mod the ejector before I install it. Thanks for the great tip!

Another tidbit from Accurate Shooter:

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2013/08/ar-ejector-mod-for-improved-reliability-with-larger-cartridges/

This is a mod that I have been doing because as a mechanical designer and machinist I hate sharp edges. I hadn't considered this benefit having never experienced the problem since I always do this as soon as I get a new AR.

Thought you all might find it of interest.