My howa is still in the game
#1
Ever since I build 6.5CM out of tikka sitting on krg bravo for target shooting ( it gets used more since I got the lefty version ) it just feels right to me .

The grendel was getting neglected and i decided to build mountain rifle . It wasn't easy to finds a shop that will willing to recontour the barrel to begin with . If I they were , I might as well scrap and start with a new barrel for the price they were asking . But I kept looking and found a shop that specializes in savage and owner charged me 100plus shipping both way for cut to 20" , profile to #6 contour and crown . I decide wth . If there are accuracy loss , I'm down 155 bucks . Plus 70 bucks on factory take off stock I purchased from here . I put on spare scope and rings and waiting on some range time soon if time permits .

Before
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Now
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#2
Nice clean and functional. Looks very good to me.
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#3
Nice. I’d like to try one in a chassis some day, but my factory configuration is super light and handy. And I like the ergonomics of the factory stock
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#4
^ I will have to agree with you . It weights in at 8lb.14oz w/o ammo . I noticed D.I.P makes bottom metal and do you think it's worth upgrading ?
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#5
I used bottom metal on both my Howa rifles and think they are great. I went with Jefferson Outdoors, he does real good work.
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#6
Six5x39 Wrote:I noticed D.I.P makes bottom metal and do you think it's worth upgrading ?
If you are using the factory bottom plastic, yes. I have both DIP w/ factory mags and Jefferson conversion to CZ mags. They are both good.
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#7
I bought the DIP conversion from a member on here and I really like it over the factory plastic
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#8
If you are happy with the plastic magazine, than you should get the DIP trigger guard because it is a worthwhile upgrade.
It at least allows you to torque your action screws without cracking your trigger guard.
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#9
Yea I already have 2 factory plastic magazines and I have no issues using them . Thanks ! I will probably go with Dip . Liking their trigger guard more . I'll have to test the accuracy first before I dump money on bottom metal . I'll report back .
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#10
If you don’t mind giving up a little capacity, the factory mag modification coupled with the DIP bottom metal works well. You end up with a lightweight, svelte little rifle that is also more rugged and handy than it’s factory configuration
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#11
I was able to put some morning range time . Once zeroed , I tested using factory American gunner bulk ammo and hornady SST . It didn't like the sst much . In overall I had slightly better groups with the howa chassis for sure . I did notice the barrel is touching the facotry stock . I used dollar bill and slipped under the barrel but it was getting caught . Do you guys think if I sand em down so barrel isn't touching , maybe It could help with the accuracy ? Thanks
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#12
Six5x39 Wrote:I was able to put some morning range time . Once zeroed , I tested using factory American gunner bulk ammo and hornady SST . It didn't like the sst much . In overall I had slightly better groups with the howa chassis for sure . I did notice the barrel is touching the facotry stock . I used dollar bill and slipped under the barrel but it was getting caught . Do you guys think if I sand em down so barrel isn't touching , maybe It could help with the accuracy ? Thanks

It wouldn't hurt to sand it some but let me tell you what I had to do.

The barrel on my Howa Mini was cockeyed in the stock when I received it. The action screws were not very tight, so I used a torque wrench to tighten them. But that was a mistake. I tightened the screws to the spec (55 inlb) that was in the user instruction/safety procedure pamphlet that came with the rifle. The rear hole in the plastic trigger guard broke at that torque. I called Legacy Sports & the lady I talked to asked a gunsmith there what the torque should be. She said the gunsmith told her, "No more than 35 inlb." They sent me a new trigger guard at no cost to me.

When I got the new trigger guard & torqued the screws to 35 inlb, the barreled action was still cockeyed in the stock. The left side of the barrel was pressed against the stock. I loosened the action screws & found there was a lot of slop between the stock & action. I placed a thick piece of cardboard between the stock & barrel & re-tightened the screws. After removing the cardboard shim, the barrel was still on the left side of the barrel channel but it wasn't touching anymore. A dollar bill would slip all the way from the tip of the stock to the action. If I left things as is, I would have to remember to use the cardboard shim every time I removed & replaced the action. Or... I could bed the action to the stock so it would be in the same place every time. I did that.

I wasn't thrilled with the plastic trigger guard so I got Oregunsmithing's aluminum bottom metal along with their lightweight composite Howa Mini stock. The heavy 20" barrel wouldn't fit in the stock! I had to sand out the barrel channel to get it to fit. That fixed the stock but I had nothing but trouble with the bottom metal magazine box trying to get it aligned in the stock so it would properly feed ammo from the magazine box. I now have Jefferson Outdoors' bottom metal which works great! Ammo feeding is slick!
I refuse to be victimized by notions of virtuous behavior.
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#13
Thanks Bob ! Since Dip bottom metal is on the way , I'll grind the channel area down and retest with same ammo . Guess mean while I can make some lead free workup loads as well .
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