Ejector Marks

[Londerko]

[grendelnubi]

I'm not an expert but I have experienced ejector marks that are moon shaped and some that are full circle. I believe the shinny ones should be respected. Also if you see an ejector marks combined with a extractor mark on the opposite side, you better stop right there. I have not seen any indications of flat primers even with ejector swipes but I mainly use the CCI450 which are a little more thicker than standard primers. I have also experienced ejector swipes using American Gunner ammo. This was during the summer months in Texas, it can get hot.

What is acceptable is a personal decision. For me it depends on how you intend to use the firearm. If it is experiencing a slight primer swipe and will be a hunting only cartridge, shot maybe 10 times a year, it should be OK. If it is a plinking or range gun, there is really no reason to push your luck, if you are seeing ejector swipes, back off a little.

What can cause it? Outside of just high pressures, it could be the bolf, ejector itself or gas system related.

My bolt is a Monster bolt and it does not slide easily into the bolt carrier even with a good cleaning and polishing the bolt carrier. Its like the exhaust rings are too big or something. This could in my opinion cause issues if the load is right on the edge. Also bolt lug timing could cause some issues which could be related to the gas block or rifle gas system. I would think that if the bolt begins to unlock too soon it could cause excessive pressure between the bolt face and case that may present itself in the form of ejector swipes.

Again, I am not an expert, I have only been reloading for about a year.....

[Londerko]

Thank you for the very informative response

[centerfire]

It depends on the gun. Some guns chew brass and it doesn't matter how soft they are. None of my guns leave ejectors marks unless they are over pressure.

[LRRPF52]

Depends on brass too. Some brass is soft that loves to flow into the ejector channel, where Lapua wouldn't even show where the channel shadow is on the case head.

Some of it is a gun that is out of timing with the cyclic rate, where the gas is so excessive that it violently extracts the case while it's still obturated and hasn't rebounded yet.

When that happens, the bolt rotation shears the slightly-extruded brass that has pushed into the ejector channel, especially against a sharp channel edge.

When you see brass form a noticeable protrusion from the case head rather than just a polished shape, it's generally not a good sign, but if one were to pick up spent military brass, you see it quite often.

Gas guns introduce several different events that are not present on a bolt action.

For example, the factory load Federal brass exhibits more ejector signs fired through my AR15s than when I load it beyond SAAMI MAP in a bolt gun with a heavier bullet. My once-fired Federal brass hand loads with 129gr SST came out looking new, with tight primer pockets.

For those of us who reload, we like to take care of our brass, especially when shooting Lapua brass or new Hornady and Starline brass. There are several things we can do to ensure a more smooth feeding, extraction, and ejection cycle to add longevity to the brass.

* Gas system tuning
* Action/recoil spring selection
* Bolt carrier selection
* Bolt work
* Barrel Extension work
* Extractor work
* Ejector work
* Ejector spring work
* Ejection port and brass deflector insulation

Of all those things, tuning the gas system or configuring your parts selection accordingly is probably the biggest factor in preventing ejector extrusion by controlling the cyclic rate. I do most of them personally, sans the Velcro on my Brunton bumps (brass deflector) and maybe clipping the ejector springs.

ETA: I just looked at some of my Federal brass shot through my 12" suppressed, where I adjusted the gas settings for the first time with my Bootleg Carrier.

On the fully open position, I can see ever so slightly, tiny little ejector channel shadows, but nothing I would worry about.

Once I had the gas setting set all the way to fully suppressed (choked), guess what? No signs at all.

That's with CLGS, .068" port, the heavy little spring with the Maxim PDW brace, tiny 2.9 ounce buffer, Bootleg Carrier, Group Buy bolt.

[1Shot]

Yes softness of brass in the case makes a BIG difference. With both of my AR rifles that are totally different I got slight ejector swipe with factory Hornady 123 SST ammo. When I got some new Hornady cases and started some load work up even middle of the road loads when fired in the new cases had slight ejector swipe marks. After the first firing of either of these cases no more swipes unless you were right at or a hair over book max loads. Everything depending on manual used as well as bullet used. For example loads that were perfectly OK with 120 Sierra Pro Hunter bullets were way too hot with 120 Speer Gold Dot. I had to drop 1/2 grain down with the Speer.

It is my thinking that new Hornady cases are soft but after the first firing they harden up some. Hornady cases are the only cases I have fired.

[PA_Probe]

My howa mini leaves ejector circles on all my new hornady brass. This was at low end Nosler load data using 100gr NBT. I did a second loading with the same brass and got a second circle. It's not raised and no swipe either so I think it's just soft brass or a stiff ejector.

[cwlongshot]

My howa mini leaves ejector circles on all my new hornady brass. This was at low end Nosler load data using 100gr NBT. I did a second loading with the same brass and got a second circle. It's not raised and no swipe either so I think it's just soft brass or a stiff ejector.

That's because a bolt action isn't trying to remove the empty case during the pressure curve... If you where to see such swipes, you would be MONSTROUSLY over pressure and likely have many others issues.

CW