Ok my reading online says I can reload the wolf brass if I resize the neck 2 or 3 times and its worn out.
looking at shooting a lot more, must start reloading
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Originally posted by yocan View PostOk my reading online says I can reload the wolf brass if I resize the neck 2 or 3 times and its worn out.
You can full length resize Wolf and it will work. You can only expect 2-3 reloadings with that brass before you will start to see the primer pockets loosen up, which is when you should get rid of it. If you use light loads it will last a bit longer.
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Originally posted by rasp65 View Postyocan As you can see there are lots of choices available to you as far as reloading tools. A lot of it is personal preference I have used almost all brands of dies(except Forster) in my 30+ years reloading and have found Redding to be the best. Whatever you choose will work but there are a couple of things that are very important to remember when loading for the Grendel. Make sure you size the case correctly to fit your chamber, a cartridge case gauge is a good tool to have. You will also want to measure at what length to seat your bullets for your rifle. I outlined the method that has worked well for me in this post.http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showt...jump-amp-crimp
Also, the cartridge case gauge is very helpful. Alexander Arms sells them, go to there, On-Line Store/6.5 Grendel/Brass & Reloading http://www.alexanderarms.com/index.php/products.htmlLast edited by Guest; 01-12-2012, 09:25 PM.
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Bummed about Forster CoAx
Originally posted by stokesrj View PostHi Bill,
If your going to get a Forster CoAx there are a couple of negatives you should be aware of. It is a quality piece of equipment but the shell holder jaws require reversing them between many calibers and for us the most common, 6.5 Grendel and .223 require they be reversed to change between them which is a tedious chore. It requires unscrewing two allen head screws and maintaining control of two captured springs, fail to do this and you are looking for a spring that you heard hit the far wall of the room but not sure where it went from there.
<SNIP>
The probability of losing one of the springs in that operation is high. Reviewers have suggested that a shop rag over the jaws as they are removed, will catch most of the flying springs. I'd rather not have flying springs in the first place.
I've got two RockChucker presses side-by-side on my bench, and both are set up with the Hornady Lock-N-Load adapters. My Forster dies are set up for MY rifles in .223 (AR & Bolt action) and 6.5 Grendel (AR). I use the older, sloppier, worn-out RockChucker to deprime and sometimes seat bullets for OTHER people's rifles (because I have to adjust the dies anyway). The newer, tighter RockChucker sizes and seats all the precision stuff.
There's a Hornady Lock-N-Load Progressive to the left of the precision RockChucker that does .40 S&W (with LOTS of difficulties ejecting completed rounds) and .45 ACP (without much hassle).
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My 1st press was a Lee single stage, a set of Dies & a set of scales. I used it for 6 months and then ordered a Dillon 550B Press & Dies, that was back in 1987 & it's not let me down yet!! They have a No BS Garantee and they will replace any broken part Free. Dillons Customer Service is Excellent & they will save you time & money when changing to a different caliber. The newer 550 Progressive comes with more advanced features than my old one did. Now you can get a case feeder for it if you want to speed up your loading process and several other features. You can load rifle & pistol with the press, get a set of dies, a good scale and caliper then , a cartridge case gauge is a tool that you Really Need to have...
Good luck with your choices..
Eric
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