Annealing question

[FLshooter]

[Harpoon1]

https://youtu.be/qP4PBnX6cZ8

Anyway, if your jumping them and you insist, this is a pretty decent tutorial.

https://youtu.be/fiIrLvAUh6o

[FLshooter]

[Popeye212]

Put this on the inside of the case neck when it changes color you have reached the right temp. I am salt bath annealing but about to change to annealeez. Not that it doesn't work but the stuff dangerous. https://www.amazon.com/Tempil-Tempil...s%2C169&sr=8-1

[tdbru]

FLshooter,
i hope you ordered the small wheels to go with your annealeez. that's what the GR takes. as far as color, that varies quite a bit depending upon ambient light. i run it in the garage with the doors closed and the lights out. cases come out looking just like Lapua brass does when you buy it new. i haven't gotten a chance yet to put more than 2 or 3 reloads on any 6.5G case yet. one thing i did notice was on some 6.5x55 ammo that i had shot the cases maybe 5 or more times, then reloaded again, then let the ammo sit for 10 years, when i went back and shot it i had about 50% neck splits. so i think the annealing is proper not only to ensure uniform neck tension, but long term reliability of the case as well.
-tdbru

[Harpoon1]

[Mark611]

I just annealed 100 pieces of new Hornady brass, I used a propane torch and a 7/16's socket to hold the brass from being to hot on my fingers, I used 5 seconds of time turning the brass on the flame, I watched the case turn color as I did this, when the heat run color got the shoulder line I pulled the case off the fire, and they turned out perfect, I compared them to some factory annealed PMC 223/5.56 loaded ammo I have and they look exactly the same on the color of the annealing, I air cooled them instead of dropping them into a water bucket like I have done before, I just got done sizing them after a week since I annealed them, and they sized effortlessly as they should have, I had my sizer set to the factory shoulder bump, from out of the box ammo form Hornady, but I think on new brass annealing for the first set up on case prep cannot hurt IMO, some say its a waste of time? but for me I think its a good start, I'm use to loading for precision bolt action rifles, and turning necks {etc} so I cannot help but to apply the methods I use for this type of loading to my semi autos, just my 2ct

[FLshooter]

FLshooter,
i hope you ordered the small wheels to go with your annealeez. that's what the GR takes. as far as color, that varies quite a bit depending upon ambient light. i run it in the garage with the doors closed and the lights out. cases come out looking just like Lapua brass does when you buy it new. i haven't gotten a chance yet to put more than 2 or 3 reloads on any 6.5G case yet. one thing i did notice was on some 6.5x55 ammo that i had shot the cases maybe 5 or more times, then reloaded again, then let the ammo sit for 10 years, when i went back and shot it i had about 50% neck splits. so i think the annealing is proper not only to ensure uniform neck tension, but long term reliability of the case as well.
-tdbru

[Kswhitetails]

My standard wheels work just fine?

[LRRPF52]

My opinion/experience on split necks is that they are mostly caused by tooling marks on expander balls and/or use of Imperial Sizing Wax too thick.

I've had one split neck with Lapua brass when I was using Imperial Wax on a roller pad. I think I was pushing my necks around way too much.

I switched to Hornady One-Shot spray-on lube and haven't had an issue since, and that was many years ago.

[FLshooter]

My opinion/experience on split necks is that they are mostly caused by tooling marks on expander balls and/or use of Imperial Sizing Wax too thick.

I've had one split neck with Lapua brass when I was using Imperial Wax on a roller pad. I think I was pushing my necks around way too much.

I switched to Hornady One-Shot spray-on lube and haven't had an issue since, and that was many years ago.

[Popeye212]

I use the Lanolin mix and keep Imperial for small stuff.

[Happy2Shoot]

Ok, let's stop the parroting of bad information. Cartridge brass annealing starts at 800 F. Grain size grows until 1200 F. Minimum hardness, or max softness is 1400 F. Google ASM handbook volume 4 heat treating

[centerfire]

I annealed all of my new Hornady Grendel brass because seating resistance was so variable. Once annealed the brass felt uniform.

[Kswhitetails]

I want neck tension uniformity. In a gas gun, annealing is about all you can do for return on effort here. Since you can't neck size only and achieve reliable feeding in them. I've abandoned the bushing die idea as I now have 7 Grendels, and don't want to try and keep track of 5 bushings... headaches aren't why I shoot.

I told my son to save up for the Redding bushing die for his Howa, and if I get a bolt, I'll do the same. Until then, annealing means that at least every firing the necks are all uniform in hardness and will much more uniformly grip the bullets on seating.

I use the annealez, and am a happy camper. I don't use the tempilaque. I turn off the lights at night, and run it until the neck is pretty pink in the dark. Should put me around the middle of the anneal temp window. Then I write the setting down, turn on the lights, and let a full hopper run.

I anneal after firing, before I decap and wet tumble. The cases look cool before tumbling, like new cases after.