Wd 40 dry lube

[gwtx]

Anyone ever use WD-40 300052 Specialist Dirt and Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE Spray for case lube?
I bought a can for another purpose, but out of curiosity tried it in place of "OneShot", which I have used without any problems for a long time. The WD 40 dry seems to work just as well as the one shot, however, I only did a few cases. The one shot is twice the price, and while it does go a long way, I like saving money, and the WD stuff doesn't attract dust and tiny spherical powder granules inside the neck if you don't get them clean after lubing. Just wondering if the PTFE (teflon) would have any effect on the neck tension. I doubt there is very much teflon in the stuff. Just a thought.

[Klem]

gwtx,

Spray normal WD40 anywhere near a primer and it kills it. It's like nerve gas and just as potent. Have you fired any yet? It might be a completely different formula so worth a try.

[peak98]

[Grendelshooter]

1 part lanolin to 10 parts alcohol.
Cheap, easy, and very effective.

[gwtx]

Thanks for the replies. Klem, I clean with "carb & intake cleaner" and blow out the primer pockets with high pressure shop air, then set them on fire to burn off any remaining cleaner. This also gets them nice and dry.
after sizing, and I'm pretty sure it is nothing like regular WD40. It leaves no detectable residue. I usually only load 20 rds at a time, and I think I have shot a couple boxes of the loads that were sized with the "dry" stuff. I've not had any failures from it,,,,yet. I may use it on a couple cases and load & shoot'em to see if there is any effect...when time allows.

Grendelshooter, I used that recipe for a while. Lubes great, hard to get it off the inside of the necks, and the spherical powders are drawn to it like a magnet. I really like the OneShot, but hate to pay $20 for a can, even though it lasts a long time. I used the "HEET" fuel additive (99% IPA) when I mixed up my lanolin lube. I did wrinkle a couple cases by allowing too much to build up in the die. Thanks for the reply.

[LR1955]

Thanks for the replies. Klem, I clean with "carb & intake cleaner" and blow out the primer pockets with high pressure shop air, then set them on fire to burn off any remaining cleaner. This also gets them nice and dry.
after sizing, and I'm pretty sure it is nothing like regular WD40. It leaves no detectable residue. I usually only load 20 rds at a time, and I think I have shot a couple boxes of the loads that were sized with the "dry" stuff. I've not had any failures from it,,,,yet. I may use it on a couple cases and load & shoot'em to see if there is any effect...when time allows.

Grendelshooter, I used that recipe for a while. Lubes great, hard to get it off the inside of the necks, and the spherical powders are drawn to it like a magnet. I really like the OneShot, but hate to pay $20 for a can, even though it lasts a long time. I used the "HEET" fuel additive (99% IPA) when I mixed up my lanolin lube. I did wrinkle a couple cases by allowing too much to build up in the die. Thanks for the reply.

gwtx;

You use a high pressure hose to clean the lube off the brass then burn the brass to get any residual lube removed?

LR55

[gwtx]

gwtx;

You use a high pressure hose to clean the lube off the brass then burn the brass to get any residual lube removed?

LR55

After I posted that, I thought, that wasn't very well explained. Maybe I ought to edit it all off and start over. Sorry for any confusion. After sizing, I place the brass on a metal tray, and spray the carb/brake cleaner on, and directly into the case mouths. This cleans the lube off very well. Then to get rid of the excess carb/brake cleaner, I ignite the tray, brass and all. Only takes about 3 seconds to burn off the cleaner. The brass doesn't get "HOT", just warm and dry to the touch. Then
" I blow out the primer pockets and inside the case with high pressure shop air. The residue in the pockets usually comes out well enough that using a pocket cleaning tool is not needed, and the powder doesn't cling to the inside of the case mouth when pouring. Just what I do. Not sure what happened to that original post, it was all "out of whack" :

[Klem]

Seems unusual to remove burnt carbon off brass by cleaning but then burning something else on it. Is there any residual coating?

[LR1955]

After I posted that, I thought, that wasn't very well explained. Maybe I ought to edit it all off and start over. Sorry for any confusion. After sizing, I place the brass on a metal tray, and spray the carb/brake cleaner on, and directly into the case mouths. This cleans the lube off very well. Then to get rid of the excess carb/brake cleaner, I ignite the tray, brass and all. Only takes about 3 seconds to burn off the cleaner. The brass doesn't get "HOT", just warm and dry to the touch. Then
" I blow out the primer pockets and inside the case with high pressure shop air. The residue in the pockets usually comes out well enough that using a pocket cleaning tool is not needed, and the powder doesn't cling to the inside of the case mouth when pouring. Just what I do. Not sure what happened to that original post, it was all "out of whack" :

gw:

Got it.

LR55

[gwtx]

Seems unusual to remove burnt carbon off brass by cleaning but then burning something else on it. Is there any residual coating?

No, it's really just a bit more than a flash, and the cleaner is gone. It's just something I started doing. Probably not a real
earth shaking benefit. I'll probably just buy another can of one shot, and keep using that. It DOES leave a residue that attracts the fine grain spherical powders, and so I have to clean the mouths, one at a time. One of the reasons I don't use spherical powders much any more. I use AR COMP. I'm just about down to nothing but "Grendelling" hogs, and shoot or load very little else.

[Klem]

It's not ideal that your case prep routine dictates what powders you use.

I only use One Shot for handgun. Similar to you, I don't want more or less spray in some necks, and on some sides, and not others. Instead, I roll 5 or 6 at a time on a pad using RCBS Case Lube. Then after sizing rub the whole lot in an old towel for 30 secs to get most of it off. Nothing gets into the case necks to interfere with start friction and in that respect every case is consistent. It takes longer than a quick spray from a can but, swings and roundabouts.

[Grendelshooter]

Thanks for the replies. Klem, I clean with "carb & intake cleaner" and blow out the primer pockets with high pressure shop air, then set them on fire to burn off any remaining cleaner. This also gets them nice and dry.
after sizing, and I'm pretty sure it is nothing like regular WD40. It leaves no detectable residue. I usually only load 20 rds at a time, and I think I have shot a couple boxes of the loads that were sized with the "dry" stuff. I've not had any failures from it,,,,yet. I may use it on a couple cases and load & shoot'em to see if there is any effect...when time allows.

Grendelshooter, I used that recipe for a while. Lubes great, hard to get it off the inside of the necks, and the spherical powders are drawn to it like a magnet. I really like the OneShot, but hate to pay $20 for a can, even though it lasts a long time. I used the "HEET" fuel additive (99% IPA) when I mixed up my lanolin lube. I did wrinkle a couple cases by allowing too much to build up in the die. Thanks for the reply.

[gwtx]

Thanks Klem. I appreciate the exchange of info on this forum. I've used the ole green pad and lube. Don't really remember why I started with the Homemade stuff, and the one shot. The RCBS lube works fine. I was just curious if anyone had used the WD40 dry lube. They have several new products in their "Specialist" line. I originally bought it to lube my Grendel magazines. Especially the Elander when it was new. It helped.
"It's not ideal that your case prep routine dictates what powders you use." Not a big deal, as I said, I'm not loading anything else these days, and if it weren't for shootin hogs, I might not be loading anything.
Thanks again for your input to the forum,,,Gary

[FLshooter]

[DDRanch]

RCBS lube pad & lube for the last 25 years or so, and Hornady One shot for any pistol brass.

Finished loaded rounds get a quick tumble in corn cob and Nu-Finish polish.