So I have a new Grendel arriving. I plan on 100% handloading for this cartridge as I do of all my cartridges. Living in California I refuse to subject myself to background checks for ammo purchases. I plan to start with a 123gr OTM on top of CFE223. I plan on making a ladder in .3 gr increments looking for accuracy nodes. I have numerous loading manuals that I utilize in reloading and have yet to see this question answered in one of my manuals. My question is: what load or what percent of a max load should be used with hand loads when breaking in a barrel? Just enough to cycle it? Something more than that? It seems kind of crazy work up a ladder until the barrel is properly broken in. I know this is a weird question because normally I would just go buy some steel case wolf to break in the barrel. Thanks in advance for your advice.
How to break in a barrel with handloads
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Wouldn't break it in with steel case but I will buy a box of Hornady Black and use that. Reloads are cheaper and should not make a difference. Last two I broke in with load development. Might as well get two things done at once realizing I have to go back and verify... Course that means I have to shoot some more...
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The only 'breaking' a barrel needs is to be properly fouled with copper and I imagine that occurs in the first few rounds. A quality barrel will not be a cheese grater so may only take four or five to be sure. It doesn't take a hot load to fill the micro-pores with copper. Factory loads can be hot. If you are hand-loader why not load 10 loads 10% below SAAMI.
I shoot the first round through every new barrel from the hip while looking away (for safety) and then shoot as normal after that.Last edited by Klem; 06-14-2020, 09:57 PM.
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Originally posted by Klem View PostThe only 'breaking' a barrel needs is to be properly fouled with copper and I imagine that occurs in the first few rounds. A quality barrel will not be a cheese grater so may only take four or five to be sure. It doesn't take a hot load to fill the micro-pores with copper.
I shoot the first round through every new barrel from the hip while looking away (for safety) and then shoot as normal after that.
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So folks must think that the following recommended barrel break-in for Criterion barrels is a waste of time then?
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I think this is a great thing to do if your barrel is not already hand polished.
finalfinishcat-642x220.jpg
David Tubb's FinalFinish Bullet Kits
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Originally posted by Red*Lion View PostSo folks must think that the following recommended barrel break-in for Criterion barrels is a waste of time then?
https://criterionbarrels.com/media/b...-in-procedure/
Non of the rifles/barrels I have now had a break in done and all of them shoot sub moa. Only one of those barrels is a custom made barrel the rest are rack grade.
Only thing I do is shoot about 200 rounds of factory ammo to get the rifle functioning and some base velocity's.
After that I don't clean the bore till the groups start to open up, that normally takes a few hundred rounds for that to happen.
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Originally posted by Klem View PostThe only 'breaking' a barrel needs is to be properly fouled with copper and I imagine that occurs in the first few rounds. A quality barrel will not be a cheese grater so may only take four or five to be sure. It doesn't take a hot load to fill the micro-pores with copper. Factory loads can be hot. If you are hand-loader why not load 10 loads 10% below SAAMI.
I shoot the first round through every new barrel from the hip while looking away (for safety) and then shoot as normal after that.
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Originally posted by Crunchy Taco View PostThank you all for the info. I enjoyed the spirited discussion on barrel break in. I am going to really like this community. I think I will just work up a 5 shot ladder clean the barrel and then reconfirm the data with another 5 shot ladder. I will be shooting the first from the hip. ????
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