Reloading Tips Thread

[Lemonaid]

Post your great tips for reloaders here!
To get things started, save the black plastic containers Ramon noodles come in (Maruchan Yakisoba or Nissin Chow Mein for exaple).
Wash with soap and water after eating the meal. They are stackable, light weight and are a great size for holding brass for each stage of prep. Multiple uses and are essentially free.

I might of read this one on the forum: Put a piece of masking tape on the lid of each container of powder and write the powder name on the tape. When putting the powder into the hopper, take the piece of tape off the lid and stick it on the hopper lid or body.
When done reloading, empty the hopper to the original container and move tape from hopper to container lid. This will ensure that you know what powder is in the hopper and that it goes back to the right container.

Save your primer containers when empty, the back side makes a good epoxy mixing tray for small amounts.

Have a fired case ready for checking at what OAL compression of powder begins with different bullets. Put in the desired amount of powder in the fired case, put bullet in case and viola! measure with dial calipers with light tension. Bullet will (should) slip back out of the case and you are ready for the next test.

A few more from the forum: Dryer sheets for anti static on plastic funnels, hoppers, etc.

When seating the bullet stop part way, rotate case 180 degrees and seat the rest of the way for improved concentricity.

For the sizing die before final lock down take a very flat piece of metal (with a hole in it if the decapping pin is installed) and place on the shell holder. Carefully raise the ram until it contacts the die (taking up slack between the die threads and the press threads) then lock the die down while still under slight ram pressure.

Looking forward to some handy info from the Horde!

[A5BLASTER]

Take very detailed notes. Document everything no matter how small a point of data is.

Good notes is good science is good loading.

[65GbySeven]

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c63/s...tainer--large/

Lastly, do your research on powder projectile combinations. Ask the manufacturers, ask YouTube-USE CAUTION WITH THIS RESOURCE-then verify with the Horde, most have tried some...some have tried all. Then safely work your ladders with .2-.3 grain increments with chrono if possible.

[Mad Charlie]

"I might of read this one on the forum: Put a piece of masking tape on the lid of each container of powder and write the powder name on the tape. When putting the powder into the hopper, take the piece of tape off the lid and stick it on the hopper lid or body.
When done reloading, empty the hopper to the original container and move tape from hopper to container lid. This will ensure that you know what powder is in the hopper and that it goes back to the right container."

I use blank business cards, I write the powder info and charge weight and put it IN the powder measure. I don't re-use the other side of the card unless I am really getting low, and then I cover old info with marker.

Case processing: I use the rectangular plastic containers with snap on covers that lunch meats come in to hold cases for processing. They are also useful for storage, and free after you eat lunch.

Since I don't always complete a process, depending on how many cases I'm working on, I note on one of my blank business cards where I am in the process and put it in the container with the appropriate cases.

[Mad Charlie]

These cheap endoscopes that many of us are using for bore scopes are also useful for inspecting inside new and fired cases for defects and irregularities.

[glk45]

Take very detailed notes. Document everything no matter how small a point of data is.

Good notes is good science is good loading.

The older you get the more important this is. Don't ask me how i know.

[JASmith]

Flagging the powder dispenser with the current powder is a good idea.

I have the luxury of storing my powder away from the loading bench. My practice is to have ONLY the canister I am working with in the bench.

I also promptly empty the dispenser when finished with the current batch. That minimizes the possibility of an inadvertent canister switch.

[FRB6.5]

Electronic scales should have their calibration checked with weights often. Drift from temperature, air pressure, static, electric current issues etc. are real.

[Klem]

Electronic scales should have their calibration checked with weights often. Drift from temperature, air pressure, static, electric current issues etc. are real.

That can be true but I use the pan as a check weight. I have an RCBS Chargemaster with the two 50gn weights and a metal pan that weighs 136.7gns. If, after the initial calibration of the scale the pan weighs anything other than 136.7 I repeat the calibration until it does. The Chargemaster wont throw the next load until it returns to zero and while there might be a range of pan weight it will accept it's well below the change in powder that needs to occur before you see a change of results on the target. The zeroing of the pan means you are check-weighing the scales with the pan every throw.

I also use a DC power pack instead of variable AC power from the Mains. A Li-ion battery pack with a ferrite sleeve as close to the scales as it can go, to smooth the power supply and minimise RF interference. And shutting the door to the shed on a windy day. There a small section of McDonalds straw taped to the tube to even the powder dispensing; it helps with stick powders.

[pinetreebbs]

Use an electronic powder dispenser like a Chargemaster or one of the other makes that have a powder drain?

Grab the powder hopper lid, using a Sharpie marker write, "Check the Powder Drain!" on the lid.

This is to remind you to make sure the drain is closed before filling the powder hopper.

[Mad Charlie]

It only took one time leaving the drain open for me to learn to check that drain, what a freakin' mess with ball powder. That s%^t gets everywhere, and there is a lot of stuff on my bench for it to get under.