cleaning fired brass 101

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  • StoneHendge
    Chieftain
    • May 2016
    • 2018

    #31
    Eggman, I have a 16" 300 Blk for home defense and pretty much exclusively use 110 gr Nosler Varmageddons with Winchester 296/Hodgdon H110 (magnum pistol powders). You're going to like 110's in it!. I push them at 2320 and the shoulder punch is significantly less than even 150s in the high teens. Looks like the Midway 2nds you have on the way are VMax's. Both the Varmageddons and VMax's are nasty bullets against soft targets. All of the testing i've done vs a 16" 5.56 with 55s approaching 3k shows the 300 smacking a lot harder - be it steel plates, small watermelons and other various sundry items from the produce department or household items that made a detour to a "range" before heading to the dumpster.

    Don't fret over SDs if your truly making a defense load unless you're worried about getting in a shootout with cover at ranges over 100 yards - just find something accurate. Mine has a red dot zero'd at 50 yards (it shoots on a 3 MOA red dot at that range) and it holds minute of bad guy (ie, an IPSC) to 175 holding on the dot - far beyond any range you could look a judge or jury in the eye and say "that shot was in self defense". Any shot you're taking is not going to be impacted by the vertical dispersion of high velocity variation.

    One of the beauties of 300 Blk if you're using a magnum pistol powder like we all did before dedicated (and slower burning) Blk powders came out is that most of the powder burns within 10" of barrel length, so there's much less of a fireball coming out of the muzzle. It's still there when the sun goes down, but it's not nearly as bright as other calibers with similar muzzle energy. I'll note that I use a linear comp to send all of the noise downrange, so the fireball is more conelike and gets sent downrange too. If you don't like your results with CFE Blk and 110s, you may want to try a faster powder like a magnum pistol powder..
    Let's go Brandon!

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    • eggman918
      Bloodstained
      • Feb 2023
      • 46

      #32
      StoneHendge,
      That's excellent info and exactly what I'm looking for in a load sounds like it will serve both needs for this platform, thinking I'll order more of those 110 seconds.
      Tahnks.

      Comment

      • Klem
        Chieftain
        • Aug 2013
        • 3513

        #33
        Egg,

        I'm with Stone on this.

        For powder I use H4227 for supersonics, and H4195 for subsonics.

        Supersonics are 110VMax, 110Nosler Varmageddon, 110TSXT, or 125TNT.
        Subsonics are 220SMK.

        Aimpoint red dot zeroed to 50yds.

        Comment

        • lazyengineer
          Chieftain
          • Feb 2019
          • 1297

          #34
          So you anneal after resizing? So far I've heard 3 schools of thoughts:
          1)Anneal BEFORE resizing, for a beneficial work hardening effect that will give a more consistent neck tension/spring upon bullet seating thereafter, in relation to your next cycle (where you won't anneal). This is the most common claim.
          2)Anneal AFTER resizing, which is one extra stretch event "erased" by having been more freshly annealed.
          3)Before or after is by and large only relevant for a bolt action shooter at 1000 yards if even then, so it doesn't matter
          4)Annealing is a waste of time.

          Historically I'm at 4. But I have to say most of my Grendel brass I lose, I lose due to neck splits. It seems like my reloading process really works the heck out of my brass, though the splits only happen after firing it. A friend loaned me Anealeez for a few months, since he only uses every year or so. So, I figure heck, i'll play with it. In my case, my issues are pushing me to your sequence, of #2 - doing it after sizing. In particular, I mandrel my necks, so in theory, I'll get the beneficial work hardening effect from my sized brass, when I do that, anyway to at least some extent (maybe?).
          4x P100

          Comment

          • DIANEB
            Warrior
            • Oct 2020
            • 490

            #35
            Cleaning the barrel has a lot to do with accuracy too...
            First thing I do with fired brass
            1 deprime brass
            2 tumble brass
            3 clean primer pockets
            4 resize brass (lanolin and alcohol lube)
            5 wash brass with Dawn powewash
            6 let brass dry over night
            7 tumble brass again...
            8 trim and de-burr
            Ready to load...
            Last edited by DIANEB; 12-06-2023, 12:01 AM.

            Comment

            • Harpoon1
              Chieftain
              • Dec 2017
              • 1123

              #36
              Originally posted by lazyengineer View Post
              So you anneal after resizing? So far I've heard 3 schools of thoughts:
              1)Anneal BEFORE resizing, for a beneficial work hardening effect that will give a more consistent neck tension/spring upon bullet seating thereafter, in relation to your next cycle (where you won't anneal). This is the most common claim.
              2)Anneal AFTER resizing, which is one extra stretch event "erased" by having been more freshly annealed.
              3)Before or after is by and large only relevant for a bolt action shooter at 1000 yards if even then, so it doesn't matter
              4)Annealing is a waste of time.

              Historically I'm at 4. But I have to say most of my Grendel brass I lose, I lose due to neck splits. It seems like my reloading process really works the heck out of my brass, though the splits only happen after firing it. A friend loaned me Anealeez for a few months, since he only uses every year or so. So, I figure heck, i'll play with it. In my case, my issues are pushing me to your sequence, of #2 - doing it after sizing. In particular, I mandrel my necks, so in theory, I'll get the beneficial work hardening effect from my sized brass, when I do that, anyway to at least some extent (maybe?).
              Last edited by Harpoon1; 12-06-2023, 05:25 AM.

              Comment

              • Mark611
                Warrior
                • Feb 2017
                • 232

                #37
                This might be over kill for some of you, but I'm kind of OCD when it comes to my brass, I do not dry tumble anymore due to the dust, I wet tumble with SS pins and Dawn dish soap, that's all that's needed, I have a FA large tumbler, I can either clean my brass to look like new or just run it long enough to clean the outside of the brass without removing all of the cardon inside of the neck, I also use the sifter tumbler to remove the SS pins and water after rinsing the brass to remove any leftover soap, I have no stuck pin in the flash holes, I then put my cases in loading blocks that holes that go thru so any water left in cases has a place to drain out, I then use a hand held hair drier on max heat to dry my brass, this takes only a few minutes to dry about 100 cases at a time, I do remove the primers with a Lyman universal de priming die before tumbling, then I start my brass prep again, I anneal my cases, run them thru a Redding body die, then a LEE collet die, trim to length on my Wilson trimmer, chamfer and de burr the case mouth on my Lyman case prep station, I use this method whether it's for a bolt gun or a gas gun! The rest of my loading process is just as meticulous. YMMV

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