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603-C:
You jogged my memory here. We would buy a .286, .287, and .288 bushing to start with. The .286 was decent for the PPU brass of the time which was thin, .287 for the Lapua, and .288 for the 7.62 X 39 brass we used to neck down and blow out to make Grendel brass.
Can't remember the brand of dies you were using that caused the neck cracking problems. Normally it was the Lee sizing die that caused the majority of brass problems but yours was of another make.
You are set up now.
LR-55 -
Those are the bushings I have. The old die was a Redding FL die, non-bushing.Comment
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I have a vague recollection of some issues very early on in the Grendel's life with the junction from the neck to the shoulder. The Grendel uses a much tighter radius than typical (about half that of the 6.5x55, for example) and some people had chambering issues. Has this become a non issue with modern neck bushings? I have never dealt with them, so I don't know if 6.5mm neck bushings are generic or ground specifically for a particular cartridge design.
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Fess,
Neck bushings are screwed into the die and float. You decide how much of the neck it squeezes. In the photo (6.5x47) the bushing has been screwed in about 3/4 of the neck length only, so the junction is untouched. This is for shooters who want to keep as much fire forming from the previous shot as possible.
bushing - Copy.jpg
Works for precision bolt guns but a semi-auto needs a lot of grip.Comment
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