I have had a 50 Beowulf for 6 yrs. It uses a carbine spring & buffer on its 16" BBL. What about my 20" Grendel? same set up? do I need a heavier buffer and/or spring?
which buffer & spring?
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i would run an h2 or h3 on the 20", provided the gas port diameter is somewhere in the neighborhood of .090"-.094". I built an 18" and used an h2 with adjustable gas block. Same on a 20" I built. They run smooth and recoil is smoother to me with the heavier buffers. This may not be necessary but it feels better and doesn't beat the crap out of rifle.
RichardMember since 2011, data lost in last hack attack
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I put Tubbs flat wire springs in both of my rifles and I believ you use the same spring for rifles and adj stock carbines. I have a standard rifle buffer in my Grendel and use an adjustable gas block which isn't required but I find them useful when reloading at near max charges.
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thanks gentlemen. I will get a heavier buffer. I intend to use my noveske lower w/ geissele trigger for both Beowulf & Grendel for the time being. I think the 50 could use a heavier buffer anyway. upper arrives tomorrow. I am excited."It's a long shot with a limb in the way but it beats suckin' pond water"- Jed Clampit 1964
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Originally posted by Unclered View PostMy gunsmith tells me an adj gas block is the way to go. should I do one, the other, or both?
Adjustable gas can lead to early port erosion unless the barrel is cryogenically stress-relieved, like JP does on theirs.NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
www.AR15buildbox.com
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Originally posted by LRRPF52 View PostAdjustable gas is not necessary on 20" RLGS with the correct port.
Adjustable gas can lead to early port erosion unless the barrel is cryogenically stress-relieved, like JP does on theirs.
Greyfox
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Originally posted by Greyfox View PostLRRPF52. With the adjustable gas block you are cutting off the gases from going threw the complete round hole. Does this then erode more the side of the hole where the gas flows to the bore? Is this the reason for early port erosion? If there was port erosion you can adjust for that. Now if you shot it a lot and switched to a fixed block later it could be over gassed from the port hole being enlarged. What are your thoughts on this?
Greyfox
If you've ever seen an eroded port, it's very clear where the wear is.
This is why LMT angles their gas port, like on the original AKs.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
www.AR15buildbox.com
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If the port is worn to the point of being dysfunctional then the rest of the barrel will also be showing signs of wear. Weighing-up the cost and effort of changing blocks to keep a worn barrel in service as opposed to just buying a new barrel...
F-Class and Bench-Rest shooters treat barrels like consumable items. They change their barrels every year if they are competitive. But it's the same gun and scope they've had for the last 10-20 years.
The cost of the ammunition needed to blow out that gas port is a slow burn in your pocket when compared to the seemingly high, but occasional cost of a new barrel. If you consider the annual cost of ammunition relative to a new barrel then it's not such a big deal. Like tyres on a car. They wear out and we replace them every now and then. It's just the cost of keeping your gun serviceable and accurate.
But, if you have a fixed gas block lying around and like to tinker with squeezing the life out of eroded barrels then knock yourself out.
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I have never heard of early port erosion from adjustable gas blocks. If true I would like to see the evidence, sounds a little fishy to me. The Russians went to a 90 degree port hole with the 5.45X39 because of jacket build up and bullet shear so barrel erosion wasn't a concern with them. Klem is correct about barrel life and replacement from a monetary point.Last edited by montana; 09-30-2016, 11:10 PM.
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