The more info on the Temp test the better, Thanks
Accuracy fixed.
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I think that if I were to discover an excessive amount of gap between the outside of the extension and inside of the receiver I'll try shimming it with a very thin piece of metal. One option may even be to bond the sleeve to the extension, but I would not think that there's enough space for epoxy too. I guess it would depend on the gap that one would have to start with.
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I would fore go the Marine Tex as it shrinks and take a look at Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel Putty, sets up hard and will not shrink. Applying the release properly is critical though if you ever wanted to take it apart. I would almost be tempted in applying release to both the barrel ext and inside the receiver and then coat the inside of the receiver as the excess would be pushed out into the receiver in stead of it being piled up on the shoulder of the extension and potentially the threads.
Several places do sell some rather thin shim stock, would think that would be a good way to go if you don't tear it up sliding in the barrel.
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Using this method only because I want the epoxy to stick to the outside of the extension but not to the inside of the receiver. I think having the epoxy adhere to the extension would make for the perfect gap filler. And by leaving the very thin layer of shoe polish inside the receiver you would be able to remove the two later if desired. Extreme caution and patience would be advised in using this method. Also applying a thin layer of shoe polish to the face of the receiver and the threads on the outside of the receiver would be advised as a precaution so as not to have the epoxy stick to those areas. And when inserting the extension and barrel into the receiver wiping off the excess epoxy that would be squeezed out from between the face of the receiver and the face of the extension ring. I would do this method of installation with the receivers face in a vice pointing downward. After installing the barrel and wiping all excess epoxy away and applying some shoe polish to the threads of the outside receiver threads again and the treads of the inside of the barrel nut, tighten the two together. Not to torque specs yet because you may want to inspect the epoxy after it cures. By this I mean unscrewing the barrel nut to see if any epoxy is inside the barrel nut treads or on the outside of the receivers treads. If so it should be fairly easy to remove with a pick and brush or similar tools. That way after cleaning and greasing up the treads with Anti-sez, or some other grease,you can install and torque the barrel nut with out any obstructions between them. This might just work? Any comments welcome?
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And yes Lastrites that's a good point about putting the shoe polish ( or other release agent) on the ramp face and inside the feed ramps just encase some of the epoxy made it's way there. That way it could be removed after curing. Good point Thanks
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KIWI natural paste is your friend, thin layer let dry and buff, I would likely put polish on the inside just beyond the ext too as well as the lugs of the ext though more will be pushed out and not into the receiver when inserting. Differently not to torque to spec on the nut, I would say a tad over hand tight but not much more and just enough to seat it well. It will certainly take a good rap to break it free once done. Would also suggest having someone assist so one of you could be wiping away the excess as it oozed out. If the day came and you had to break it apart most likely you would be able to just reinsert in the same upper with little effort but it will be a tight fit.
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There exists a high temp and high vibration resistant thread locker that is NOT high strength. Its called Rocksett.
From my experience, Rocksett has about the strength of blue locktite, but with heat resistance up to 2,015 degrees F.
If for some reason its stubborn getting apart, you can break it down in water.
This is the thread locker that most silencer companies use in place of crush washers. As far as I know, no silencer company recommends the use of a crush washer with their muzzle adapters.
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To the OP - Out of curiosity, did you reset the barrel prior to the lapping procedure to try and fix the problem? Shooting 8" groups seems like something would have had to be loose. Glad you got it fixed, but struggling to accept that the lapping alone made that big a difference.
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Originally posted by Bruw View PostTo the OP - Out of curiosity, did you reset the barrel prior to the lapping procedure to try and fix the problem? Shooting 8" groups seems like something would have had to be loose. Glad you got it fixed, but struggling to accept that the lapping alone made that big a difference.
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