Best way to install compensator?

[TraderRik]

Howdy Grendeliers - I would like your input on how best to install and tighten a comp, as I'm concerned about "torquing" the barrel in the process. My setup includes a Faxon barrel that's already installed; and a free float hand guard with a barrel nut. There's no exposed flat wrench surface on the barrel, and putting a wrench on the barrel nut while tightening the comp doesn't seem the right thing to do.

Also, should I use blue Loktite, or no?

Thanks for any and all suggestions!

[bj139]

Here is one option.

[Klem]

TR,
Is there enough exposed barrel near the muzzle for a barrel vise or vise clamps? If not, can you get the handguard off to expose the barrel? You need a few inches of exposed barrel next to where the device is going to be to isolate the torque from the rest of the gun.

I would avoid glue as you want to clean and inspect the port occasionally. Companies like KAS glue their muzzle devices with Rockset only because pulling the gun apart once it's sold is less of a concern than parts coming loose when the customer does not want them to.

[grayfox]

Use a 5/8-24 jam nut (they come in pkg of 4 or 6, Amazon or brownell etc) instead of the timing/crush washers. That way you use one wrench on the comp and the other on the jam nut, counter-tightening. If there's timing of the comp then just do it with the jam nut. Use blue loktite not rocksett, if you want to disassemble the blue loktite will break bond with a butane torch to the area.
By making it tight and with the loktite, torqueing is not needed. Let it dry/set overnight.

[LRRPF52]

I normally clamp the barrel without imparting any torque to anything but the barrel and the muzzle device.

I insulate the barrel from the vice jaws with the inserts, and use swede leather to prevent twisting.

I also try not to impart much torque on the muzzle device, but different muzzle devices might require application of thread locking compounds, especially if you are going to brake attach a suppressor.

[TraderRik]

I thank you all for the suggestions! Now... choices, choices... :>)

[NCFED]

I use a Magpul BEV Block for barrel and muzzle device installation, works nicely as long as you're not trying to torque everything down like a dang gorilla.

[Lastrites]

The BEV Block does seem to work (done it) but isn't my preferred method, I really prefer LRRPF's method of vice with either barrel blocks or the use of a scrap leather but one needs a bit of exposed barrel to do so or remove the rail. If a suppressor is in your future, buy the correct muzzle device now for your rig and attach as recommended by its manufacture.

[Pugsbrew]

These work great for barrel and compensator installation. Keeps stress off the upper.

https://www.botach.com/kley-zion-barrel-spline-socket-rod-for-ar15-m4-ar10-sr25-upper-receivers/

[Klem]

These work great for barrel and compensator installation. Keeps stress off the upper.

https://www.botach.com/kley-zion-bar...per-receivers/

But not the barrel itself. You don't want to hold the barrel at one end while you apply rotational torque at the other end. Get as close to where you apply the torque as possible and isolate as much of the barrel as you can.

[Kswhitetails]

Normally I would completely agree Klem, but in this case I would submit that as long as it's done correctly, that there should be absolutely no problem with using a reaction rod or similar tool to torque on a MD. The torsional strength of hardened and stainless steel rods is astronomical, and with the relatively low torque requirements to appropriately time a muzzle device would in no way compromise the barrel. Saying otherwise is simply erring on the side of caution. Is it a good practice? Usually. But only because it allows more lateral stability. Is it necessary? Not at all. Assuming that the person installing the MD is competent (anyone that can appropriately use a torque wrench), the 30-65 lbs required to appropriately affix a MD should never compromise a barrel's integrity.
Also, we must assume - were dealing with people here - that the torque levels initiated at the muzzle end do not exceed the torque spec of the barrel extension. To discourage the use of these tools as their design intended is in my opinion overkill. If it were put to the test, I believe the failure point in this system would likely be the threads of the barrel before any other point. I don't think a man could bend a barrel by hand with only the length of a torque wrench as a lever. I'm sure there's someone out there, maybe Ronnie Coleman.

Geissele, BCM, LaRue, and thousands of others all assemble components and build rifles using these tools or ones similar to great success.

For some reason, I just like to argue with you. I don't understand it.