Sanders 18"

[FANGGHOSTWOLF]

I was going to try a home build. I usual do not go cheap. Anyone that spends $2000 + on pcp guns and throws $500 on glass is not a cheap buyer.
I've been a powder burners fan for ever and been in the air guns for many years. I have a shop with much tooling and a lathe and more.

My background is a machinist and later a CWI welding inspector for heavy industrail contracting. Inspector on welding and many other aspects of construction. Dealt with many metal properties and welding procedures of exotic metals.

I am going to just get my feet wet in the Grendel. I'm not a super long range shooter. Being old my shooting is still good but not steady as I once was plus I have to use glass on all guns.

Right now I'm looking at this set up.
https://sandersarmoryusa.com/product...mbly-with-bcg/ for starters.

All comments are welcome. Glass will be the HiLux pentalux.
I have other uppers I've looked at. This will be my budget bulild for now.
I have an Anderson lower and an DPMS to use for now. Upgraded trigger is a must for me. I shoot lite triggers but safe ones. I'm sitting on 3 223 guns. 1 bolt 24" bolt varmint gun and 2 AR15'S and more big bore PBS. My deer rifle is the 30-06. Old semi auto but a deer killing machine. Had several 22-250 varmint guns in many brands. Plus other 223 rifles in my past. I'm working on a budget build as many go this round.
I hate to ask this question here but I'm green on the Grendel.

I know the teir levels of most of the barrels out there. You get what you pay for. I know cheaper is not the way to go. It always cost more going this route due to the sad results. Money wasted when one could have gone balls out and still saved money plus got what you needed at twice the price after trashing your investment cutting corners.
Any thoughts are welcome.

Thanks, 💀

[AR15gunner]

I would go with the GB barrel, otherwise an 18" AA. I have the AA and it shoots great.

[Mark611]

right there with you OC, I'm also strongly look at the Sanders 18'' side charger! I hope some folks here can shed some light on these uppers before I buy from them

[VASCAR2]

http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthread.php?14691-Sanders-Armory-6-5-upper-Ammo-accuracy

[RobertFL]

I bought a 6.5 Grendel upper from Sanders in early 2018. I got a 16" Faxon Gunner barrel, 416, 5R, Match Grade barrel. Communication with Sanders was good, I spoke with the owner twice and maybe 2 emails. I put a Bushnell Elite 2.5 x 10 scope with a Nikon 223 one piece scope mount on it. I am shooting Hornady factory 123 SST bullets and getting less than 1 inch groups at 100 yards. If you have any questions you should call Sanders, he was very easy to talk to.

[depletedyourcranium]

The barrel being marketed as "match grade" is a warning sign for me. Just like "mil-spec" that term literally means anything and nothing anymore when it comes to barrels. Not actually describing how the barrel was made or who made it and claiming in big letters MATCH GRADE just screams marketing ploy to me.

You can buy a barrel of known quality and build an upper yourself for a little more or less than they're asking. $200 barrel, $50 upper, $100 BCG, $100 handguard rail, $35 gas block and tube, $15 charging handle = $500. Dress it out with a muzzle device of your choice and you're good to go. You can easily find this stuff 10-20% cheaper than I listed if you're willing to shop around and wait for sales.

To me, the biggest advantage of doing a home build from scratch is that you know exactly how it was made. So if you run into reliability or accuracy issues, you don't have to run down all the possible assembly issues like torque and misalignments because you know it was done right, yourself, the first time and not Bob the half blind drunk at 4:55 PM on a Friday.

[Mark611]

lot's of choices out there for sure! I'm also in the process of looking at all complete 6.5g uppers, I'm thinking of buying 1 now like most people to get into the shooting the 6.5G to get a feel for the cartridge, and if I'm not happy with the results on the barrel end the I will up grade with a Criterion or other well known barrel or just build another complete upper with all the bells and whistles

[1Shot]

Give this a thought. If you purchase one of the $300ish uppers with a 50% chance it will shoot like crap then you will never get the true feel of what the 6.5 Grendel cartridge is capable of. Another thing to think about. Don't get caught up in the BRAND NAME trap. There are only a few foundries than make the upper and lower frames for ARs. You can go onto YouTube and see video's that will tell you how to find the foundries stamped marking and how to identify the maker. The only difference is the name and dressing that is roll stamped on the part. I have Anderson named lowers that were made at two different foundries. One fellow at the range was trash talking Anderson lower frames and talking about how much better his Spikes was. I looked at the markings on his Spikes and my Anderson I was shooting that day and guess what they were made the same place. Told him this and he would not believe me until he saw the video. When it comes to barrels there is your difference. Do research and get a good barrel to start with and build your own. Only tools you really need is a vice and a vice block to hold the upper frame and a torque wrench and you can borrow or rent that cheap from many auto parts stores, and proper size hex wrenches and maybe a screw driver. Go to YouTube and follow one of the assembly video's. Taking your time you can put an upper together in an hour or less that will be a shooter and in the end will cost you less. Been there done that and have the T-shirt.

[A5BLASTER]

Give this a thought. If you purchase one of the $300ish uppers with a 50% chance it will shoot like crap then you will never get the true feel of what the 6.5 Grendel cartridge is capable of. Another thing to think about. Don't get caught up in the BRAND NAME trap. There are only a few foundries than make the upper and lower frames for ARs. You can go onto YouTube and see video's that will tell you how to find the foundries stamped marking and how to identify the maker. The only difference is the name and dressing that is roll stamped on the part. I have Anderson named lowers that were made at two different foundries. One fellow at the range was trash talking Anderson lower frames and talking about how much better his Spikes was. I looked at the markings on his Spikes and my Anderson I was shooting that day and guess what they were made the same place. Told him this and he would not believe me until he saw the video. When it comes to barrels there is your difference. Do research and get a good barrel to start with and build your own. Only tools you really need is a vice and a vice block to hold the upper frame and a torque wrench and you can borrow or rent that cheap from many auto parts stores, and proper size hex wrenches and maybe a screw driver. Go to YouTube and follow one of the assembly video's. Taking your time you can put an upper together in an hour or less that will be a shooter and in the end will cost you less. Been there done that and have the T-shirt.

^^^^^^What he said^^^^^^

[gwtx]

I realize this thread is old, and the op has done whatever he decided on. But just for the sake of info, I have one of the Sanders "match grade" hand lapped, air gauged upper packages. I shot a couple rounds and lightly cleaned the barrel. The next 3 shots were 2 in 1 hole, and the third one was about 5/8" off. Pretty good? That was with Wolf Classic. I shot the next 3 with Hornady 123 SST factory stuff. The pattern was almost identical to the first 3 rounds, but about 1 1/2 inch to the right. I later shot some Hornady Black 123 and it was under an inch, but was probably not as good as the others because I was so excited I probably was shaking. I don't shoot that much paper. Just to zero my scope, and practice a little. I have since shot more than one 1/2" 3 shot group. I don't shoot 5 shot groups cause I'm not that steady anymore, and the fourth or fifth shot is ALWAYS gonna mess up the group
I did have a problem with short stroking which Sanders went the extra mile to take care of. The rifle now throws the brass at 4:30, locks on last round, and barely causes a tiny flat spot on the mouth. Can hardly see it.
I am very happy with the rifle, and Sanders. No I don't work for them, just passing on my experience for what it's worth.

[Kswhitetails]

GWTX, the movement to the right is probably explainable by assuming a position shift when you re-shouldered your rifle. Sounds like you got a keeper. I've heard more good than bad from Sanders, I'd assume they're just like many other AR builders out there, doing their best to assemble parts well, and adjusting price based on the cost of the build list.

Shoot 5 shot groups. The challenge will lead to good times my friend, I promise.

[gwtx]

GWTX, the movement to the right is probably explainable by assuming a position shift when you re-shouldered your rifle. Sounds like you got a keeper. I've heard more good than bad from Sanders, I'd assume they're just like many other AR builders out there, doing their best to assemble parts well, and adjusting price based on the cost of the build list.



Thanks for the reply. I shot it with a "known good" scope I have to see how it was going to shoot. Once satisfied, I mounted my thermal scope and all I shoot now is hogs. As long as the bullet hits the hog close to where I''m aiming, I don't mess with it. The SST's with 27.5 gr of AR-Comp work very well. I've read a lot of your posts, and appreciate you folks who share your experience and knowledge.
"Shoot 5 shot groups. The challenge will lead to good times my friend, I promise.

" As far as good times, every time a shoot a hog,,,it's a good time.

[Birdog]

gwtx - it's swyne tyme.