Howa Mini 22" pin and welded now 16.25" lightened factory stock bedding questions

[raamaudio]

Marine-Tex on order to bed the action as tests I had read showed the least shrinkage.

Lighter weight 22" barrel and cut down to 15.1", pin and welded linear comp, total weight is 55.1 ounces with Outer Impact rail installed.

Shortened, lightened, relieved so cannot touch the barrel, factory stock. Also I found the factory aluminum pillars had the stock plastic higher around them than the pillars so I relieved them as well so solid metal to metal contact.

Plan includes stiffening the foward end of the stock either with filler, carbon fiber rod, combination, etc and filling the rear of the stock with expanding foam.

I will cut groves, drill holes, etc to give the bedding a lot to dig into.

I have read articles and watched videos but nothing I found addressed this to the point I felt I needed to follow the example.

Bed just the action?

Bed action and chamber area of barrel?
(seems more critical for longer, heavier barrels)

Also why not bed the bottom metal (DIP) while at it?

Thanks,
Rick

[Old Bob]

I've bedded several bolt action rifles (Wood & fiberglass - If a rifle has a polymer or nylon stock, I replace it with a fiberglass stock) but have always used Brownell's Steel Bed bedding kits. Yup, it's a good idea to cut grooves & drill shallow holes for the compound to fill & adhere to. When I bed an action, I include around the first quarter to half inch of the barrel chamber area. I've not found it necessary to bed the entire chamber area but I could see where one might do that for an extra-long or heavy barrel.

Definitely bed the bottom metal as well. I usually do it as a separate job after the action bedding has fully set but you can do both at the same time.

[raamaudio]

Thanks OB, your input is very much appreciated

I know I am starting from a pretty weak place using the factory stock but I love a challenge and putting in a lot of hours into something to make it work well is very rewarding to me, even if I end up having to go another route, still great fun and I get to learn something new or what not to do the next time.

Looking into bedding compounds I was looking at the Brownells, good stuff, might of gone with it but the Marine-tex just got my interest, I am sure either would of been just fine but soon I will know.

Now that I think back, all the ones that did part of the chamber only did a part except one that did the whole chamber, I will follow your lead and do the same, just the first 1/4 or 1/2 inch. As mentioned I have the light barrel and cut it down, it weighs about what a 16" barrel would weigh.

I will likely bed the top first then the bottom since my first bedding job, less to go wrong at one time but most of what I do goes right the first time, can't say always but I try

Of course I would want this to turn out to be a tack driver but realize it might not even be sub MOA but if close to MOA it will do all I need it to, testing with higher power scope but might just run the 1.5-4 on it so that limitation will be part of the results.

Thanks again!
Rick

I've bedded several bolt action rifles (Wood & fiberglass - If a rifle has a polymer or nylon stock, I replace it with a fiberglass stock) but have always used Brownell's Steel Bed bedding kits. Yup, it's a good idea to cut grooves & drill shallow holes for the compound to fill & adhere to. When I bed an action, I include around the first quarter to half inch of the barrel chamber area. I've not found it necessary to bed the entire chamber area but I could see where one might do that for an extra-long or heavy barrel.

Definitely bed the bottom metal as well. I usually do it as a separate job after the action bedding has fully set but you can do both at the same time.

[raamaudio]

The guy that was using the Marine-tex said he uses Kiwi Neutral or tan shoe polish, not the other colors, said works the best. I have a tin of pure carnuba wax I used years ago for fiberglass mold release projects so I will test it first.

Of course I am open to suggestions

[Old Bob]

The guy that was using the Marine-tex said he uses Kiwi Neutral or tan shoe polish, not the other colors, said works the best. I have a tin of pure carnuba wax I used years ago for fiberglass mold release projects so I will test it first.

Of course I am open to suggestions

I usually just use the release agents supplied with the bedding kits but have used Simonize car wax a time or two. I put some in a paper cup & warm it up about 20 seconds in the microwave & then use a small paint brush to apply it to the action, buff it some, apply another coat & buff again. I've not used Johnson's furniture paste wax but hear it works well.

[kmon]

I have used the release agent that comes with and Johnson's wax, both worked so far so good

I also bed the bottom metal, while at it do it all

[raamaudio]

I have several waxes and at least one mold release agent in storage I will go dig out as soon as the Marine-tex arrives. I do not think the kit I ordered comes with a release agent.

I like the idea of heating it up, brushing it on, polishing if, repeat, makes a lot of sense.

Thanks
Rick