Krylon Rattle Can Reversal

[NugginFutz]

A year or so back, I was emboldened to perform a rattle can paint job on a couple of my ARs. While they came out looking quite nice, it eventually became clear that the durability just isn't there. While I kept telling myself that these were "working class" weapons, and not show toys, the increasingly numerous chips and scrapes began to really annoy me.

I've now reached my threshold of tolerance, and I began stripping one of the rifles back to original in preparation for Cerakoting. I've tried both Acetone and MEK on the aluminum and steel components, using a toothbrush to get between the gaps. It's slower and more tedious than I had anticipated, though. It took almost two hours to clean the upper receiver, and 45 minutes on the gas block.

Does anyone have a "secret technique" for scaring the paint off the metal, or is this the best I can expect? I'm especially concerned about working on the scope, which I had also painted. I'm concerned about using either Acetone or MEK near or around the rubber seals or optics, so I'd be interested in hearing from someone who's cleaned up their scope after a change of heart, too.

[LRRPF52]

A few minutes in a blast tank using Aluminum Oxide media.

Scopes need the lenses taped off with thick tape, as well as the turrets.

[devildogandboy]

i have some older stocks for my Savage i was going to strip the Krylon off and read about "Klean-Strip" that others had been using. i haven't used it yet but i did buy a can for when i'm ready. they say just spray it on, wait a few minutes and hose it off. i figured for these older stocks that are going to get repainted anyway it doesn't have to be too perfect. might try it, just saying. i bought mine at Wally World.

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/store/p/123404-Klean-Strip-18-OZ-Premium-Paint-Stripper.aspx?feed=Froogle&gclid=CMqvluv2z8sCFYlcfgodqkEIMw

Bruce

[montana]

+1 with what LRRPF52 stated. The heat resistant tape from Cerakote is not only heat resistant but is very durable during sand blasting.

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/SE-165/cerakote-high-heat-tape-2-inch/

[AZ. Old Guy]

What about spray on paint stripper.

[rabiddawg]

I'm thinking both acetone and mek will dry faster than laquer thinner. You need something that doesn't evaporate so fast.

In my shop I buy a product called "gun wash" used for cleaning the spray guns. It seems to be a low grade laquer thinner type solvent.

I would also try some kind of hand cleaner made for paint removal. The stuff I have in my shop works great on everything but cured primers but nothing reverses my primer after it is cured.

I know it's too late now but one should always start gentle and work up to harsh.

[ricsmall]

Have you soaked the components In a tub of acetone. That should get it. I did one that way prepping for cerakote and it softened up after about 30 minutes

Richard

[NugginFutz]

What about spray on paint stripper.

Interestingly, I'd tried that a year ago on another piece I'd painted (non-gun related) to no apparent effect. I'd even bought a pressure washer to knock the residue off. The paint was Rustoleum, not Krylon. I never did get that piece clean, so I repainted it black. I happened to have some of the Kleen Strip spray stripper, so I tried it on the hand guard, today. By george, it knocked it right off! Can't say if it was the Krylon vs. Rustoleum, or what.

I'm thinking both acetone and mek will dry faster than laquer thinner. You need something that doesn't evaporate so fast.

In my shop I buy a product called "gun wash" used for cleaning the spray guns. It seems to be a low grade laquer thinner type solvent.

I would also try some kind of hand cleaner made for paint removal. The stuff I have in my shop works great on everything but cured primers but nothing reverses my primer after it is cured.

I know it's too late now but one should always start gentle and work up to harsh.

Never too late - I'd stopped after just the upper and gas block, as it was getting ridiculous. The spray on remover has redeemed itself as a viable path, and I have the lower, scope and Magpul PRS stock to go.

The only reason I tried acetone or MEK is because of how easily I'd seen acetone do away with nail polish (lacquer based) and how effective I'd seen MEK at knocking down glues and other adhesives.

Harsh? That doesn't even come close to describing the noxious nature of these two solvents. Even with the garage doors WFO, I had to take several breathers away from the stuff.

Anyone know if Kleen Strip spray on stripper is safe on Magpul PRS stocks?

ETA: As I have no access to a blast tank or anything of the sort, I'm more or less restricted to chemical means. Thanks just the same, bwaites and LRRPF52.

[bwaites]

A few minutes in a blast tank using Aluminum Oxide media.

Scopes need the lenses taped off with thick tape, as well as the turrets.

This.

[rabiddawg]

I'm surprised the rattle can stuff is that tough to remove. Like you I would have figured any solvent would have removed it easily.

I have a blasting cabinet but I hate getting the glass dust in my shoes

[NugginFutz]

I'm surprised the rattle can stuff is that tough to remove. Like you I would have figured any solvent would have removed it easily.

I have a blasting cabinet but I hate getting the glass dust in my shoes

Proper prep, priming and multiple light coats. It was intended to last. I just chose the wrong medium.

[patientpatriot]

I'm not familiar with the composition of a magpul prs stock, but I can tell you that klean-strip makes an aerosol paint stripper that is formulated for plastics.