Break in/zero ammo recommendations

[Peregrine]

Not sure exactly where to ask this question, but I’m FINALLY about to assemble my build. Does anyone have any ammo recommendations for breaking in a barrel (Faxon 18” group buy) and zeroing (4-16x50 Nikon FX1000). I’m really new to rifles, so please excuse my ignorance on this subject.

Recommended number of rounds? Any links to specific ammo would be greatly appreciated. I’m hoping that at a minimum I can fire a few rounds this weekend to make sure things are cycling properly.

Thanks in advance.

[Crusty]

Here's the Dez Arms break in procedure which seemed reasonable to me.

I just bought an FX100 6-24 and based on it I think you'll really like that scope.

[Popeye212]

Here is the Ballistic Advantage break in

http://ballisticadvantage.com/blog/ballistic-advantage-barrel-break-in-procedure/

Decent ammo is ok I wouldn't run Match (expensive) or steel

[Wafavre2]

I suggest you purchase factory 123 gr rounds and follow the Barrels Manufactures recommended break in procedure. After sight in, establish a base line with a few different factory loads of the same bullet weight, different bullet makers are ok as long as you keep a log book so you can compare notes down the road. If it's a low cost barrel then shoot Wolf Steel and buy a couple extra extractors, if it's an expensive barrel don't shoot steel ammo. Take your time to learn your barrel and work out any ftf, fte issues. Save your brass and get into reloading to get the most out of your setup. Oh and have fun!

Will

[mdewitt71]

I just shoot it.....
Shoot it and clean it and shoot it some more.
I do not shoot the Wolf crap and put the Hornady stuff thru the barrel for the first 100 rounds before i went to handloads.

Everybody and their 2nd cousin's girlfriends sister has an opinion on how many rounds and how many times to clean.

[Peregrine]

Thanks guys. The cheapest I can find for 123 gr is Hornady Black ELD Match for about $0.85/round. Think I can do better for factory 123 gr rounds?

[mdewitt71]

Thanks guys. The cheapest I can find for 123 gr is Hornady Black ELD Match for about $0.85/round. Think I can do better for factory 123 gr rounds?

Hornady Black is good ammo......
Cheapest I have been able to get it is $173.00 shipped (for 200 rd case) but, that was 2 months ago.

Also sign up for the SportsmanWarehouse 6.5G American Gunner can of 200 rounds for $139.00 notification.
When you see it in stock BUY FAST.

[Bearcatrp]

Go on faxon web site and look at the FAQ. There is a break in procedure for the type of barrel you have.

http://faxonfirearms.com/faqs/

[BCHunter]

Thanks guys. The cheapest I can find for 123 gr is Hornady Black ELD Match for about $0.85/round. Think I can do better for factory 123 gr rounds?

The hornady American gunner bulk at sportsmen wharehouse was the cheapest factory round. At .70 black being second at .84. Wolf is the cheapest when in stock but I wouldn't use it for breaking as it's a bi-metal bullet.

Prices have gone up on black, can wait for a sale or buy what you found now.

[LR1955]

Pg:

Let me recommend you get some ammo you think you will be using for most of your shooting. Maybe fifty rounds.

Run a patch or bore snake down the barrel to get out any oil or crud left over from manufacturing.

Set up at 100 yards and adjust your stock for fit and your optic for eye relief. Dry fire and adjust until things fit you and you get used to the trigger.

Zero the rifle then run a box test on the optic with five shot strings to continue getting used to and adjusting things until you have some confidence in yourself that you have things adjusted right and can focus on performance a little.

Do some practice at 200 and beyond if your range allows it. If your optic has a reticule pattern, start using it so you can see exactly what happens when you use different stadia lines or dots / ticks / hash marks on the reticle.

Finish up your training and clean the rifle as you would any other rifle you own.

LR55

[mdram]

zero with the ammo you plan on shooting

[Kswhitetails]

Pg:

Let me recommend you get some ammo you think you will be using for most of your shooting. Maybe fifty rounds.

Run a patch or bore snake down the barrel to get out any oil or crud left over from manufacturing.

Set up at 100 yards and adjust your stock for fit and your optic for eye relief. Dry fire and adjust until things fit you and you get used to the trigger.

Zero the rifle then run a box test on the optic with five shot strings to continue getting used to and adjusting things until you have some confidence in yourself that you have things adjusted right and can focus on performance a little.

Do some practice at 200 and beyond if your range allows it. If your optic has a reticule pattern, start using it so you can see exactly what happens when you use different stadia lines or dots / ticks / hash marks on the reticle.

Finish up your training and clean the rifle as you would any other rifle you own.

LR55

This right here. I've been looking into barrel break in procedures, and so far have not found anything meaningful as to the practice, other than personal preferences and anecdotal storytelling. I don't know of any serious studies (haven't even seen military funded research or practice), or scientific testing done on barrels to know what actually happens to them in each round from 1-100. From what I can tell, some think it's absolutely necessary to ensure you get every last bit of accuracy down range from a barrel. Some think it's a waste of time from the get-go. No one agrees, and no one can give data significant enough to be taken seriously.

That being said, LR55 has in my opinion good advice on the subject. Shoot it at a reasonable pace, with accurate observation of how it shoots, then test your observations by shooting farther. Don't get a new barrel hot, (why?) until you've become comfortable with knowing what the barrel actually shoots like when cold. Following LR's advice above prevents a too-fast shooting schedule, and allows for excellent observation stops to make sure a firm grasp is retained on exactly how the tube performs.

There are some that think that shooting the bore smooths out the "rough" texture left behind after the tooling required in the manufacturing process. I find this plausible, though thinking that firing plasma-hot, high speed, high pressure driven copper plated lead through a hardened steel tube thinking you're doing anything with precision like polishing is silly. The harnessing of an explosion is an attempt at using a violent act to send soft metal through hard metal quickly. >.<