6.5 Grendel Bear Creek Arsenal Upper

[grayfox]

I have a little bore sight routine that I worked up that keeps me on paper for new scopes -- pm me and I'll share if you're interested...

[A5BLASTER]

grayfox… here's why I'm not quick to jump on good ammo to get on paper. I mounted a Burris optic on my 5.56 AR, I bore sighted the optic, and then it took 70+ rounds to get it sighted in. I had two range officers trying as well as the optic was WAY off (it wasn't loose either)... eventually I was good but it made me question the bore sight tool... which, in the case of the 6.5, was good. Granted, I'm not an expert on optics as I hardly ever used them so after the 70 round incident I did my home work and took the advise of using cheap ammo initially. I really appreciate all the advise and comments on this thread... I wish had joined earlier.

Not to come off rude but if it took 70 rounds of good ammo to get on paper, that scope is trash.

Get yourself a wheeler engineering laser bore sighter, set it 1 inch high at 25 yards and your first shot will be within 6 inches of the bullseye.

I have been useing that tool for a few years and have never had my first shot be more then 6 inches from the center bull of paper target.

[1Shot]

ALWAYS SHOOT AT 25 YARDS TO GET ON PAPER. It will depend on how high your scope is off the barrel but usually set 1 inch low at 25 yards will get you pretty close dead on at 100 yards. I can usually zero a rifle with less than 5 shots and if the scope tracks perfect and the rifle shoots consistent I have zeroed with 2 shots. Shoot one good shot at 25 yards. Then put the cross hair on your aiming point and hold the rifle steady and while looking through the scope adjust the cross hair from the aiming point to the bullet hole and if you want it to be 1 inch low adjust to one inch below the bullet hole. Move to 100 yards and shoot a good shot on a 1 inch grid target. Adjust to your desired zero.

[Randy99CL]

I always break-in and sight-in rifles at the indoor range. It's only 35 yards but quick to adjust scope and easy to clean bore between rounds.

[SenseiB]

Thanks again for the sighting in comments... as I mentioned, I learned a few lessons from that 5.56 session an then the 6.5 session. The 1st lesson was distance:When sighting in the 6.5, I started at 50 yards and had two flyers to the left but was at least on paper and I knew where the rounds were going. 2nd: I don't like Burris scopes...my original choice was the Vortex Strike Eagle but I was cheap and the sales guy pointed me toward the Burris (most reviews were decent as well). 3rd: when buying optics, do your home work and don't go cheap as saving 1 to 2 hundred dollars will probably bite you in the ass....(same as in a budget upper). 4th: cheap low quality ammo will give you cheap low quality results.

[SenseiB]

A5Blaster. Regarding the 70 rounds to sight in the 5.56 AR... Oh, I was PISSED when sighting it in... I was ready to throw the scope in the garbage. I finally got it zero'd but still not thrilled with it. That was my first and probably last Burris purchase. I purchased a Weaver Tactical for the Grendel and its not a bad optic for $200.... I didn't want to spend too much as I only spent $300 for the BCA upper

[grayfox]

10-4, economical is good, cheap all too often isn't cheap OR good.

Get good things you can afford.
Vortex makes good optics, Nikon, Leupold, there are several choices in this mid-price range that work well.
I've got Nikon's and Vortex's b/c I don't feel I can afford 1000/scope/rifle... and they all seem to work well for these older eyes.
If others haven't mentioned it, try to stick with cantilever mounts for the ARs, and ones that have 4+ screws per mounting ring. Observe torque specs for ringscrews and blue loktite them as well.

I do the bore sight in house at ~15 ft or 5 yds on grid paper, and put the laser ~2" low from cross-hair, then first shot at the range is for 15 yds to re-confirm I'm on paper, then go to 25, then 50 and then 100. Some of the other ideas I've read here sound promising too, so there are a few good ways to zero in on less than half a box of ammo... that half a box (for a new barrel) can also do double duty as your first beak-in rounds -- 2 birds with one stone.

[A5BLASTER]

A5Blaster. Regarding the 70 rounds to sight in the 5.56 AR... Oh, I was PISSED when sighting it in... I was ready to throw the scope in the garbage. I finally got it zero'd but still not thrilled with it. That was my first and probably last Burris purchase. I purchased a Weaver Tactical for the Grendel and its not a bad optic for $200.... I didn't want to spend too much as I only spent $300 for the BCA upper

Leapold cantilever scope mounts are all I use now, not the cheapest but dam fine mounts.

As far as scopes go it's hard to beat the vortex diamondback hp line for a good working scope with good glass for the price.

I just got my hands on a Athlon Argos 4-20 that is proving very good so far but more time is needed with it to see if it is at the level of the diamondback hp 4-16 it took the place of.

The wheeler laser bore sighter I use has never let me done, it's to the point now if it takes me more then three rounds to hit the bull I know something is wrong with the setup and I need to walk back through my build before shooting anymore rounds trying to sight in.

Square the recover face and bed the barrel with locktite into the upper, I use to do it this way but now I use steel shim stock to bed it.

Also bed the gas tube into the gas block with blue locktite right where the tube sticks out the gas block and if you can bed the gas block to the barrel with locktite as well. It's not easy with normal gas blocks but I use the jp split yoke type and I can bed the top section, let it set then come back and install the bottom section.

If you do these lil things it really helps might sound crazy but I promise it helps.

[ksoucy87]

I have a LaRue MBT on the way and I cannot wait to try it! I considered getting two but just settled on one to see how it does. I have a feeling I'll regret not doubling my order.