Odin Works AGB / Wilson Combat Barrel

[kriendj]

[VASCAR2]

[kriendj]

It is a rifle gas system. Sorry for the stupid question, but once I measure it then what?

[grayfox]

I think there is a gas-port sizing guide for the Grendel on here, use the search function.
If your port is too small then the rifle won't cycle correctly. But an adjustable gas block, wide open, shouldl behave the same as a plain gas block. The Key is gas port size.
Sometimes a gas block that is installed back flush against the journal stop, means the GB hole is not lined up with the barrel port, but that may not mean anything as the GB hole is typically wider than the barrel port-hole anyway... but front/rear alignment of the GB is a good thing to ensure you're ok in.

[VASCAR2]

[Lastrites]

So which Odin gas block do you have, the tuneable or the adjustable one with the front knob for settings? If the tuneable one, you do realize that there are two set screws in the front port?

[kriendj]

[kriendj]

[kriendj]

From desktop the pic links are there. So is the amount of carbon I'm seeing on the barrel "normal" or indicative of alignment issues? Also for the other end of the gas tube, normal? or indicative of seating issues in the key? Remember I've never done this so please don't hesitate to mention what you think is obvious. I won't be offended! I'm want to figure this out for sure as I'm sure I'll learn a ton if I can get this first build running! IMG_1486.jpgIMG_1487.jpgIMG_1488.jpg

[FRB6.5]

Based on the carbon ring on the barrel it looks like the gas block needs to be moved forward towards the muzzle end. I can't tell exactly from the picture if the gas port is being occluded by the block but it seems so to me.

[kriendj]

[Lastrites]

That gas block has a line engraved into it underneath the gas tube to add in alignment, so take a pencil and strike a line bisecting the gas port over the shoulder. Take gb and remove the set screw underneath the blocks gas port, slide it on upside down on the barrel and line up that set screw hole to the gb port and take note of how far off the barrel shoulder that perfect alignment takes place. Rotate gb and align the pencil mark to the engraved mark with the proper gap from the shoulder and tighten.

It sure looks like you have a decent amount of gas leaking from your block to the barrel and the gas tube and that is likely an issue. Odin has good customer service you may want to reach out to them and discuss it with them and sending them pictures would be good, if you can measure the gb journal and the opening of the gb that may shed some light. My tunable block didn't spue out gas as your pictures show. Some guys use loc-tite to bed their blocks and gas tubes but one needs to be careful doing that as you don't want it to get in your port.

eta; be careful installing the locking long setscrew for adjusting the gas as I've heard others mentioned they noticed when they screwed it down to lock the inner screw that it actually turned the inner screw as well changing the gas setting.

[kriendj]

[Lastrites]

Get yourself a box of wolf and see if it still functions, tune it till chokes then back it off a 1/2 to full turn so you have full function, when you think you have it right put a tiny drop of blue loc-tite on very end of the locking set screw near where the allen wrench attaches and gently screw it in till it stops. I added the loc-tite to mine when I had noticed the locking screw actually backed off due to recoil.

[Kswhitetails]

For gas block alignment, I've used the Spaghetti trick for my last few builds. It's pretty hard to mess up.

Put a piece of spaghetti in your gas port and break it off flush with the barrel shoulder. Slide the gas block on, with the port up. Once you think you've got your port aligned, roll the barrel over, allowing the spaghetti to slide into the gas block's hole. You should wiggle the gas block in all directions to get a feel for where the hole centers are, then snug the set screws, pins, etc. Loktite one screw at a time, leaving the other tight enough to hold the block in place while you remove the other screw. Then put 15in lbs on the first, followed by the second. On my BCM gas blocks I tighten both screws to 25in lbs. After the screws are tight, roll the barrel back over port up, and use a cleaning rod to break the pasta off and push from the barrel. Easy as 1-2-3.

The pencil line was my old method, but that left me always feeling some apprehension about whether I had it forward of the shoulder enough, or whether this gas block was supposed to be touching the shoulder... etc.