A little advise for another build?

[Whelenon]

My first AR build was my Grendel and love it but now I want to build a light weight blaster that's cheap to shoot. I was considering a 22lr upper but now I'm thinking might a well get a big boys caliber, the 5.56. From what I've read the 5.56 chamber is the way to go but what about the 223 or the 223 Wylde chambers?
A 16" light weight barrel would be good but I've seen references to a 14" pinned barrel? Could someone explain this, are they lighter, what's the advantage? Just want to make sure everything is legal. Also, who's making good barrels and what twist rate is best?
Any advise would be appreciated, thanks.

[Bwild97]

If you thinking seriously about the .223, get a barrel with the Wylde chamber; it will allow you shoot 5.56 and .223 Rem with out worrying about pressure issues!

[RangerRick]

The barrel length issue is a matter of staying at the 16 inch legal limit. You can get a shorter barrel if the flash suppressor or muzzle brake is fixed permanently to the barrel and the total length is at least 16 inches.

That lets you use a brake without having to be excessively long.

RR

[Whelenon]

The barrel length issue is a matter of staying at the 16 inch legal limit. You can get a shorter barrel if the flash suppressor or muzzle brake is fixed permanently to the barrel and the total length is at least 16 inches.

That lets you use a brake without having to be excessively long.


RR

So if I buy a 14" barrel and a 2" flash suppressor or muzzle brake drill it and pin it, it would be legal?

[RangerRick]

So if I buy a 14" barrel and a 2" flash suppressor or muzzle brake drill it and pin it, it would be legal?

One of the FFL guys on here can probably give you a solid answer on that. I always thought it had to be welded or built onto the barrel to meet BATF requirements.

RR

[Variable]

IIRC, silver soldered, tack welded, or blind pinned. I blind pinned a buttload of them back in the "ban" days. We used to tack over the pin and resurface them just for good measure, then repark.

[LRRPF52]

Get a lightweight mid-length barrel from BCM or PSA. 14.5" or 14.7" pinned & welded will keep length and weight as low as possible. Use a low-profile steel gas block under a rifle-length float tube. Most guns have 5.56 chambers nowadays. BCM and PSA barrels will be 4150 CMV, milspec chrome-lined, shot-peened and MPI'd.

5.56 is a great caliber. Very flat-shooting, time to target is instantaneous, lots of energy delivered within 150yds, low recoil, light ammo weight, high capacity. I like it a lot. Seen dudes slayed with it. It works great.

[hawk45]

I say if you are going to get a .223/5.56, get a 16" so you can remove the muzzle device. The 1" you save is not really important unless you are getting in/out of a vehicle regularly with your rifle. Go 5.56 or wylde. If you want lightweight.. get the Bravo Company Lightweight 16" upper. If you want more of a DMR, get a 18" WOA and build yourself.
If you are serious about getting a .22 upper, look at the Nordic Components NC22. It's built based on the Ruger 10/22 action which makes it very reliable. It's expensive, but they put them on sale a few times a year. Mine is a 16" and has had ZERO failures in about 1000rds using every cheap .22 under the sun. Heads to the range every time I go. Blast to shoot.. and no picking up and cleaning brass when done. That's worth something right there.

Good luck!

[JPCTR02]

So if I buy a 14" barrel and a 2" flash suppressor or muzzle brake drill it and pin it, it would be legal?

as far as the pin , it needs to be press fit, welded, soldered or brazed.......personally a good tac weld can be ground and finish to be completely undeyectable for an uniterrupted finish