Removing a loctite bedded barrel

[Zeneffect]

I found this stuff to be awesome on several levels.

Goof off superglue remover, found at any lowes.

#1 it works
#2 it's extremely common
#3 it creates an exothermic reaction and that is cool as hell
#4 it makes cleanup easy

I start dripping on the stuff at the pin, the reaction is enough to weaken the joint and break the seal from aluminum expansion. Just pulls right off after a few seconds of drenching. Cleanup the residue with the same stuff, reapply loctite after whatever the hell it was you were doing pulling the barrel off (or don't, its clean)

If it's being super difficult a propane torch (same method to thermofit) works and the goof off for cleanup before refitting.

I have only used this on locktite, haven't tried rickset so can't attest to its effectiveness, but for locktite, it eats the stuff fast. The receiver and barrel extension will get warm, chemistry is happening :-)

[Lemonaid]

Thanks for the tip!

[A5BLASTER]

Peice of mop handle and a rubber mallet. Couple of taps and the barrel comes right out.

[Lemonaid]

Peice of mop handle and a rubber mallet. Couple of taps and the barrel comes right out.

Think of other applications like barrel nut or a threaded barrel that loctite was applied to.

[montana]

Think of other applications like barrel nut or a threaded barrel that loctite was applied to.

Heat will break down all loctite adhesives..

[DVDVC]

Good to know. I have a locktited barrel that may need removal eventually.

[A5BLASTER]

Think of other applications like barrel nut or a threaded barrel that loctite was applied to.

Why?

Only a fool would put loctite on a barrel nut.

And a threaded in bolt action barrel wouldnt need loctite either.

So I took the title to mean removing a locktited in ar15 barrel.

Peice of mop handle squared off and a rubber mallet, couple of sacks and the barrel will pop right out.

[Lemonaid]

Why?

Only a fool would put loctite on a barrel nut.

And a threaded in bolt action barrel wouldnt need loctite either.

So I took the title to mean removing a locktited in ar15 barrel.

Peice of mop handle squared off and a rubber mallet, couple of sacks and the barrel will pop right out.

Many a fools out there. Red loctite is stubborn stuff, some manufacturers have used it on their assemblies as well as well meaning but misguided previous owners. An an easier way than heating the barrel with a torch for a half hour is most welcome.

[Old Bob]

Why? Piece of mop handle squared off and a rubber mallet, couple of sacks and the barrel will pop right out.

^^^
What I've done.

I had an old, broken, ash baseball bat turned down to fit in my uppers. One good whack with a dead-blow mallet will almost shoot a loctited (green 620) barrel right out of an upper.

I was watching one of those gunsmithing videos from Midway USA. When installing a rifle buffer tube on a lower receiver they put blue Loctite on the tube threads. I've never done that on a buffer tube. Should I be doing that? I've never had one come loose.

[Zeneffect]

I never put loctite on any threads except the gas block grub scews and only blue. Doesn't the carbine tube have a little notch that is captured by the spring top hat nipplemajig anyways? If anything, I'd use antiseize on the tube.

I meant those who used loctite 620 to bed the barrel to upper receiver. I would shatter my teeth gritting them so hard smacking things with some wood and a mallet. I know the table of hardness and stuff and how it's just fine but man, I probably wouldn't be able to shi!t for a week after.

[41bear]

Peice of mop handle and a rubber mallet. Couple of taps and the barrel comes right out.

What he said!!

Personally I use Green to bed my barrels, It's also used in the Auto Industry as a gasket type material in Trans., for it's high heat properties and as it helps to square the upper to the barrel, I hope/think. Except when I luck out and the receiver has to be heated to join the two parts, BCM and Anderson's Slick side are the two I've had good luck with.

[41bear]

^^^
What I've done.

I had an old, broken, ash baseball bat turned down to fit in my uppers. One good whack with a dead-blow mallet will almost shoot a loctited (green 620) barrel right out of an upper.

I was watching one of those gunsmithing videos from Midway USA. When installing a rifle buffer tube on a lower receiver they put blue Loctite on the tube threads. I've never done that on a buffer tube. Should I be doing that? I've never had one come loose.

Not no but hell no!

[montana]

Bill Alexander used blue loctite on his barrel nut thread assemblies for ease of manufacture, to offset individual rifles that couldn't meet the 60 ft lb min barrel nut torque he recommended for the 6.5 Grendel. I use blue loctite on the threaded spring detent retaining screw, "for the rear take down pin behind the back plate" I install on every receiver I build. I use blue loctite on, trigger guard screws, receiver tension screws, barrel bedding, hand guard screws, etc. I have used red loctite on gas block mounting screws, but have switched to Rocksett. I use green loctite"620" between the barrel and gas block block journal for proper seal, barrel bedding, between the gas key and bolt carrier instead of Permatex aviation gasket compound and to seal gas tubes to gas blocks. Using loctite on the lower receiver extension "buffer tube" is not necessary if the threads are manufactured properly on the receiver and buffer tube, castle nut torqued to 38 ft lbs and staked properly. This is why I use Vltor buffer tubes exclusively. If the threads are sub standard, I use Vibra-tite VC-3 on the buffer tube threads before torquing the castle nut and staking. Using a torch to break down any loctite thread lock adhesive is a very simple process, if it becomes necessary..It could be quite possible to find AR builds, "where loctite has been used" if the AR was built by another person or manufacturer.. No need to panic..

[PVBoom]

Bill Alexander used blue loctite on his barrel nut thread assemblies for ease of manufacture, to offset individual rifles that couldn't meet the 60 ft lb min barrel nut torque he recommended for the 6.5 Grendel. I use blue loctite on the threaded spring detent retaining screw, "for the rear take down pin behind the back plate" I install on every receiver I build. I use blue loctite on, trigger guard screws, receiver tension screws, barrel bedding, hand guard screws, etc. I have used red loctite on gas block mounting screws, but have switched to Rocksett. I use green loctite"620" between the barrel and gas block block journal for proper seal, barrel bedding, between the gas key and bolt carrier instead of Permatex aviation gasket compound and to seal gas tubes to gas blocks.

If I had known this I would have bought stock in Loctite.

[montana]

If I had known this I would have bought stock in Loctite.

Considering 3 small tubes, "are more than is needed to build more AR rifles than most will ever build in a life time" it is hard to follow your logic. None the less, I won't stand in your way if that is how you wish to make your fortune..