critique my parts list

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  • #16
    The Mini7 is a neat thing, but unless you want to disassemble your rail, you're not taking it off an underrail. Nor is it reflex. Ops cans are really nifty for shorty underrails, I'm excited about this.

    Edit: They said it won't be as short as the M4-M, which is +2.5" length. The Mini7 is +2.8". If it'll be longer than the Mini7 which isn't reflex, that's kind of disappointing.
    Last edited by Guest; 08-13-2012, 12:51 AM.

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    • kissmy300blkbrass

      #17
      I'll get some more info on the ops can now can you please help me with this Grendel build lol

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      • #18
        Certainly. For a do everything, I'd personally make it nice and light so you could carry it about the country without it being rapidly not-fun. Side charger uppers are neat, just be careful of the crud that can get in them. I can't find a weight on the Seekin's handguard, I know the NSR13 is nice and light. Might be something to look into. The barrel, I'd have a look into the energy you want to keep at ranges. See a lot of people here have gone down from a 20" if they'll be out and moving with it, might want to consider a medium contour barrel with some fluting done to it. The PRS would fall under that too. Just a heavy thing.

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        • kissmy300blkbrass

          #19
          What other stocks magpul ubr?

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          • #20
            UBR is 1/2 lb less than the PRS IIRC, but a heavy stock might be just the thing depending on your barrel/attachements to rails/handguard/optics. Better to add the weight in the back than front heavy... might be better to work front to back, yeah?

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            • kissmy300blkbrass

              #21
              Vltor emod?

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              • kissmy300blkbrass

                #22
                Also you got to remember I'll have a 20oz suppressor hanging off the front if the rifle at times

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                • #23
                  The EMod is pretty killer, but it'll rip out your facial hair. If you want to make it a bit softer shooting, the A5 buffer is pretty awesome though, combine that with a rifle length gas and you'd have a very soft shooter. EMod or SOPMOD +A5 would be pretty great.

                  Did you figure out what range you want/need some energy at? Don't know what you're hunting or how far away.

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                  • kissmy300blkbrass

                    #24
                    Mainly punching paper and ringing gongs but will be using it for deer, hog, and coyotes also. I'd be happy if I could reach out tor 500-600 yards if I could reach out further that would be a plus. Eventually it will be sporting night vision like the gold rifle posted above.

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                    • #25
                      You might want to go even more focused on lightweight if you're going NV hunting for hogs. Being able to swing about in darkness is a whole other aspect. 14.5" would be more than enough for deer sized game out to 500-600, depends how big your hogs are. NV is heavy and long barrels are very iffy in the night in bush. I believe the 12.5 that gave chrono data here (burn... burnup? burnout? burn something) was for that kind of hunting. Lightweight and a heavy stock to balance out the 20oz can and the 32 oz NV and the 18 oz scope and... I hope you're in good shape!

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                      • #26
                        Oh, and one more thing. You might want to look into mounting inline optics with one on the rail and one on the receiver. As far as I know that's a no-go, and why you see rails like this guy here (heavy!):



                        Or a monolithic upper.

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                        • kissmy300blkbrass

                          #27
                          The seekins rail mates up perfectly with the upper there is no space between the two and yes I'm in good shape.

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                          • #28
                            I'm not talking about space between the two, that's common enough not to have mating issues. I'm talking more about the stability of a free floated rail not to torque .

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                            • kissmy300blkbrass

                              #29
                              Oh ok I understand

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                              • #30
                                So you might lose zero, possibly. It's not necessarily going to happen, but they're just not part of the same unit, you know?

                                If you don't care /too/ much for the side charger, you could go with a monolithic upper.

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