There's close to 5.75" clearance between the two lugs.
how to hold upper reciever?
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I have used a cheap scope riser with success but if money is not tight and you may build a few more uppers I would invest in a geissele reaction rods http://geissele.com/reactionrod.aspx which keeps the torque off the receiver all togetherPunctuation is for the weak....
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Originally posted by mongoosesnipe View PostI have used a cheap scope riser with success but if money is not tight and you may build a few more uppers I would invest in a geissele reaction rods http://geissele.com/reactionrod.aspx which keeps the torque off the receiver all together
This is the only upper's Ive ever seen like this, both my SBU and my SBU Side Charge are like that. Some people make the mistake and sand out the upper for the extension to fit. That is a no-no.
But yes, good tool for other applications but I also don't like the idea of putting all that torque on my extension where the bolt has a critical contact surface. Also, what if the upper slid half off the tool extension, you could possible damage the extension on the barrel if it isn't seated all the way. No locking mechanism. . I see it as a possible issue..
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the question was about dpms slab side which accept barrels just fin at least the ones i have built have and i bedded them with blue lock tite i clamp the upper in a vice via the rail with a cheap riser and torque to hand guard spec as far as not relying on barrel nut to hold the barrel in place unless you are tig welding it to the reviver i would not trust a simple heat cool pressure fitPunctuation is for the weak....
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Originally posted by mongoosesnipe View PostI have used a cheap scope riser with success but if money is not tight and you may build a few more uppers I would invest in a geissele reaction rods http://geissele.com/reactionrod.aspx which keeps the torque off the receiver all together
One combination to avoid (in my opinion) is the DPMS slick side and any of the Hogue Freefloat tubes. There are few strap wrenches with the cojones needed to torque those barrel nuts, if they won't align on the first available hole. Because of the thickness of the upper, aggravated by the recessed depth of the holes in the barrel nut, you can't get a barrel wrench to bite on the nut from either the front or the back.If it's true that we are here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?
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I made this out of HDPE (high density polyethylene). Works with any type of flat top upper.
action block2.jpg
action block1.jpg
The halves are held together with 2 screws with the holes over-boared on the work side. This helps with alignment but allows them to slip freely.NRA life, GOA life, SAF, and TSRA
"I ask, Sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people, except for a few public officials. To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."
George Mason, co-author, 2nd Amendment.
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Originally posted by NugginFutz View Post^^ This. Steel riser, clamped to the upper rail, has sufficiently facilitated all my slick side's barrel work.
One combination to avoid (in my opinion) is the DPMS slick side and any of the Hogue Freefloat tubes. There are few strap wrenches with the cojones needed to torque those barrel nuts, if they won't align on the first available hole. Because of the thickness of the upper, aggravated by the recessed depth of the holes in the barrel nut, you can't get a barrel wrench to bite on the nut from either the front or the back.Punctuation is for the weak....
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Originally posted by NugginFutz View Post^^ This. Steel riser, clamped to the upper rail, has sufficiently facilitated all my slick side's barrel work.
One combination to avoid (in my opinion) is the DPMS slick side and any of the Hogue Freefloat tubes. There are few strap wrenches with the cojones needed to torque those barrel nuts, if they won't align on the first available hole. Because of the thickness of the upper, aggravated by the recessed depth of the holes in the barrel nut, you can't get a barrel wrench to bite on the nut from either the front or the back.
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Because of the increasing numbers of non milspec upper receivers, I bought a tool that makes so much sense to use making most other methods of securing the upper receiver ...
The Geissele Reaction Rod
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Originally posted by NightForce View PostBecause of the increasing numbers of non milspec upper receivers, I bought a tool that makes so much sense to use making most other methods of securing the upper receiver ...
The Geissele Reaction Rod
Ultra-strong rod slips into the upper receiver and gives needed support for barrel changes and parts installation. Makes removal and installation of barrels, flash suppressors, gas blocks, and handguards much easier. Designed to be gripped in a bench vise so that the rod is either horizontal or vertical. The upper receiver is then slid onto the rod and the rod’s integral splines enter the barrel extension and secure the barrel extension from turning, allowing all the torque from barrel nut wrenches to go directly into the barrel extension. Unique design can't mar the barrel’s exterior finish and eliminates the need to remove sights or optics when installing the barrel on the upper receiver.
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Originally posted by explorecaves View PostOr use Brownells… http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod27452.aspx
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Originally posted by NightForce View PostThe Brownells is a quality tool but the Geissele rod has a milled flat that can be clamped tightly in a bench vise eliminating movement...
AWESOME link Explorecaves!!!!
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