newest form 1 can
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Originally posted by Lastrites View PostVery nice Mel, sure is quiet for a full power load, how long is that one 8"? I need to build one but the sourcing of quality parts is where I lack experience.
168$ in cups
210 $ in the ti tube ti qd mount / ti endcap and muzzle brake
200 for stamp =
578 + 25 bucks in titanium spacer material
depending on muzzle brake and qd options or going direct thread u could save 50-120$ on the cost
with qd and endcaps it measures just a hair over 8 inch tube itself is 7.8 inch
i can pm ya a parts list if ya needLast edited by mel; 04-28-2021, 02:20 PM.
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3 each of theese all heat treated
1 of theese @ 7.8
These over the barrel shrouds are for the intended purpose of protecting your barrel, dissipating heat and looks. They are made of grade 9 Titanium with a OD 1.5″, ID of approx 1.36″, .070 wall thickness and lengths as listed. They are threaded to the D-Maglite thread of 1.4375X20. MOUNTS (not included, sold individually) can be found under SDTA products,…
ur choice of muzzle brake i personally love the titan mini's get brake with rear mount ( stay away from the 3 prong flash hider i have one and it rings horribly)
and one solid diy endcap
These are for SDTA pig tubes, SDTA barrel shrouds and Maglite flashlight end cap. The SDTA muzzle brake adapters, 1/2X28, 5/8X24 and solid cap have spanner wrench holes and are .100 thick protruding from the shroud or pig tube. The Griffin protrudes .480 from the shroud or pig tube. The Gemtech protrudes .265 from the shroud or pig tube. Titanium…
spacer material i sourced locally for some ti tube but my spacing is this
endcap to last baffle is .735 spacer then the 3 shorty cups followed by the 3 std cups , with a 2.5 inch spacer for the blast chamber
i have a 4th shorty cup i may install in place of the endcap spacer and then just cut my spacer down to .235 but as good as it works as is i may just leave it as is , one could actually run 5 shortys and 3 stds with a 2.2 inch blast chamber depending on what u plan on putting the thing onLast edited by mel; 04-29-2021, 04:09 PM.
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Looks like a fun project! And sounds like you're getting good results. Do you have just straight holes in the baffles or are they keyholed? I imagine the baffles don't clock together? How is your POA/POI repeatibility after disassembling and reassembling the can?
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Originally posted by mtnlvr View PostLooks like a fun project! And sounds like you're getting good results. Do you have just straight holes in the baffles or are they keyholed? I imagine the baffles don't clock together? How is your POA/POI repeatibility after disassembling and reassembling the can?
my other can is also stright drilled and i see a lower poi just from the wieght of the supressor on my 20 inch grrendel cause of the wieght of the can but accuracy is on par aswithout the can , onmy28inch gren there is no poi shift since the barrelis a stright .936
without clips there should be no poi shift since theres nothing to align when reassembling though a dhc clipped baffle should be quieter it does require careful alignment to avoid poi shifts , as quiet is this is i dont see myself clipping theese cups , and i know plenty ofppl that are way happy with there cans that arent clipped
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i still need to test the can with the frt trigger ,under those conditions the clipping may prove useful, but if it works just as good as is i wont touch itLast edited by mel; 04-29-2021, 05:44 PM.
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Just for anyone who is curious about clips or alignment.
Some tests recently done in the Form 1 community showed a massive gain in performance from clipping. I am a long time tinkerer/builder and recent FFL/SOT and wouldn't let a can out of the door without clipping first. Some of the best performing baffle designs never really got tested without clips in mind due to the fact that they have become a standard. When any videos surface and someone is complaining about can performance the first 100 questions are (you guessed it), " what clips are you running?" I know the original poster is happy with what he has but if you want to pick up some very easy dB gains (or drop), single clip each baffle for a high pressure round.
POI shift does still occur on MOST barrels when attaching a suppressor just due to the change in harmonics. The alignment of the clips is important especially in single clipped configs and my favorite way to achieve this is with super glue gel. Makes assembly very easy and keeps everything aligned and once you heat that can up the glue just burns off so you don't have a mess if you ever have to break it down. Anytime the suppressor is broken down I re-zero just to make sure.
My intention isn't to hijack only to pass along info that is slightly different than stated above. Feel free to holler at me if anyone has any form 1 questions.
Cheers
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