Targets/coloring for 600 yards

[A5BLASTER]

Ok so a few of y'all might have seen on my CZ thread about the 4 shot group at 600 I was able to put toghter.

Now that was the first time in my life I have ever tryed for a group on paper at that range. Normally I'm a steel target guy at that range.

The targets I used that time was some old ones that were already up. They were the shoot and see type of targets. And even though the day I shot that group wasn't very good for pin point shooting due to atmosphere conditions, the targets did help me understand I was missing my wind calls and my holds.

So last week I tryed it again but this time with my 129 ablr load, but all I had was some plain white paper targets with red diamonds. It was a good day for shooting that range distance. This time I dialed my scope for the range.

Problem I ran into was I couldn't see my bullet impacts on the white paper. So after I fired a 10 round string I went checked the target and found that I had only hit the target with 7 of the 10 rounds and the grouping was all over the place.

So I backed down too 200 and worked my way back out making sure it wasn't my laod falling apart. Did 5 shots at 200,300,400 and 500 yards on the same type targets and groups were what I would expect with this load. But I could still pick up my bullet strikes at those ranges through the scope and know if my dope or hold was off.

So what do you gents who shoot paper at 600 yards often like? Do you use the shoot and see type targets are a white and black X ring type paper target?

[JASmith]

I have struggled with finding a good color and shape scheme foe shooting at our local range. It is just 100 yards, but the morning sun is directly behind the targets.

So, am very interested in what others found that works!

[Kswhitetails]

Are you interested in a elevation target? The guys around here shoot that distance to verify BC or see the effect of a loads SD. They color their bullets with different color permanent marker and shoot their loads all at one large sheet of paper, and later can seperate the impacts because the marker rubs off on the paper, allowing you to see what charges create the least vertical stringing. This becomes their competition OCW.

You're not going to see your impacts at 600 yards to verify groups unless you have some kind of camera setup or are going to use something significantly higher magnification than 30x. Even at 60x it's hard to see groups at 600.

[A5BLASTER]

Are you interested in a elevation target? The guys around here shoot that distance to verify BC or see the effect of a loads SD. They color their bullets with different color permanent marker and shoot their loads all at one large sheet of paper, and later can seperate the impacts because the marker rubs off on the paper, allowing you to see what charges create the least vertical stringing. This becomes their competition OCW.

You're not going to see your impacts at 600 yards to verify groups unless you have some kind of camera setup or are going to use something significantly higher magnification than 30x. Even at 60x it's hard to see groups at 600.

Well that's not really correct. Because on the shot and see target that was up on the board the first time I tryed it. I could clearly see my bullet holes with my scope. That's how I was able to figure out my hold for elevation and wind was off.

Second time I tryed to shoot a group it was a plain old white paper target and yea I could see my hits too confirm if I was correct with my dial in are if my wind hold was correct.

Just more interested in what types of paper targets most folks who shoot at 600 yard for groups tend to use. Trying to figure out a color layout on a paper target that might help me. Like a big black X ring type are if I should just order up some big shoot and see targets like what was up on the target board for my first attempt.

[LRRPF52]

This is typically done with pit monkeys on a pitted range where they can pull your target down with the frame, mark your impacts with discs, and raise the frame back up so you can see where your hits were.

I don't even like those because you don't know the sequence of the shots, but they are better than no feedback at all.

For me nowadays, I just shoot freshly-painted steel and spot the impacts with a 20-60x spotting scope. You can video it to see where each shot went too.

If you're doing OCW ladders, you can color the bullet tips like Kswhitetails suggested, then pull the color off with a Q-tip and alcohol.

[LR1955]

Well that's not really correct. Because on the shot and see target that was up on the board the first time I tryed it. I could clearly see my bullet holes with my scope. That's how I was able to figure out my hold for elevation and wind was off.

Second time I tryed to shoot a group it was a plain old white paper target and yea I could see my hits too confirm if I was correct with my dial in are if my wind hold was correct.

Just more interested in what types of paper targets most folks who shoot at 600 yard for groups tend to use. Trying to figure out a color layout on a paper target that might help me. Like a big black X ring type are if I should just order up some big shoot and see targets like what was up on the target board for my first attempt.

A5B:

I have picked up 6.5 and .30 cal holes at 600 using a Shoot N See bullseye that was very close in size to a 300 yard center. Very peculiar lighting conditions with the sun behind me and somewhat low. Also not real hot so no mirage. Most of the time it would be a No Go. Not even with a very good Kowa spotting scope. Have also picked them up at 600 on white paper but again, very unique conditions and not for long. Shoot N See is a better bet but I doubt you will have much luck with them at 600. Desert at sunrise with the sun behind you -- no wind -- probably.

Steel painted white -- you will probably see something but if there is mirage -- probably not.

LR55

[A5BLASTER]

A5B:

I have picked up 6.5 and .30 cal holes at 600 using a Shoot N See bullseye that was very close in size to a 300 yard center. Very peculiar lighting conditions with the sun behind me and somewhat low. Also not real hot so no mirage. Most of the time it would be a No Go. Not even with a very good Kowa spotting scope. Have also picked them up at 600 on white paper but again, very unique conditions and not for long. Shoot N See is a better bet but I doubt you will have much luck with them at 600. Desert at sunrise with the sun behind you -- no wind -- probably.

Steel painted white -- you will probably see something but if there is mirage -- probably not.

LR55

Thanks for the reply.

That's what I'm trying to figure out is im better off sticking with a shot and see style target when I want to try for a group on paper at 600.

The day I shot on the shot and see was a good day for seeing where I was impacting but a bad day as far as wind calls because the wind was gusting and changing dirrections.

The second attempt the wind was great but then I couldn't pick up the bullet holes on the white paper, mirage was horrible that day.

So I figure I would see if there is a particular color of target most guys like at that range.

At the end it's just something I felt like trying lately. Useing it as a way to work on my wind calls. I typically shot steel at that range but thought doing some group work on paper might help tune up my wind calling a bit more then working on the steel plates.

I found what kind of targets I had shot on the first time so will order up some for this days when I want to try my hand again.

[grayfox]

I've only gone out to 300 but the targets I'm using are all basically a shoot/see type, with large black backgrounds. Definitely not white or any light-colors. In daylight the black gives me better contrast than any other color, and the splatter will show up. There are times of day or types of sun etc that don't work for whatever, but IMO your choices should center on big (12-18") black shoot/see types. There's a bunch of those like on Amazon, the ones I found were rectangle like 18-20" tall and ~15" wide, with I think 3" oblong style between zones, and a big red center area. I don't see the red that well but the black comes in good.

Edit to add, you can get those "plastic cardboard" type real estate signs that use stick-in-ground steel wire-signholders, and bulldog paper clips to clip them to the sign, to post them up at desired distance, just push the sign onto them and push in the ground.

[A5BLASTER]

I've only gone out to 300 but the targets I'm using are all basically a shoot/see type, with large black backgrounds. Definitely not white or any light-colors. In daylight the black gives me better contrast than any other color, and the splatter will show up. There are times of day or types of sun etc that don't work for whatever, but IMO your choices should center on big (12-18") black shoot/see types. There's a bunch of those like on Amazon, the ones I found were rectangle like 18-20" tall and ~15" wide, with I think 3" oblong style between zones, and a big red center area. I don't see the red that well but the black comes in good.

Edit to add, you can get those "plastic cardboard" type real estate signs that use stick-in-ground steel wire-signholders, and bulldog paper clips to clip them to the sign, to post them up at desired distance, just push the sign onto them and push in the ground.

Splatter shot is the kind I shot at the first attempt and what I just ordered.

They are 17.75x17.75

[FLshooter]

I consider myself fortunate that our club has gotten an electronic scoring system at 600 yard range. But prior to this and when I used to shoot on my friends property we would use 12 inch dirty bird splatter targets if we were not shooting steel.
On a good day with no mirage and decent weather conditions I was able to see 30 cal bullet holes in a splatter target at 400 to 650 yards. A little harder the further you got out there but still doable.We were using my Kowa TSN 822 spotter.

[mtnlvr]

How about a target camera? I built one that I was able to see holes in a target beyond 1000 yds on my cell phone (definitely not in HD). That was a test along a gravel road with a pre-shot target, I've only used it in live fire to 300 and it worked well.

[brian y]

I have a March 10x60x56 High Master scope I am using and can see hits on white painted steel gongs pretty good at 600yds and can see my groups but as I went longer even with that scope I had trouble seeing hits, I have one of the original Target cameras the one in the plastic ammo box, I bought it a few years back and have only now start using it but it has been outstanding seeing hits and groups at distance. I see them up for sale every now and then used for not a lot of money you might want to look out of one, I use an I-pad for a bigger picture as my eyes are not the best.

[Kswhitetails]

A grendel impact at 600 on steel blooms to .75-1.25 inches from my experience. I can see that with the spotter no problem at all. Seeing that in paper, .264 holes, is a different story all together. I doubt anyone that would say paper target groups can be seen from the firing line even at 60x. The reason that the shoot-n-see help is because they simulate the splatter created on steel, 3/4 inch marks.

[FRB6.5]

If your range allows them (some don't allow items placed downrange) it really is a use case for target cameras. Higher magnification is too subject to mirage with such a small deformation on paper, lighting and angle need to be in your favor as well.

[imaguy3]

I find myself using this target for everything. I like that it gives tons of aiming points, and then at distance the center of the large diamond becomes a nice aiming point when used in conjunction with the reticle stadia.Rifle-Scope-Orange-Diamonds.pdf

But yea don't count on seeing bullet impacts through a scope past a short distance... with any target except painted steel.

I really enjoy shooting my steel for that reason. I paint it white and can easily see the black impacts of even a 223 at 500 yards.