PSA Adjustable Gas Block Questions.

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  • WSAR15
    Bloodstained
    • Jul 2017
    • 71

    PSA Adjustable Gas Block Questions.

    I just bought a PSA lightweight 18" 6.5 G upper assembly. I seems quite nice. It has an adjustable gas block not too accessible. Before I take the hand guard off etc... maybe someone can give me directions.
    It appears the adjustment screw is accessible on the front of gas block (as you look down the barrel). On the right side of the gas block (as you look down the barrel to the receiver) there is a small silver screw - it this to lock/unlock the gas adjustment screw?
    Any idea who makes this gas block?
    Thanks.
  • A5BLASTER
    Chieftain
    • Mar 2015
    • 6192

    #2
    Yes smaller screw on the side locks the adjustment screw that is locates on the front of the gas block.

    They will probably use two different allen keys, not to unlock and normally a lil bigger one to adjust.

    Comment

    • FRB6.5
      Warrior
      • Oct 2018
      • 415

      #3
      PSA says they make them.
      The front screw is the gas and needs a 5/64" Allen wrench, flush with the front of the block is full open. The smaller stainless screw on the side is the lock screw it needs a .050" Allen wrench.
      Be aware my lock screw was barely inserted and not tightened down at all, glad I caught that before losing it.

      Additionally check your gas key on the carrier, mine was not torqued, thread locked or staked. Sadly didn't find that until it stopped cycling at the range.

      EDIT:
      A long 5/64" driver may be advisable over taking the hand guard off.


      EDIT 2:
      There are at least two models of gas block with different adjustments (and likely different bit sizes). The info above is for the front gas, side lock variant.
      I just bought a PSA lightweight 18" 6.5 G upper assembly. I seems quite nice. It has an adjustable gas block not too accessible. Before I take the hand guard off etc... maybe someone can give me directions. It appears the adjustment screw is accessible on the front of gas block (as you look down the barrel). On the right
      Last edited by FRB6.5; 12-26-2018, 04:59 PM. Reason: added info

      Comment

      • TraderRik
        Bloodstained
        • May 2018
        • 44

        #4
        Great info - thanks!

        Comment

        • Wanderson
          Warrior
          • Oct 2018
          • 119

          #5
          I never removed my hand guard to adjust, just ordered a set of 12” long Allen/hex keys.

          Out of the box it’s set to max gas so it’ll run just fine without messing with it, but you will be amazed how much less it recoils just by taking a few minutes to dial in. And I didn’t dial mine to the ragged edge of operation, once I hit the spot where it failed once, I opened it back up a half turn. Haven’t touched it since.

          Comment

          • Dlbleak
            Unwashed
            • Dec 2018
            • 7

            #6
            Do you recommend starting with an AGB? Talking with a friend that has built many guns. He said the Grendel was one of the most picky he’s dealt with.

            Comment

            • A5BLASTER
              Chieftain
              • Mar 2015
              • 6192

              #7
              Originally posted by Dlbleak View Post
              Do you recommend starting with an AGB? Talking with a friend that has built many guns. He said the Grendel was one of the most picky he’s dealt with.
              I haven't found it picky at all, I I'm willing to bet most haven't either.

              I run adjustable gas on all my rifles but to be honest, it's just as easy to get one to run with a typical gas block and standard buffer and spring for the stock setup.

              Have one 20 inch adjustable gas with a gen 1 scs, but can pull it and drop in a standard rifle buffer and spring and it runs just fine with no gas adjustment.

              Have a 16 inch that uses adjustable gas and a standard carbine buffer and spring but can drop my gen 1 scs into it and it runs just fine with no adjustment.

              What causes people issues is buying barrels with gas ports that are not cut to the correct size for the gas length and or buying a barrel with the wrong gas length.

              Comment

              • wiguy
                Bloodstained
                • Dec 2018
                • 30

                #8

                Comment

                • FRB6.5
                  Warrior
                  • Oct 2018
                  • 415

                  #9
                  @wiguy the gas should be in the full open position out of the box, if the screw on the front of the block is flush, it is. Check the gas key on the bolt carrier, as I noted above, mine was not properly attached and loosened after a few rounds and caused cycling issues.

                  If you find yours has done the same, clean and de-grease the screws, key and carrier with non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner. Then put a light coat of high strength red loctite or other brand thread locker on the bottom of the key to act as a seal (Permatex gasket sealer can be used as well). Put some of the red loctite on the screws and torque to 56 inch pounds and let cure over night. Failing that contact PSA for an RMA if you don't mind the wait.

                  Comment

                  • wiguy
                    Bloodstained
                    • Dec 2018
                    • 30

                    #10
                    Thanks FRB, I’ll look into all of those mentions. I have to report, with my 2nd test, things went much better.

                    1st off, my reloads. I was trying to use up some powder I was given, IMR-4198, rather fast rifle powder. I also used some 90 grain bullets. Reading elsewhere I saw mention of using a slower powder & heavier bullets.

                    I did another test batch with 100 grain bullets, and a upper loading of Ramshot TAC(30 grains)I think all 10 cycled fine, one failed to strip from the magazine, not a load issue. These rounds did not lock the bolt back on the last shot, the factory rounds did. Both ejected near the same distance, not real far, 4’+ a bit estimated.

                    I also used 2 other magazines, lubed them again before hand. The grouping was pretty good, casual testing. My lower should be broken in just fine, it’s part of a custom midweight setup I use for prairie dogging.

                    It still bugs me that the set screw in the gas block is so tight. I should be able to deal with that. I gave things a good cleaning and lube before I shot, but my next step with be another detailed internal cleaning and checkout.

                    Anyhow, on the upswing I think.

                    Comment

                    • FRB6.5
                      Warrior
                      • Oct 2018
                      • 415

                      #11
                      Letting some Kroil or Liquid Wrench soak into the set screw threads for a few hours may help.

                      Comment

                      • wiguy
                        Bloodstained
                        • Dec 2018
                        • 30

                        #12
                        I did put some Kroil over the set screw, still frozen in, not buggered up to much. My plan is to acquire a better tool/bit tomorrow.

                        The gas adjustment screw is out about 1 to 1.5 threads, backed out of the block. Of course the set screw has it locked in this position.

                        I took the bolt all apart, the bolt does seem rather stiff inside the bolt carrier. I cleaned everything and used a bit of slippery lube.

                        These rounds tested were the very 1st rounds for this upper, maybe 20-25 so far. My 2nd test went much better. Can I attribute some of this to ‘break in’? That may be more wishful thinking. Again it shot rather well, though I was mostly testing function. I have a 6.5-20 prairie dogging scope mounted.

                        My main goal is to free up the set screw. If that happens I will check where the gas screw is adjusted to, then more shooting.

                        Comment

                        • FRB6.5
                          Warrior
                          • Oct 2018
                          • 415

                          #13
                          A silly possibility. Have you tried backing the gas screw out? It's possible it was assembled in the wrong order and the gas screw is acting as the locking screw for the set screw.

                          Comment

                          • wiguy
                            Bloodstained
                            • Dec 2018
                            • 30

                            #14
                            Well, 1/2 there. The gas adjustment screw backed out normally, reasonable tightness. The set screw is still not wanting to come out. I’ll try a better fitting Allen tool today.

                            Comment

                            • NeilVT79
                              Bloodstained
                              • Oct 2018
                              • 71

                              #15
                              I don't know where you guys got you're info on the PSA adjustable gas block but their is some misinformation in here.

                              The front screw, parallel with the barrel, is the set screw. The side screw, perpendicular to the barrel, is your gas adjustment screw.

                              Back off the front screw first, adjust the side screw, then tighten the front set screw.

                              Comment

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