JP adjustable gas block screw allen wrench hole rounded

[soddyjohn]

While trying to adjust the adjustable gas block on my new PF Grendel the allen head hole inside the adjustment screw rounded out and the allen won't turn the screw. JP literature said this stainless screw is 3/8 long and it appears almost out. Any suggestion on how to remove the stainless set screw?

[usmc1371]

Try a small easy out screw remover

[soddyjohn]

I had thought about using a small easy-out (required a little drilling) but was worried about it snapping off. That maybe what I will have to do. I guess if all fails maybe purchase a new JP gas block. Just don't know why the screw appears stuck.

[TacBlade]

You can get a TORX head bit that does not quite fit in the hole and tap it in there. Put your handle on the bit and unscrew it. It has worked for me many times.

[soddyjohn]

You can get a TORX head bit that does not quite fit in the hole and tap it in there. Put your handle on the bit and unscrew it. It has worked for me many times.

I just don't know why I did not think of that myself but I didn't. I did not have a easy-out that small but I did have a torx T7. That worked like it was made for it. Thanks usmc1371 for the suggestion and thanks for pulling my head out my backside "Tacblade".

[VASCAR2]

I bet if you contact JP they'd send you a couple of new screws. I have the screw on my JP pretty far out and have always been concerned about loosing it. I thought about blue Loctite but didn't know if the heat would break down the Loctite and be of no advantage. I wish their was a detent holding the screw but otherwise I really like the JP gas block.

[NugginFutz]

I bet if you contact JP they'd send you a couple of new screws. I have the screw on my JP pretty far out and have always been concerned about loosing it. I thought about blue Loctite but didn't know if the heat would break down the Loctite and be of no advantage. I wish their was a detent holding the screw but otherwise I really like the JP gas block.

+ 1 on preferring a detent style adjustment screw. They make it easier to identify and relocate specific settings.

At BTE's suggestion, I used blue loctite on my BTE adjustable gas block with good results. It, too, is a setscrew type.

[VASCAR2]

Thanks NugginFutz, I'll give it a try.

[Tedward]

I replaced my factory screw with one of these thumb screws (http://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screws/=uiwhv8) and I can adjust it with my finger tips. After 50 rounds, it got sticky with buildup and works great. No lock tight needed. $4.00 fix.

I also screwed it in all the way, put tape on the end of it and made a mark on the tape at the 6:00 position. Then I removed it and drilled a little indent for the bottom locator. I turn mine 3-1/4 turns out to cycle fine with factory Hornady ammo. Lighter pills, I just dial it in a little, 1/4 to 1/2 rotation.

You do need to work it in and out on a regular basis and clean it every few hundred rounds so it doesn't get stuck and require something to brake it free. That was what got me on these replacement screws and you don't need an allen wrench.

I've gone to SLR Gas Blocks for new builds but don't have any long term use to say there better but they have a differnt system that doesn't allow the screw to come into contact with the gasses. That should alleviate the getting stuck issue and they also have a detent to let you identify where you are on turns from closed to open possition.

Gas Blocks: http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?r...tegory&path=57
Gas Block Adjustable Screw Driver: http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?r...&product_id=94