Inch Pound Torque Wrench

[CJW]

Boys,
I need a new torque wrench. This will be used exclusively for optics. Which torque wrench do you like?

Do you use Vibra-Tite VC3, Loctite or another thread locker?

Thanks,
Chuck

[grayfox]

CJ, I've got that wheeler fat wrench, it's my inch-lb wrench.
I do not use any loktite on rings, nor on the screws for a cantilever.
Just follow the mfr specs, usually 16-18 in-lb. For a cantilever or for rings with multiple screws, alternate tightening and go thru the sequence a couple of times. When one screw tightens down a previous one sometimes loosens up. This is where I think some folks make a mistake, and so they thought everything was torqued with only a one-time pass thru. Just like an engine block but smaller torque specs...
Loktite has not been necessary, and anyway I find myself swapping scopes around a bit from time to time.
I do use some blue loktite on the pic rail screws for a bolt action.

The wheeler doesn't have all the torx T-wrench sizes so get a decent set of those, maybe also hex's b/c again, not a full complement.
I prefer the rings/mounts with torx screws btw.

[LRRPF52]

I also use the Wheeler FAT Wrench for inch-pounds torque for optics, and make sure my fasteners are all balanced-out in torque.

+1 on what grayfox said about needing more Torx bits. I have several different sets of Torx and Allen bits.

You will often find conflicting torque specs between the scope maker and ring makers, so I default to the scope maker.

I don’t mess around with less than 4 fastener-per-ring scope rings, because you get more purchase with the larger rings.

I also do the lug nut method of going around the fasteners and multiple cam-overs with the torque spec.

Loc-tite when wet will change the torque value by allowing more torque to be applied due to coefficient of friction being lower on the threads.

Several scope mount and ring makers send their fasteners already blue Loc-tited, but it’s dry, so it doesn’t have that reduced coefficient of friction.

[jasper2408]

Lyman also makes a pretty good torque screwdriver. Bout $20 more than the Wheeler though. Goes from 10-80in-lbs and It comes with : T10 , T15 , T20 , 3/32 Allen , 5/32 , Allen , 3/16 Allen , 1/4 Allen , 1/2 socket and 3 sizes of straight blade.

I did buy extra hard steel bits for all of the sizes that I use but the ones that come with it aren't bad quality.

Edit: The only thing I loctite is the picatinny scope base screws. This is on a bolt gun.

[LRRPF52]

If I’m setting up a bolt gun, I de-grease the action and scope base holes, de-grease the scope base(s), then install them with Red Loc-tite.

I also make a form-a-seal gasket with the Red Loc-tite on the underside of the bases, in addition to Red on the fasteners for the base.

Learned the hard way 35 years ago with the .270 Winchester about the base coming loose. Loc-tite fixed that, but I went through several boxes of ammo chasing trajectory at incremental distances well before we had reticles or ballistics programs. It was all for nothing once the scope came loose, other than a great lesson in the basics and problem-solving.

With the M24 Sniper Weapon System, we had a T-handle torque wrench with the whole deployment kit, really sturdy rings and bases, and a solid all-round rifle that could take a beating and not even flinch.

[Old Bob]

I've been using fixitsticks torque tools... https://store.fixitsticks.com/ I have most of their torque limiters. They ratchet when you reach their torque spec. I also have an old German torque wrench that is in Newton Meters. I found a conversion chart on the net so I did use it for a while 'til I started using the fixitsticks. It was a PITA to find bits for it 'cause it requires 8mm drive bits instead of 1/4" I had to make my own 8mm-to-1/4" adapter. It's retired now.

[Klem]

CJ,

All good advice from the guys above.

I use a Wheeler FAT wrench and oil, not Loktite. Oil is a stronger bind than dry. I check torque when I can before shooting. The sheet that comes with the Wheeler is handy for max torque setting. I use mainly 25In/lb for standard scope screws and less if the manufacturer recommends. I note SPUHR recommended torque settings are higher than US manufacturers.

For bedding a scope base I use Devcon two-part metal epoxy and neutral shoe polish for the release agent. Wait till it cures then oil the screws and all torqued the same.

I'd only consider Loktite if I was sure I'll never unscrew them again, which is never the case with scopes and mounts.

[Zeneffect]

never used locktite on screws. fanciest scope rings i will ever use are nightforce which the base may ask for 67in/bls and the mechanical fat wrench stops at 65. the digital version goes to 100 but its harder to use as consistently. mechanical version is way faster to set the torque value vs digital as well. digital will only beep at you and allow you to over-torque so you need to keep an eye out and get a feel for it. if you arent torquing like an angry gorilla go with the mechanical just for ease of use and cheaper cost.

[CJW]

Thanks for everyone’s input, I appreciate it. I haven’t been as active on our board lately as I have been in the past.

I fell in with a group of demented Steel Challenge shooters, bought 9 pistols and now all I want to do is shoot steel plates.
That stops this Thursday, I am going on a proper pig hunt, with one of my Grendels for 3 days.

Went out and checked zero on both thermals a couple of weeks ago. It was so much fun shooting rifles again.

Good to hear from everyone.

Chuck

[Growler]

Take this opinion for what it costs ya…

I have never had any difficulty removing a properly degreased and applied adhesive (LocTite) joint. Bolts, screws, whatever. That said, I would be somewhat guarded using them on fasteners smaller than #8. What I find very interesting is that Loc Tite’d fasteners had the least amount of corrosion and the most predictable release torque-provided they didn’t see excessive temperature beyond the application range.

For optics, and low volume work, the Borka torque wrench - http://shooterstools.com/Pages/BTD/btdkits.html is pretty nice. I’m about to pick up a Lyman Pro Drive for more common stuff.

[kmon]

Bought a Fat Wrench years ago haven't seen a need for another for my uses.

[Wanheda]

I might be late with this contribution, but I've had good lock with the Vortex torque wrench/screwdriver. It is a very nice precision tool, but a little on the expensive side. I'm glad I bought mine a few years ago. It just does not go quite high enough to tighten the action screws on my bolt gun. The wrench maxes out at 50 IN/LB and those action screws need 65. I had to buy a automotive style IN/LB wrench to get to that level of torque.

As far as torque levels go, everyone seems right line with what I've read in the owner manuals from Bushnell, Leupold, and Vortex. 15-20 IN/LB for the ring caps, 25-30 IN/LB for mounting a cantilever on a pic rail, and 50+ IN/LB for the ring-to-mount interface. I've never had to put mounts on the receiver because they were already there. I usually start with something in the middle of the range, and if I have problems work up from there.