Royal Purple Synthetic Gun Oil

[cory]

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/royal-purple-synthetic-gun-oil/#.UnqVnndoXl8

Has anyone tried this stuff?

I use most of their other products in my car and they're top of the line.

[mongoosesnipe]

good oil is good oil does not matter its designated purpose low low weight synthetic motor oil make a great lube to run an ar15 wet with lube

[Klem]

+1

Moving metal parts in an environment of burnt carbon and mild heat. Sounds like a car to me.

Plus, for some reason having the word 'gun' on the package seems to justify jacking up the price by 300%.

[mongoosesnipe]

8 bucks not bad for an 4 oz aerosol can of gun oil

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FUNZF2/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=automotive

or you can get a quart of 0-20w full synthetic for 8 bucks at the local auto parts store but it wont be aerosolized

[Klem]

You can 'weaponise' the bulk oil by putting it in a re-usable plastic squirty bottle. Like the ones you use for ironing. The oil is too viscous to come out as a mist but it's an easy applicator for when you're firing bulk rounds from auto-loaders.

[mongoosesnipe]

i just use 3-6cc syringes for applying bulk lube either that or use an old gun oil bottle or an oilier depending on my local

[Tedward]

Well I guess my empty gun oil squirt bottle will work. My wife doesn't have an iron bottle to steal like Klem did from his wife, or maybe you iron and got an extra I'm a toss it in the dryer again kind of guy...

[NugginFutz]

I use these for both applying bore solvent and gun lube. Very inexpensive, and gets into the hardest to reach spots.



I bought a bag of 50 for something like $6. I've gone through 3, so far, in the last year.

[bwaites]

I've tried lots in the last 5 years. Its come down to two, which are vying for my favorite. The first is Slip2000 EWL. I really like it, but its probably my second favorite now.

My current favorites are Lubriplate products. Lubricants have to work two ways: Hydrodynamic and boundary. Hydrodynamic lubrication occurs when parts ride on a film of lubricant. The film keeps the parts separated and they don't touch. Boundary lubrication is important when that layer of film is disrupted, usually by being squeezed out. Boundary protection happens when additives in the lubricant provide protection. These are slick solids or semisolids which fill any tiny voids. There are lots of these, molybdenum (moly), PTFE (Teflon), sulfur compounds, zinc compounds and more. Each has advantages and disadvantages. One widely used boundary protection additive should be avoided, chlorinated esters. They tend to promote stress corrosion cracking in gun parts. Since there are plenty of others, there is no reason to risk it.

I don't like motor oils because they stain in color if you get any on clothing. I haven't tried the Royal Purple products, but they have a great reputation among car guys, as do the lubricants from Schaeffer oils. ATF fluid works really well for most uses, too, and a combination of motor oil and ATF fluid has been used for a long time with great satisfaction by many gun guys. It works really well, but those guys have lots of clothes, packs, bags, and leather with faint reddish pink stains.

The food grade Lubriplate products are non-toxic, have no odor, and no color. They will oil stain, of course, but its not a discoloring stain.

I guess my simplest answer is that there aren't any MAGIC gun oils. This is a pretty mature technology, at least for now. All the additives and combinations are well known. There are LOTS of "me too" products, and lots of products marketed for gun guys that are simply repackaged products that are really a lot cheaper if you find them elsewhere. A gallon of Lubriplate runs about 30 bucks. People pay 10 bucks for 4 ounces of stuff like Slick2000 EWL, (Just like I used to do!)

Things like Froglube, while they work fine, are simply a repackaging of something that's been around a long time! BUT BEWARE OF CHLORINATED ESTERS!

The simple old machinist rule is still in play: Oils for parts that rotate, greases for things that slide.

Greases are just oils with thickeners. Most people use greases that are too thick and gummy for guns. Use very light greases and you'll be better off.

Don't use WD-40. The WD part stands for WATER DISPLACEMENT. It works great for that, but it bakes on and makes a very NOT cool varnish on gun parts. Don't use graphite, which is actually mildly abrasive. Silicone sprays have good surface slickness, but no wear properties. I do use it on magazines where there won't be much friction because it makes water bead and roll off.

This is all my take, after lots of reading and talking, but I'm not a fluid engineer, mechanical engineer, or lubricant specialist, just a medical guy with a penchant for research.

[Lead Chucker]

I have been using Moble 1 for awhile now and really like it.

[Klem]

Mr Waites that is the most informative yet concise treatise on gun oils I have ever read. Well done Sir!

[frank]

I have been using Moble 1 for awhile now and really like it.

+1
Ed's Red for cleaning. Mobil 1 for lubrication. CLP for rust prevention on collectible firearms.

I bought one of the small needle bottles of Hoppes and refill it with Mobil 1. Works great for getting the oil right where you want it.

[KentuckyBuddha]

Do you do full synthetic? What weight?

[mongoosesnipe]

Do you do full synthetic? What weight?

lightest weight you can find.... 5w-20 works pretty well they make down to 0w20 but none of my cars use it so i dont have any around

I typically just turn the empty oil jugs upside down in a funnel into a jar over night, you would be surprised how much oil drains from an empty jug it will usually more than meet your gun oil needs

[KentuckyBuddha]

thanks!