Mildot ranging for Whitetails,

[joker31]

Sorry for the pause between posts, I lost the post when it was moved (I was linking instead of subing) I find that using 36in for the height is easy because I can see most of the way to the ground and If not I just divide everything in ranging in half for his chest/torso(18in). I do own several Rangefinders but I find them unneccesary most of the time because I cheat and put out stakes for ranges at my treestand. I learned this in Afghanistan from watching Talibs marking rocks with paint for mortar attacks and ambushes. They actually use a pace count or in real bad areas they tie a string with knots on it to setup distances. they did this so they could prep ambushes at night and still they were able to walk straight towards a star that they lined up with a paperclip on a hat (Smart bastards) I wondered why they always had kite string and paperclips wrapped inside their Pakuls.

You guys need to prep your stands' fighting positions better if you dont already, I put stakes in the ground with the huge numbers of the distance on them, hopefully the deer and hogs wont learn to read, because if they do I'm screwed. It may seem like cheating but it beats using a rangefinder. DM school teaches this too....to setup by ranging items and making a range card. I just made it easier.

The guy who started mixing Mils and MOA on the same scope must have been a Democrat, Clicks are useless to me unless I do the math (I have a minor in Applied Mathematics and I'm still too slow) I feel like looking that guy up , finding his oldest relative and kicking him in the gonads. I had to relearn everything in MOA a while back because I ended up buying a scope and spotter in MOA so they matched but then someone broke into my truck and liberated them from my oppression. The guy most have known about the laws because he took the upper off of my rifle and left the lower so he wouldn't get a firearm theft charge if he was caught. So I'm thinking either a 2 striker, a cop or a lawyer. I didnt get mad until I found my grandfathers K-Bar was missing (He carried it at D-Day, my dad in Hue City during Tet and Me in Kunar Province during the Fall of the Korengal valley. I put up a reward for it and my buddies offered one too. I didnt keep it in my truck, I was having a display made for it to put in my office and was on my way to carpenter friends house. I find the guy who did it, Hes not going to be happy. Anyway.....

I'm trying to come up with good holds for the 123 SST factory stuff and the 123 AMAX factory rounds for now. I know the AMAX is a target bullet but Hogs are targets right? I do have a bit of a hatred for them and I would never allow any other animal to suffer (I even feel bad when squirrels arent DRT during small game season, and they are tailed rats)

So now I have a Mildot scope and it has MOA clicks so I'm trying to get it to correlate.

[LR1955]

Sorry for the pause between posts, I lost the post when it was moved (I was linking instead of subing) I find that using 36in for the height is easy because I can see most of the way to the ground and If not I just divide everything in ranging in half for his chest/torso(18in). I do own several Rangefinders but I find them unneccesary most of the time because I cheat and put out stakes for ranges at my treestand. I learned this in Afghanistan from watching Talibs marking rocks with paint for mortar attacks and ambushes. They actually use a pace count or in real bad areas they tie a string with knots on it to setup distances. they did this so they could prep ambushes at night and still they were able to walk straight towards a star that they lined up with a paperclip on a hat (Smart bastards) I wondered why they always had kite string and paperclips wrapped inside their Pakuls.

You guys need to prep your stands' fighting positions better if you dont already, I put stakes in the ground with the huge numbers of the distance on them, hopefully the deer and hogs wont learn to read, because if they do I'm screwed. It may seem like cheating but it beats using a rangefinder. DM school teaches this too....to setup by ranging items and making a range card. I just made it easier.

The guy who started mixing Mils and MOA on the same scope must have been a Democrat, Clicks are useless to me unless I do the math (I have a minor in Applied Mathematics and I'm still too slow) I feel like looking that guy up , finding his oldest relative and kicking him in the gonads. I had to relearn everything in MOA a while back because I ended up buying a scope and spotter in MOA so they matched but then someone broke into my truck and liberated them from my oppression. The guy most have known about the laws because he took the upper off of my rifle and left the lower so he wouldn't get a firearm theft charge if he was caught. So I'm thinking either a 2 striker, a cop or a lawyer. I didnt get mad until I found my grandfathers K-Bar was missing (He carried it at D-Day, my dad in Hue City during Tet and Me in Kunar Province during the Fall of the Korengal valley. I put up a reward for it and my buddies offered one too. I didnt keep it in my truck, I was having a display made for it to put in my office and was on my way to carpenter friends house. I find the guy who did it, Hes not going to be happy. Anyway.....

I'm trying to come up with good holds for the 123 SST factory stuff and the 123 AMAX factory rounds for now. I know the AMAX is a target bullet but Hogs are targets right? I do have a bit of a hatred for them and I would never allow any other animal to suffer (I even feel bad when squirrels arent DRT during small game season, and they are tailed rats)

So now I have a Mildot scope and it has MOA clicks so I'm trying to get it to correlate.

Joker:

You are using one yard (36 inches) as a target size and not one meter. The mil relation formula doesn't care what unit of measure you use. If you use one yard as a target size, your distance will be in yards. If you use meters for the target size, your distance will come out in meters.

Target size in yards divided by your mil reading X 1000 = distance in yards. Target size in meters divided by mil reading X 1000 = distance in meters.

You are using yards as a target size and are getting yards as a distance so having minutes of angle increments works out perfectly.

There are two reasons why guys want mils as increments of elevation and windage. The first is that they are measuring their targets in meters and are using meters as a distance.

The second and probably more common is that they can use the reticle to see splash or holes in a target and have a bit easier time in adjusting elevation or windage because they see splash in mils.

You are obviously using yards as a measure because your target size is in yards. Your range will come out in yards using the mil relation formula.

Each mil = 3.375 minutes of angle. Round them up to 3.5 minutes for your use and you will be fine.

Now, take your come ups and what ever they are, divide by 3.5 (minutes) and that is how many mils to use for hold offs.

Not sure what the problem is but it really isn't an issue and shouldn't confuse anyone.

LR1955

[noone]

While I realize how much easier a Mil/Mil or Moa/Moa system would be for people, I have used Leupold's Mil/Moa system for so long I am used to it. I also use a computer program that tells me where each Mil demarcation in my scope intersects with the bullet's flight path. So with a Mil dot system, I have at least 5 impact point yardages. With the TMR reticle Leupold uses, I have 10 impact points to use.

The thing I think would REALLY make life easier would be if all my scopes had the reticle in the first focal plane rather than in the second focal plane. Because my reticles are in the second focal plane, only the crosshair maintains it's correct point of impact whenever the scope isn't on full magnification.

[customcutter]

Joker,

Hope you get your grandfathers K-bar back, and thanks for your service.