Howa Hinged Floor Plate Rifle Build

[Sixoeight]

I still have some more work to do on the stock. I think I am going to cut the end off at a slight angle to shorten it by an inch or two. I am also trying to figure out if I want to slim the whole forearm down but I am unsure of the best tool for it and if it is worth the effort.

It is coming together though




I also need to decide on a sealing finish. I have used boiled linseed oil and trueoil in the past. I still have some of both but they are several years old so I'm not sure if they are still good.

[stumpjumper3d]

To bad Howa will not do this. This has been asked for by the hunters since the gun came out. You are right about the Boyd stocks seems they just inlet 2x4`s.

[Sixoeight]

If Howa won't do it...I will

Updates:

I cut the magbox (made from the old magwell) down to fit between the action and the bottom metal in the Boyd's stock. And it works! I also tested the capacity and I am at 5+1 which is awesome. It did fit 6+1 but after filling down the mag box to the perfect size I can't quite get the 6th round in the mag.

I did run into some feeding issues as the feed ramp is made for a center feed mag and I have made it a staggered feed. It would work most of the time but completely hang up occasionally due to the bullet running into the receiver just to the side of the ramp. So I grabbed my needle files and added 2 mini ramps to point up the bullets into the main ramp. They were only missing it by maybe 1/16" so these additional ramps are quite small. I just reassembled it to test and it functions flawlessly even when running the action slowly.

Now I just need to address the action screws, bed the action, and finish the stock.

[Stevil]

sounds good so far, really really keen to see your action screw solution

[Sixoeight]

Stay tuned...

I have a plan and will post up the pictures.

[klr]

Good thinking on the feed ramps.

Will you be able to feed longer rounds? You'd likely have to throat your rifle, but seating the heavy bullets out .200" would give you room for more powder.

[BD264]

Here is what I use when I am shaping a gunstock.

http://www.nicholsontool.com/files/rasp/nicholson-18861n-10-half-round-second-cut-pattern-maker-s-cabinet-rasp-number-50.html

[Kswhitetails]

I'm glad to see your progress. I'm also interested in any thoughts you have on the miniaction stocks. I'll be ordering a pretty standard prarie hunter stock for my HB action that is incoming soon.

[Sixoeight]

Will you be able to feed longer rounds? You'd likely have to throat your rifle, but seating the heavy bullets out .200" would give you room for more powder.

Yes I absolutely can. I haven't measured it actually but the internal length of my magazine box is longer than the external length of the oem detachable magazine. So I have gained quite a bit of space. As for throating I will hold off for now. I don't currently reload so although that is part of my future plans it isn't urgent.

Here is what I use when I am shaping a gunstock.

http://www.nicholsontool.com/files/r...number-50.html

I might have to pick one up. Thanks. I'm mainly using a super cheap no name rasp with the spikes. I have some nice files but none aggressive enough to take big bites of the wood.

I'm glad to see your progress. I'm also interested in any thoughts you have on the miniaction stocks. I'll be ordering a pretty standard prarie hunter stock for my HB action that is incoming soon.

The Boyd's are probably the best option available at the moment if you don't mind reworking them a bit. Because it they use a "one size fits all" basic design in terms of the shape you end up with one size that fits none. But with some basic hand tools you can pretty easily slim down the wrist and fix some of the awkward areas. It is frustrating that Boyd's charges for everything now. Believe it or not it cost $10 more if you want them to skip putting finish on it even though they make every gun stock to order!

[rickt300]

Now we are getting somewhere!

[Sixoeight]

Now we are getting somewhere!

I am very excited to get this buttoned up!

Updates:



I slimmed up the forend a bit and cut a more aggressive angle at the end. I tried to make the angle of the heel but I did just eyeball it

I think it looks a lot better now than from the factory.



It's looks much more different in person. It will also darken up significantly when I apply the finish to it.

[murfvol]

That's really nice work. This is a fun project to follow.

[Taz575]

https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=iwasaki+files&button=search

These files are crazy for wood working, as fast as a rasp, but leave a very clean, smooth surface. They chew thru laminates very quickly, too I used to use them when making knife handles.

[Sixoeight]

That's really nice work. This is a fun project to follow.

Thank you. I may have to take a break from the project in August but I will try to finish it up fairly quickly!

https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=i...&button=search

These files are crazy for wood working, as fast as a rasp, but leave a very clean, smooth surface. They chew thru laminates very quickly, too I used to use them when making knife handles.

I ended up resorting to a Dremel oscillating tool. I remembered that I have it and I like to use the stuff I already have whenever possible haha but those do like like some fine files!

Update:

Here is a sneak peak of my action screw solution. I still have to do some work on the aluminum pillar block and I need another bit to finish inletting the stock for it but this should give an idea of my plan.





Once I get it inlet enough for the block to fit appropriately I will drill a through hole for the action screw and I will countersink it so that the fastener will sit flush or below the block surface on the other side. Then I will drill and tap the other side such that short screws can be used to hold the bottom metal in place. The bottom metal screws will be VERY close to the countersunk head of the action screws but I think it will fit. If it will not I have some other creative ideas.

Then I have to do it again for the front

[Sixoeight]

Hopefully no one minds that I use this as a build progress log and post small incremental updates. It is useful to post ideas as they progress to force myself to think it through and be sure I am not making any assumptions that will cause it to fail.

This isn't huge progress but it shows how I plan to use the aluminum pillar. I will epoxy this in place in the stock which is why is scored it up with crossing channels using a file so the epoxy get a good grip on the block. I can't have it coming loose.