Painting the rifle

[Swampfox]

Every hunting upper I have and my hunting lower is black I’m just thinking of getting away from black.

[A5BLASTER]

Been thinking of busying out the rustolem and doing a camo job on my 16 inch and my 12 inch pistol when it's finished.

[bj139]

Here is my painted chromoly barrel after two days. I found the run ridges were still soft and I could push them down with my fingernails.
They are not as noticeable now, especially on the muzzle.

[SDW]

If I may add 2 cents concerning brownell's alumi hyde, the cans should be warmed up a bit, shaken for like 5 minutes and clear nozzles after each coat and test spray on cardboard before the next coat. It is air cure but also can be baked at 195 for 2 hours. Done several things with it and did encounter a crappy nozzle. I think I reused the same nozzle from the original can on at least 2 different cans. I also sprayed brake cleaner through the nozzle after clearing and then hit with compressed air.

That confirms what I heard. That's why brownells sells spare nozzles by the handful (packs of 12). Plus a separate "clean-out" nozzle sold separately. I would keep a little cup full of lacquer thinner handy, and toss the nozzles into it after each coat, and swap on a new one.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/replacement-nozzles/replacement-nozzles-prod24779.aspx

p_084179002_1.jpg

[SDW]

Here is my painted chromoly barrel after two days. I found the run ridges were still soft and I could push them down with my fingernails.
They are not as noticeable now, especially on the muzzle.

If I had to guess, I'd say you tried to do it all in one coat? Or you just got too close with the nozzle right up there near the muzzle. In my experience it's best to do this kind of work in multiple coats, and don't expect to get full coverage on the first coat. It's okay to see a little metal through the first, bonding coat. Then wait a few minutes for the paint to flash off, and give it another light coat. Then repeat.

At least with an object this simple shape it would be super easy to just strip it off and try again. Not so true with something intricate like an AR handguard or receiver.

BTW, you said earlier that you used an "FDE solvent based spray can". I know what FDE stands for of course, but what did you mean by "solvent based" spray?

[bj139]

If I had to guess, I'd say you tried to do it all in one coat? Or you just got too close with the nozzle right up there near the muzzle. In my experience it's best to do this kind of work in multiple coats, and don't expect to get full coverage on the first coat. It's okay to see a little metal through the first, bonding coat. Then wait a few minutes for the paint to flash off, and give it another light coat. Then repeat.

At least with an object this simple shape it would be super easy to just strip it off and try again. Not so true with something intricate like an AR handguard or receiver.

BTW, you said earlier that you used an "FDE solvent based spray can". I know what FDE stands for of course, but what did you mean by "solvent based" spray?

Two coats. I did this to prevent rust on the steel barrel. I don't care if it is not a showroom finish. Camo is uneven anyway That is the point. I may camo it with some olive drab and black paint.

Solvent based means the pigment is dissolved in petroleum solvents in the spray can. It is not water based.

[SDW]

Two coats. I did this to prevent rust on the steel barrel. I don't care if it is not a showroom finish. Camo is uneven anyway That is the point. I may camo it with some olive drab and black paint.

Solvent based means the pigment is dissolved in petroleum solvents in the spray can. It is not water based.

Wow. I've never even heard of a water-based rattlecan paint. LOL I had to google it. I guess some specialty art paints are WB? That glob on the end would bug me. Hah. It'll probably wear off at some point just from use. Either that or when the paint fully cures you can shave it down with a razor blade. You should be GTG on the camo. Me personally I wouldn't use black as one of the colors. OD spray paints tend to be dark anyway. Maybe combine with brown? The brown camos I've seen from the bigger paint companies tends to be dark as well. But I don't know what kind of environment you plant to blend with. SE Penn? I live in San Diego so most all my stuff turns out desert color.

If you're serious about corrosion protection, some of the flat-finish paints don't do the best job as moisture barriers. But I'll bet you'll be fine so long as you don't abuse the rifle by taking it out in the rain and then just putting it away wet.

[bj139]

Two more photos after smoothing with a fingernail.

[grendelnubi]

I painted mine with Rustoleum. The wear is very good, all you need to do is repaint if you want to keep it prestige. If you want to strip it and paint it a different color, easy to do.

[Lastrites]

Take some sand paper to that barrel when it dries and lightly spray another coat. A few things done with Aluma hyde in fde and black, baked in an oven.

[derek45]

Walmart spray cans.



many years later...

[bj139]

Walmart spray cans.



many years later...

I like those. Great job.