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1:75 vs 1:8 - anybody tell the difference and if so , where?
Please explain if there is a difference.
Thanks,
Bob
Bob,
Depending on the quality of gun, ammunition, rest, weather conditions, range, and your ability to shoot you probably won't notice the difference. Or more importantly, not be able to tell whether the twist is the reason for the group size.
6.5's come in a range from 1:7 to 1:9 with the majority of drop-ins in the middle 1:8. I have shot a 1:7.5 Pac Nor 'Super Match' in 6.5x47 shooting 130gn bullets and got larger groups than 1:8 Kriegers, but am tempted to think it's the barrel quality rather than the twist. I've only had one faster than normal twist barrel in 6.5mm so we should not be generalizing to your situation. In 223 F Class I have used a slightly faster twist 1:7", than the normal 1:8", to stabilize the heaviest 90gn Berger bullets, but again results on target were a big yawn.
In 6.5mm Shilen recommends 1:7"-1:8" for bullets 130gn and heavier, and for lighter than 130gn, 1:8"-1:9".
In 300Blackout, in the early days the standard was 1:8" but is now 1:7" across the industry, to stabilize the heaviest 200-220gn subsonics.
The point being, faster twists to stabilize heavier bullets and slower twists if exclusively shooting lighter bullets is the general principle, but there can be a cost to spinning bullets too fast. Over-stabilized rounds resist pointing to the target after apogee, so for long range shots this means wider groups. Plus any imperfections in the bullet get magnified the faster you spin it, again larger groups. In extreme cases overspinning a bullet has it coming apart somewhere downrange before the target. LeHigh now includes advice on spin RPM for their 30cal Blackout type bullets after they were coming apart in shooters' suppressors, damaging them.
To be fair, the difference you are considering is slight and if anything favors heavier bullets. Up to you but I doubt you'll notice any difference (all other things being equal).
In a grendel couldn't tell you. In .223 I can tell you with a 80gr bullet or heavier I prefer faster than a 1:8 twist as I have experienced destabilization when pushing the projectile past 3000fps. This has lead me to a thought of math vs reality.
My experience shows a difference, yet I shoot with guys who are successful. The only difference is the barrel manufacturer, so there is where the question arises. Am I REALLY 1:8 or is it slower.... or is theirs really 1:8 and is really faster?
I came up with 2 solutions and ran them both. I switched barrels to a krieger 1:7.7 and issue went away.
I slowed down to 2900fps and issue went away.
Comparing the results of the 2 contrasting by effort and cost, simply adjusting my load was a far more efficient solution. The extra 100fps gained me nearly nothing on target, well within error of shooter.
What did I learn? If I'm asking the question of 1:7 vs 1:8 just stop. Spend more time in load development, going the other route will put an unnecessary dent in your wallet that you would be far happier with putting towards an optic.
Appreciate the knowledge gentlemen. I have my own thoughts on the matter and know I am not in the "top of the shooting class" so I came here to see if those with more shooting time had an overwhelming yes or no.
And that .25 inch gain at 300 yards will be negated by a squirrel farting in the woods 30 feet away from the target. Lots of stuff we obsess over don't really matter in practical application.
My Grendel Boltaction has a 1:8.4 22 inch and does fine out to 600 yards with 130gr Berger. I usually go with faster twist but when offered a good deal on an Obermeyer barrel why not take it.
I have a couple that I wish were a little faster twist for heavier bullets but to me I can run the 90gr bullets in the 1:8 22-243 27 inch barrel but really have to stand on the gas to get acceptable accuracy.
In selecting between those for the Grendel I would go 7.5 twist especially if going with a shorter barrel.
Berger twist rate calculator is fun to play with and can be informative
It's also a good reminder that twist rate and stability relate to a bullet's length, not its weight. Oftentimes, weight is a good enough indicator of length but not always.
The last part in particular. Personally I run 1 / 9 in 20", and run 1/8 in everything shorter - and have been happy. I have little desire to run 1/ 7.5, but I suppose if you are planning on running 140's, in a 12", it would matter.
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